Sal Santamaura
Member
Depending on frame size, even a 4-3/4" roll film could meet the definition of large format at the Large Format Forum....a small format context...120mm...

Depending on frame size, even a 4-3/4" roll film could meet the definition of large format at the Large Format Forum....a small format context...120mm...
Well, just by selecting just one developer and alleged speed point, there is an automatic skewing toward a particular end. Like I said, that might make sense as a commercial service, but inherently excludes an awful lot of pertinent details, and therefore simply cannot be objective in a wider manner. It is itself a form of optimization towards their own choice of standardized development, which potentially differs from one lab to another. In other words, if someone wants Adrian to process their film, then take his advice about how to expose it. Another lab service, with different processing machinery using a different developer, might reasonably set the parameters differently.
FWIW, that is where the money has always been.As grating as it may be for some of the more hardcore film guys out there, those users are where the money is right now, and if you want to stay in business, follow the money.
Painters aren't concerned with which chemicals make up their oils as much as to how pleasing the colors look to them. For people without darkrooms like myself, I'm really concerned with the basic look of the result as well, in this case film. There are pixel peepers in film as in digital and its easy to miss the forest from the trees as you can get diverted analyzing the minutiae of any craft.I actually have that “how do I expose this?” Conversation with clients all. the. time. While your point is valid and well taken, it’s also not really reflective of the reality of the vast majority of film users. Yes, there are shooters just like you who want to do what you do, and those users should put the work in themselves in their own darkroom and ask questions pertinent to how to get there, but at the same time, there are a huge number of users that barely know how to use a film camera that are trying to use film and don’t give a flying you know what about much of the technical minutiae, they just want a different and fun experience, and easy to remember basic advise.
As grating as it may be for some of the more hardcore film guys out there, those users are where the money is right now, and if you want to stay in business, follow the money.
I actually have that “how do I expose this?” Conversation with clients all. the. time....
...there are a huge number of users that barely know how to use a film camera that are trying to use film and don’t give a flying you know what about much of the technical minutiae, they just want a different and fun experience, and easy to remember basic advise.
As grating as it may be for some of the more hardcore film guys out there, those users are where the money is right now, and if you want to stay in business, follow the money.
I notice you sell both Tri-X and HP5+. When your customers ask which one is "better", what do you tell them?
Painters aren't concerned with which chemicals make up their oils as much as to how pleasing the colors look to them. For people without darkrooms like myself, I'm really concerned with the basic look of the result as well, in this case film. There are pixel peepers in film as in digital and its easy to miss the forest from the trees as you can get diverted analyzing the minutiae of any craft.
Never understood what people mean by "watercolour grain" with HP5/PMK.
If you draw a subjective conclusion that is directionally at odds with proven photographic science/theory, and you know there are several places in the test where things can go wonky on you, the first thing to do is check your results,
So to simplify matters can I pose this question: If I expose both films to the same scene within seconds of each other cameras that are identical in terms of shutter speed and aperture and take it to a lab in the U.K. where one developer, ID11 is used and each film is given the time Ilford recommend for each film, namely 7:30, then when handed back to me there should be no difference in the negatives?
I just want to find out if under the conditions I mention above I will see no difference in the two sets of negatives so other than price there nothing to distinguish the two films.
If there is something to distinguish under the conditions I describe then what is/are these features?
As I saId before, I like a lot of "man in the street" film users seek the truth about various films' features and if possible seek as simple as possible explanation of why these difference arise so you are right a H&D curve is important and an explanation of what it shows but beyond that I for one may not have the time left on this earth to devote more time to the kind of in-depth knowledge that you speak of but I do desire to know if what I see on these test videos and here I am not including Greg's but only the ones that did as I described and shot various street scenes under the same lighting etc reveal a true difference and if not why not
This analogy that pops up frequently in photography discussions, and it usually just shows that photographers don't interact with other artists much. Many, if not most painters are absolutely concerned with the chemical makeup, frequently you'll encounter discussions rivaling the debates over stop bath concerning; pigments, (such as where the pigments come from and how they're refined, as well as the amount/ratio of pigment to inert materials), older vs newer paints (some pigments are no longer available commercially) hues vs true colors, binders and mediums, etc. There are many painters that create their own paints out of raw materials, just as photographers who are unsatisfied with commercial chemistry mix their own out of raw components.Painters aren't concerned with which chemicals make up their oils as much as to how pleasing the colors look to them. For people without darkrooms like myself, I'm really concerned with the basic look of the result as well, in this case film. There are pixel peepers in film as in digital and its easy to miss the forest from the trees as you can get diverted analyzing the minutiae of any craft.
I was simply trying to turn the discussion of what were these two apparent differences in shadow detail and contrast into what would be the practical outcomes for users. Those who may wish to get an opinion on outcomes of both films when they use the same camera for both and take shots in the same or very similar and submit these to a lab that develops with D76 to the same time will also benefit by getting a feel for the likely outcome for each film.
… and process “normally “ too.I'd say the practical outcome is you shoot both at box speed. They'll both deliver totally acceptable results. We're talking about differences that not many people will notice unless they take a minute or two and really look at it. If you like a little more punch, shoot 400TX, if you like a little less, shoot HP5, assuming of course the lab uses the same contrast when digitizing each, if not, then what you'll get back is a crapshoot.
Photography is a little worse because the science is a black box to most, but still the same thing.
Gosh, Adrian. Don't exaggerate this. Yes, you have a valid viewpoint. But so do I. I'm well aware of all these young startup film shooters who want to be cool and buy a classic old Nikon or one of those fun cheap plastic cameras.
I wouldn't mind reading them.About 20 years ago Geoffrey Crawley did two articles in BJP about comparing 400 speed films. Although some films have changed since then, or disappeared, there was some good description about how to make such comparison. The articles were freely available on the web then but I can't find them now. I do have pdf files of them which I could put somewhere if there is interest. I assume that since they were freely available that this would not infringe the rights of the original publisher. Is that correct?
Nowadays, since most of thse big labs have retired for one reason or another, there are a lot of niche opportunities like yours.
I think I may have seen that Crawley 400 ISO film review floating around as a pdf, unfortunately I don't have a link to hand.I wouldn't mind reading them.
A pro buys the best stuff he needs to do business and gets on with business. He doesn't sit around arguing about his materials, pixel peeps, etc with other people, especially amateurs. The hard part is finding customers and selling and keeping the cash flowing and making payroll, like in any other business. The last thing on his mind is how many grains per square CM between HP5 and Tri-X.Any oil painter who doesn't care what chemicals, pigments, and solvents are involved, and only cares about the final color is doomed to failure. It doesn't matter if you're a house painter or painting a canvas. Informed "fat" versus "lean" layering is crucial. Otherwise layers crack and peel as they cure at different rates of expansion and contraction. That's part of the ABC's, one of the first things to learn, and it's one of the worst analogies I can think of. Based on fundamentals like this, I tend to divide house painters into two categories : the first category I call real pro painters, and they're an endangered species. In the second category are what I term bums, drunks, school dropouts, and lead poisoning addicts, and they're abundant. But the ones who do things right the will save you a ton of money in the long run.
The big labs are gone because there are not the huge volumes of film around that can keep them running. Big labs need big film through put.
Yes, niche market processing is the way to go today.
Personally, I agree with Adrian Bacon, follow the money. They are the customers you want not the head wreckers that will argue, ad nauseam, the benefits of X, Y or Z.
When I had a shop/lab, (this is back in 1990s) every Saturday there would be a steady stream of guys (yes it was always men) into the shop, they never bought anything, just looking, BUT there was always a contest to see who knew the most. I was asked all sorts of obscure questions and eventually got fed up (and it interfered with my work from paying customers) that I told them that I was charging a fee per question. That solved that.
It appears that both articles were once linked to in a Photrio thread. The thread is still there dated about 2012 or so but the url has sadly gone as have many useful urls from that timeI think I may have seen that Crawley 400 ISO film review floating around as a pdf, unfortunately I don't have a link to hand.
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