For Sale Tons of Kodak (and Fuji) 35mm Motion Picture Film available

[Terry Christian]

My negs are currently pretty much indistinguishable from the raw film, except I can barely discern images. Posted here, the negs would look completely black. I'll try removing much more remjet later today. I think the film needs a longer hot alkaline soak, and some elbow grease.

 

[Terry Christian]

Update:

Here's a quick bathroom shot of the Vision 500T negs, just so you can see how impenetrable they are. Just above the sink are four incandescent bulbs. I just soaked the negs again in warm baking soda water, about 1 TBSP for a two-reel tank, then tried to remove the remjet after heavily shaking for about a minute. The rinse is clear and the remaining remjet doesn't budge. The remjet side is bluish-black, and the emulsion side is a light pea green. I've stabilized them now and hung them up to dry to see if there's any change in scanning ability.

I'm motivated to clip a few inches each off the other two cans I have (different emulsions), just to try to remove the remjet from them to see if they're equally stubborn.

 

[R Paul]

Is number 40 or 41 available still?
Thanks
Rob

 

[supreme_magnetic]

PM sent for #46 if available.

 

[R Paul]

pm for film

PM sent for no. 38 if available

 

[F4user]

Don't ask for # 82, 83 & 88 i just took it from post office.
Thanks Mark.

 

[alienmeatsack]

Terry, those are indeed quite dark. The remjet should be obvious if it is still on there, it's a little more flat/chalky feeling then the exposed base is.

You might have to cut off a short strip, kept in the dark, developed in BW and then fixed to get a clear base w no image, then do the remjet removal to see if any comes off. If it does and you end up with a short clear strip with only the Kodak encoding on the edges, then you know that something went wrong in your "black" strip you did before. If not, then it's possible the film is fogged... It's also possible that the film is just bad on the outer frames and if you remove say 3-5', the rest is ok.

I've used a few different cinema films and I've never had any that the remjet didn't come off easily. Usually if your rinse after the baking soda + 100f water goes dark grey/black and then clears up only leaving film base tint rinsing out, then what you have in your hand is just the film.

I've not cracked open my 500T roll yet to test it, I've only done the 250D which has been good thus far. I may try opening the 500T and cutting off a leader pece and trying the above test on it to see what I get so we can help nail down the issue.

 

[alienmeatsack]

Also, for those looking for ways to develop these ECN2 films in C41 and get more accurate results with less grain, I found a method posted on Flickr that the guy seems to think is pretty solid. I will try this myself this weekend. I assume this method is expecting fresh chemicals but should work with slightly exhausted ones as well.

His method is found here, and here's a summary:
- Heat Developer and Blix to 106f/41.1C
- Develop at 106f/41.1c for exactly 3 minutes, aggitating for 30 seconds then 4 twisty inversions every 30 seconds.
- Start developer pour out around 2:50 so that you have hit 3 minutes your film is ready to be rinsed.
- Rinse for 1 minute.
- Blix at 106f/41.1c for 6.5 minutes with inversions every 30 seconds.
- Rinse for 4 minutes or for as long as you feel comfortable. I tend to shake up and rinse my films until the water is clear or the smell of bleach has lessened.
- Soak in warm water (100f) and baking soda mix for 5 minutes. He uses 3 tspns for 500ml of water for his, I like to use 1 tblspn.
- Remove from soak and remove from reel, placing into water bath or under running water (trying to keep it around 100f I assume) and finger squeegee and repeat until no more remjet appears to come off.
- Rinse until you are happy its clean, stabilize/photoflo and hang to dry.

Also suggested was if you get the super dark negatives as you did Terry, try reblixing. And for removal of remjet, 20 Mule Team Borax was also suggested.

The guys results are very nice, way less grainy then my results thus far. So I am going to try this 106F method this weekend on some of my film to see what I get.

Hope this helps for anyone here who's bought or is buying some of these cinema films! Make sure to read the whole conversation at Flickr, it has lots of sample images and more detail.

 

[pbromaghin]

106 f? Interesting.

 

[Terry Christian]

Okay, I hate to say it, because it defies logic, but I'm starting to think the film I have is fogged, or at least the end pieces that I've tested. And I really hate to post this here, because I don't want to malign mweintraub's cinema film sale, but others have been posting their results here and the cinema film processing thread elsewhere seems to have ground to a halt. But anyway...
This afternoon, after reading alienmeatsack's replies, I loaded unexposed lengths of EXR100T and Vision 200T into a Paterson tank, and soaked them in a borax solution to dissolve as much remjet as I could. The water was charcoal-grey. I then developed them for five minutes. I had the dregs of some DD-X to use up, so I added a bit of HC-110 concentrate to it, just to ensure I'd have plenty of developing action. After fixing, I wiped the film with a wet sponge and got off more remjet. However, even after all this, the film was still rather charcoal-grey (not absolute black like my previous attempts), so I did one more borax bath just for good measure. At the end of it all, the 200T was just as opaque as ever, and I could actually see my fingers through the EXR100T, even though it was still mostly dark. I know developing happened, because I could see faint surge marks around the sprocket holes if I held the film up to a bright light.

I'm at a loss as to what to do next, short of asking to send the film back. It seems highly unlikely that all three of my rolls would be fogged, but I can't think of a single thing I could be doing wrong in processing this.

 

[pbromaghin]

It sounds to me like you got fucked up film. Maybe exposed before putting back into the can. That's a risk we take buying this stuff. I am fully ready for any of the 3 reels I am buying to be bad. That's part of the risk of buying this stuff. I hope mine is good, but am ready for it to be bad.

 

[alienmeatsack]

FWIW, I did a strip test with my Vision2 500T purchased from here and got pretty much normal results. I just clipped a chunk of leader that had partly been exposed and partly not, did a quick run through some Dektol at 1+3 for 3 or so minutes and fixed it. The base is a bit tan/brown but that is partly due to the BW method I used to develop it and partly due to age and partly from not rinsing like normal but it seems to otherwise work ok.



It is entirely possible you did get a bad one that had been exposed when puting back into the can or similar. That sadly is part of the downfalls of film like this. And like (there was a url link here which no longer exists) said is one of the risks of buying this stuff at such a low price. IMHO if you get any other rolls and even 1 is good it's still cheaper then anything I've ever seen for any bulk films. With that said, if you thin it truely is bad, give the OP a shout. He's a really nice guy and I'd bet he will do his best to work out the deal with you.

 

[alienmeatsack]

Results from my roll of Vision2 500T are coming later today for those who want to see it. I shot it around 320 to account for the age, no filter, in my Horizon 202 at sunrise so I'd get a sweeping range of exposure to test it. The film looks nearly identical to the V2 250D I posted photos from previously.

I used the 106f 3min method with nearly fresh chemicals.

 

[romanaze]

Hello,
I am interested in # 82 or #83.
Please let me know if is still available.
Regards
Jan

 

[mweintraub]

Terry, I've gotta run, but I'll message you a little later to discuss the films.

Hello,
I am interested in # 82 or #83.
Please let me know if is still available.
Regards
Jan

I'm sorry, those are sold. Check the spreadsheet online to see what's still available. I might have some pending not noted on the list yet.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PDOqFVJslIXroZGO4OEug2GcMhrdm3VULoaGnrZCWyU/edit?usp=sharing

 

[alienmeatsack]

Here are a few shots taken this morning at sunrise using a Horizon 202 and some of the Vision2 500T I purchased from this thread. Developed using the 106f/3min method I mentioned above.

I think they are a bit under exposed and I think this 3min method at 106F, at least for me, seems to have made things grainier. I did a roll of 250D as well and it was more grainy then the stuff I did normally. So I don't know if that method works well.





Only adjustment made was to sharpen the images post scan. I think they def need some pop or something as they are a bit flat considering how vibrant the colors actually were this morning.

 

[alienmeatsack]

6 more rolls of the stuff arrived here today. 3 are mine and 3 are for my friend.

I have so much of this stuff I feel like I need to do some experimentation with it since it's like a never ending supply.

 

[Dr Croubie]

Only adjustment made was to sharpen the images post scan. I think they def need some pop or something as they are a bit flat considering how vibrant the colors actually were this morning.

Well they certainly look decent, but yeah, a bit muted. If it's 500T shot in daylight, did you have any colour-correcting filters when taking?
Maybe try a bit of white-balance adjusting post-scan, nothing that you can't also do with a colourhead. If that doesn't work there are always digital contrast and saturation controls, but I'm kinda interested to see what the film can do without them (until my rolls get to me in Sept).
I'm still not sure if I'm going to just scan mine or RA4 them, my skills in both are about the same.

 

[alienmeatsack]

Dr Croubie, I didn't use any filters when shooting that roll. The goal was to see how it behaved, if it was still good, what speed it shot at vs box speed, and to see how it did in bright extreme light as well as darker stuff thanks to the swing lens getting a little of everything in one shot. Most of the frames were exposed at approx 320 ISO give or take, and my shutter speed/aperture were adjusted to try and keep it somewhat within that range. When I metered, I metered both into the sunrise as well as off to the darker parts and then picked something middle ground.

I've shot 500T before but not 10 years expired and never during the magic hour of sunrise.

I do plan on using some warming filters next and shooting for some brighter typical daytime, and am hoping to find someplace with a wider range of colors to see where things fall in the color spectrum.

FWIW, the film converts to BW wonderfully and with some minor tweaks looks really great where the grain mixes with the shot.

 

[pbromaghin]

That 500T has a lot less grain than I expected. There are some simply awful examples on flickr - all blue and grainy. It would be interesting to see it shot with correcting filters.

My film arrived today! I have to figure out the logistics of spooling from 400 ft reels and then testing for exposure and development. I am several months behind in my processing and am considering prohibiting myself from shooting any of this until the backlog is cleared.

This is really exciting. A couple years ago, I could never have imagined doing something so crazy as buying an enormous amount of expired color movie film that nobody could process for me. Thank you, APUG for the courage and knowledge to do this!

 

[F4user]

Alienmeatsack do you have xtol developer ? Do you want to make an BW test again ?
I wonder if hidroquinone based developer make the brown mask. I also did a test on my Fuji F250D and unexposed to light zone turn dense brown. The developer used is Fomadon LQR and is hidroquinone based. I will try to find a BW developer without hidroquinone to see if I can get clear "white" without brown mask.

 

[wblynch]

Coffee?

 

[Dr Croubie]

Coffee?

I was going to say that, except doesn't caffenol stain it brown anyway?
(genuine question, not rhetorical, I've got some coffee and washing powder and was going to try my first B+W caffenol this weekend or next)

 

[Oxleyroad]

Dr, don't use washing powder!

Washing soda - found in the same area as laundary detergent at the supermarket. It's not the clear soda crystal stuff in a clear bag but a finer white powder in a white bag. Last time I bought some it was <$3 for 1kg bag. As for the coffee, the cheaper the home brand the better. You'll need some vitamin C as well. Where you get that in Adelaide is up to you.

The Kodak vision processes well in caffenol.

 

[alienmeatsack]

F4User - I don't have any XTol. It's one of the BW developers I don't have at this time. If the 250D (or any film) is expired some, it will most likely get that tan/brown base regardless. I don't know of any way around that except maybe to use ECN2 developer and that may not help either.

I do have the stuff to make a batch of Caffenol, but I avoid it due to the smell it makes on all my gear. I'd be happy to try doing a roll of 500T or 250D from here (this thread) in it if needed.

I currently have standard C41 press kits for color, and for BW I have D76, Microphen, Adonal/Rodinal, Dektol, Liquidol, the stuff to make Caffenol and that's it.