Tri-X and Xtol

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I've looked over some negatives and decided to do a little testing, one of those things that can drive you nuts. I looked at the scan from an Xtol developed Tri-X and one from 5222 developed in ID-11 and the latter has more sharpness, better tone and just looks better on average. I looked at five different ones of the same scenes to compare under the same lighting conditions and to my eyes the 5222 looked better-so did Tri-X with HC-110. It's not that Xtol is that bad. On the contrary, it's rather good but just doesn't look as good as the others.

Broke down, it's probably a toss of the coin. They all do well but some look a bit better. I'll continue on with Xtol and see how things go next time.

I'm extremely surprised. But since you scan your negatives and I print mine on silver gelatin paper to look at results, I'd be surprised if we came to the same conclusion also.
The comparison to Double-X isn't really valid, since it's a different film. But your comparison to Tri-X in HC-110 is. To make sure you're comparing apples to apples, negatives of both types need to be processed to the same contrast. If the Xtol is processed to a lower contrast, you need to boost that contrast to get similar tonality, which would alter the way that grain looks. If a negative is much denser in the highlights, you will have bigger grain clumps making up the extra density in the highlights, which also increases grain. The only way to get a fair comparison is to process the negatives to identical contrast. That's one thing I might look into.

One roll isn't usually going to tell you what's going on. Often it takes a while to find the sweet spot with films and developers, for me it usually takes about 5 or six rolls to fully understand what's going on, in different lighting scenarios.

Finally, I don't know what scanner you use, but usually the more budget type scanners like the Epson flatbeds and such, don't have enough resolution to actually resolve the grain, meaning that you'd see an approximation of the grain. Usually the Nikon 9000 series, the Hasselblad/Imacon scanners, and most drum scanners will have enough (actual) resolution where you can actually see the grain.

Just some thoughts off the top of my head. But at the same time, if HC-110 works so well for you, maybe it's a good idea to just continue using that.
 
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ColColt

ColColt

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The density in the highlights were good with being able to read print through it so, not overly dense by any means. As for scanning I have the Epson 8200i-not the Nikon quality but not too shabby. I have lots of film and quite a bit of this developer so, it will get used again...and again.

HC-110 works well but, I did want to try Xtol since I'd read such good things about it.
 

mshchem

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I have been using XTOL since it came out. I have a friend that runs a shop and he gave me a sample, it had some Kodak Experimental number on it. Love at first try. I have used in in hard rubber sheet film tanks, replenishing. Used it in small daylight tanks 1:1 , one shot. I finally broke down and bought a used Jobo CPP2. I found using full strength works well with the Jobo due to low solution volumes. If you keep it in absolutely full bottles, plastic or glass it will keep over a year as a stock.

It's a powder so it's a pain to make. I enjoy fooling around mixing chemicals. I have XTOL powder that I bought in a panic several years ago, I am using packages that are 5 or 6 years old no problem (Kept dry and cool and dark) For 1 shot processing it's great. For someone who doesn't want to fiddle with powders, take a pass and buy a Kodak or Ilford liquid developer.
Mike
 

Rolleijoe

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At the beginning, Xtol was sold as 1 and 5 liters packages. Then they had some serious issues with 1 liter packaging and Kodak stop making it.
That's when I used to use it, no problem at all. Living in CT working in Manhattan l was always shooting something.
 

ericdan

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I dilute it into 2.5 liters instead of 5L.
I just adjust my dilution with water accordingly when I develop film.
I keep it in plastic bottles without any issues.
You can always drop part of the leader into the developer to see if it's still working before running an entire roll through it.
 
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