EV denotes a f-stop and shutter speed combination - an exposure. It's not a fixed amount of light.
LV for Light Value denotes an amount of light.
A meter measures LV, and if you set an ISO, then you can find the suggested exposure for that amount of light. Because the LV and EV scales are similar-looking integers, it's easy to think that the meter is measuring EV, and it might even be labeled EV, but it isn't; it measures LV.
This is the same thing as what the other responders are saying, just phrased differently.
For your Pentax meters the EV is really LV and is equal to the EV only for ISO 100.
Both the Pentax Spot Meter and the Pentax Digital Spot Meter are based in ISO 100 regardless of the set ISO. So if one takes the 1 degree reading and uses the Zone System adjustments then the f/stop and shutter speed ONLY are correct.
EV denotes a f-stop and shutter speed combination - an exposure. It's not a fixed amount of light.
LV for Light Value denotes an amount of light.
A meter measures LV, and if you set an ISO, then you can find the suggested exposure for that amount of light. Because the LV and EV scales are similar-looking integers, it's easy to think that the meter is measuring EV, and it might even be labeled EV, but it isn't; it measures LV.
Just turn the dial until the thingy lines up. That’s your exposure.
Here's the definition of EV from the Focal Dictionary of Photographic Technologies:
"Function of the relative aperture and exposure time settings of a camera such that EV = 3.322 x log10(n2/t) where n is the relative aperture and t is the exposure time in seconds."
In other words, EV is a concise expression of the amount of exposure you give the film or sensor; it says nothing about how the film or sensor responds to the exposure. Thus, strictly speaking, ISO setting is irrelevant to EV.
Now the confusion. Many common digital meters, the kinds that measure incident readings and reflected, will show a change in the measured EV reading when the ISO is changed.
Just turn the dial until the thingy lines up. That’s your exposure.
I have much sympathy with both POVs. I threw away a Gossens Digisix: it infuriated me for several reasons, but one was that the sole visual indication of light intensity (EV) was different depending what ISO you selected. Now I just use the two red arrows in my M6 viewfinder, and to hell with it.
And because of that you must use different EV value for the same scene brightness if you change the film speed.
I have much sympathy with both POVs. I threw away a Gossens Digisix: it infuriated me for several reasons, but one was that the sole visual indication of light intensity (EV) was different depending what ISO you selected. Now I just use the two red arrows in my M6 viewfinder, and to hell with it.
Exactly.
Here's the definition of EV from the Focal Dictionary of Photographic Technologies:
"Function of the relative aperture and exposure time settings of a camera such that EV = 3.322 x log10(n2/t) where n is the relative aperture and t is the exposure time in seconds."
In other words, EV is a concise expression of the amount of exposure you give the film or sensor; it says nothing about how the film or sensor responds to the exposure. Thus, strictly speaking, ISO setting is irrelevant to EV. EDIT: But see Chan Tran's point below.
And because of that you must use different EV value for the same scene brightness if you change the film speed.
I have much sympathy with both POVs. I threw away a Gossens Digisix: it infuriated me for several reasons, but one was that the sole visual indication of light intensity (EV) was different depending what ISO you selected. Now I just use the two red arrows in my M6 viewfinder, and to hell with it.
I expect that all this confusion arises because too many people have messed up their thought processes by spending too much time with the Zone System and thinking about candles and how much light is coming from the moon!
For a large portion of the photographic world though, the film speed is set once and all that is needed from the meter is an indication of what setting combinations should be used on the camera.
I have blissfully managed to spend my entire photographic career ignoring EV completely. All I need is a meter that reads consistently and linearly and some set of calculating rings/wheels to find a set of possible aperture and shutter speed combinations for the value I choose to base my exposure on.
In other words, I don't really care what the numerical value that the meter shows on its display is as long as I can use it as input for the exposure calculator.
Heck, I could probably get by with a meter that just gave me shutter speeds for f/32. I'm rarely a stop one way or the other from there anyway.
I use Pentax digital spot meters and like the ability to read small areas of the scene and the simplicity of the exposure calculator.
Filters get read through or the factor gets applied after deciding on the initial exposure. For what it's worth, one can use the exposure calculator rings on the meter to apply the filter factor as well; just twist the LV ring by the appropriate number of stops or use an adjusted EI for a given filter (Sirius, I don't really understand what problem you had...).
Bellows extension factors and adjustments for reciprocity failure I carry with me as tables. Again, a kind of exposure calculator that I can just plug in a value and read the adjusted result. My exposure record has all the steps needed to find the final exposure in the proper order: initial metered exposure without any changes, then filter factor, bellows extension factor and reciprocity adjustment. At no point in my determination of a final exposure do I concern myself with EV...
Best,
Doremus
Wot Chan Tran done did sez! View attachment 304004==> For your Pentax meters the EV is really LV and is equal to the EV only for ISO 100.
Both the Pentax Spot Meter and the Pentax Digital Spot Meter are based in ISO 100 regardless of the set ISO. So if one takes the 1 degree reading and uses the Zone System adjustments then the f/stop and shutter speed ONLY are correct. That setting is then transferred to the camera and the resulting EV is used to adjust for filters, extension tube, or bellows. Do not take the spot meter reading EV and make the filter et al adjustments on the meter because those adjustments are based on ISO 100 and not on the ISO set on the meter. I learned this at Alan Ross' class at Yosemite when I lost a series of photographs there because I made the mistake of using the EV instead of the exposure itself.
That is because you are not using a camera such as Hasselblad which allows on to set the exposure and adjust the shutter speed and aperture ganged together showing the EV. Once set, then one can adjust the EV for filters, then change the shutter speed and aperture with one movement. You really need to get a good camera [READ: Hasselblad] it understand.
When I used the EV numbers from the Pentax Digital Spot Meter and the adjusted for the Orange or R23 filters the exposures were severely under exposed using ISO 400 film because of design assumptions by Pentax. When I instead used the shutter speed and aperture on the Hasselblad alone or adjusted for the filters, the expose was correct.
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