For Sale Tons of Kodak (and Fuji) 35mm Motion Picture Film available

Oxleyroad said:

Dr, don't use washing powder!

Washing soda - found in the same area as laundary detergent at the supermarket. It's not the clear soda crystal stuff in a clear bag but a finer white powder in a white bag. Last time I bought some it was <$3 for 1kg bag. As for the coffee, the cheaper the home brand the better. You'll need some vitamin C as well. Where you get that in Adelaide is up to you.

The Kodak vision processes well in caffenol.

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Duly noted, thanks.
I did check my box of regular laundry powder (Earth Choice) and it actually listed ingredients, first up was "Sodium Carbonate (dense)". Not sure what they mean by 'dense', maybe Anhydrous? But there was a whole lot of other crap in there too, as there usually is. (Even Woolies' homebrand said 'with enzyme action', I'm not sure I want them enzymes drinking my coffee).

At any rate, I'll probably buy some pure stuff, I'm investigating other chemicals for home-made emulsions at the moment, cheapest so far is Auschems, 500g for $13 (their silver nitrate is $50 for 25g which is much better than a local shop which has 25g for $125 in analytical-grade). Meanwhile, where can you get 1kg of white powder for $3? (besides out the back of Flinders Street Station?)

For coffee I originally bought the cheapest in my local IGA, which was Brasilia non-instant. But then I tried it and liked it, so instead I've got Woolies' homebrand instant coffee, even cheaper than International Roast. Is there a direct inverse-correlation between taste/price and caffenol suitability? I couldn't imagine anything that tastes worse than International Roast, so anything cheaper than that must taste worse (if that's possible) and might be better for caffenol?

Hello, I am interested in #82 or #83.
Thank you.
Regards
Jan

Woolies/Coles home brands are my instant coffees of choice for making an image on film. I have never tried to drink it. I'll take a picture tonight of the NaCO3 that I use from the supermarket.

Washing soda is sold here in the US under the Arm & Hammer brand, in the laundry aisle in supermarkets for use as a laundry booster. Borax is sold the same way.

I would think that most cheap coffees would be the same. Supposedly better coffees are made from arabica, and that the cheaper robusta contains more caffeic acid. I don't drink coffee and developing film is the only use I possibly have for coffee, so I wouldn't know. I use the Nescafé instant brand to make caffenol.

Here's the stuff I use.

Oxleyroad said:

Here's the stuff I use.

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Bam, found that exact one, thanks. But $3.90.
(At the new Coles on Churchill Road, if any fellow rAdelaideans want some).
Looks like I'm making me some caffenol to try on the weekend.

To try to steer this thread sort-of back onto topic though, what's the grain/resolution difference in processing a colour-film as B+W (with whatever), or doing it properly in C41?
(as much as "properly" can be defined putting Cine film through C41, and as much a you can compare silver grain with dye-clouds)

Dr Croubie, I think the agitation method, age of the film and speed you shoot it at as just as much of an effect on the amount of grain as anything else.

I've done quite a few color films as BW before, more C41 then ECN2, but I found it all turns out about the same to some degree. I'm sure if you did a lower grain develoer and used a much gentler agitation method it would probably reduce the grain to some degree.

I've not experimented too much in that area with the film I got from this thread, but I am curious to see how caffenol would do both normal and semi to full stand vs Xtol, D76 etc. I'm also curious to see how Diafine does, maybe twice through A and B.

I know the 106f C41 for 3 min method I posted seemed to make the film grainier, but that could have been how I exposed it or my C41 chems not being at their best or temps not being consistent or my agitation so who knows.

I don't know if it will make a differnence but I do know that films like Kentmere 400 have a dramatically less amount of grain when you agitate with a much gentler motion and less often.

On the ECN2 side, I was trying to find a formula I found online that was for a home made ECN2 developer that was supposed to combat fogging and help you get the best more accurate color out of cine films. But of course I've not been able to find it. And then I'm not sure if some of the films on here could get what they needed to make it due to location.

I don't know if it will help the thread bu here are two similar shots (one I think I posted here already) I've done of similar subjects, one using D76 and one using standard C41 (102f for 3.5min) using the Vision2 250D I got here...



And then the same film from the Horizon 202, also C41


I think the grainiest of these three is the BW (D76 1+1 normal dev cycle) and the 202 shot (C41, 106f for 3 mins method).

First photo : fuji f250d in BW developer Fomadon W27 near a only fixer patch
Second : right side just fixerr , left side is a piece of film that I hold in multivitamin and Ibuprofen . Don't laugh please. Some silver spot formed
Third : unexposed film full processed in fomadon lqr and fomadon W27

I want remove the film's yellow filter and dye mask and keep only silver image.

F4user - I like the spots on the middle shot left piece of film. Very "lomo" and a look I'd replicate myself for some films occasionally. What did you do to get that to happen?

It looks like the film has a very similar brown/yellow base tone to the Kodak 250D I have. I have no idea how to get rid of that or reduce it's effect in any kind of developer or chemicals, color or B/W. But if there's a way to reduce it's effect even a little, it means less work for the scanner to penetrate the film, thus less grain.

Perhaps if you reduce the temperature of your developer and do more of a semi-stand development, that might reduce some of the base fogging? I've already read that Adonal/Rodinal are good at dealing with fog and that you can add a little Borax into the developer to reduce the fog a bit more. I've not tried this. I wonder if the borax would also work in C41 developer to help cut the base's coloring back a bit...

There's also Edwal Orthazite anti-fog for BW developing which might help. I believe you have to compensate when shooting or when developing for the speed difference it makes. I've not used it so I can't speak from experience.

My stash (and another's from Oz) of film has landed safely

Thanks Marc.

Great to hear Oxleyroad!


Also a PSA: Clean your tanks after processing remjet backed film.