For Sale Tons of Kodak (and Fuji) 35mm Motion Picture Film available

mweintraub · Jul 14, 2014

Thanks Alienmeatsack.

As mentioned, I'm also looking for trades. Because... you know, why not have more gear.

alienmeatsack · Jul 14, 2014

Here are a few shots from the Vision2 250D I just shot purely as a test. I think the film sings at +1 to +2 in slightly darker settings and at "box speed" when the scene is night and bright all around. Shot using a Voigtlander Bessa R4A and VC 15/4.5 lens w the ISO set to 250 and on Automatic. Please excuse the waterspots and framing. These were purely to test the exposure and such and not for arts sake. I only sharpened the images post scanning and did not adjustments on the images to retain their visual values for comparison.

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These were both shot at 250 and I aimed at a scene that was bright across the board to get even light.
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Dr Croubie · Jul 14, 2014

alienmeatsack said:
Here are a few shots from the Vision2 250D I just shot purely as a test.

Not bad at all, thanks for the samples. ECN or C41?

pbromaghin · Jul 15, 2014

So your backlit scene looks great (on my wife's mac) at +2, but your other 2 shots look great at box speed. Typical blue shadows, like Ektar 100. Nice saturation. I think this stuff has aged really well. I'm in for 1200 ft of this same emulsion, and it looks like no regrets will be needed. I'll probably first try it at box speed.

pbromaghin · Jul 15, 2014

mweintraub said:
I've been keeping the film list in a Google Drive Spreadsheet, so please check out the up to date Pending, Sold, Available list here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PDOqFVJslIXroZGO4OEug2GcMhrdm3VULoaGnrZCWyU/edit?usp=sharing

So it looks like there's a whole pile of Tungsten film that nobody's buying. That's a shame. I hardly ever use artificial light, but I could sure buy a correcting filter and shoot at 125 or 64 iso. Is that all there really is to it? Does anybody have any tips for shooting Tungsten in sunlight? These films are just too good to let them rot. I've seen some of the movies that were shot on these emulsions and they were beautiful. I would be proud to use them for my still photography.

Oxleyroad · Jul 15, 2014

I shoot tungsten balanced cine film regularly with an 85B filter in daylight. 500T at EI 320 with filter.

alienmeatsack · Jul 15, 2014

Dr Croubie, that was done C41 using the remjet removal step I mentioned earlier in the thread.

alienmeatsack · Jul 15, 2014

Oxleyroad, how do the T series films with the 85B filter compare in color temperature to the D series or normal daylight films without it from your view?

I've not had a chance to load and shoot any of the T I've purchased from this thread yet or I'd know that answer myself. I just don't have the bulk loaders free at this time. I had to buy a new one just for the 250D I got.

Oxleyroad · Jul 16, 2014

alienmeatsack, I need to preface my observations with - All my 16mm film use is for cine purposes (family home movies and animation), with the intended audience being family and friends.

I have mixed both Daylight negative film and Tungsten negative film with 85B filter back to back on a working film print with a single light, and I have been very happy with these working prints. I have not been able to pick the colour difference. However there would always be the option to correct the colour if I ever wanted to with a final print from the negative as part of the normal film production process. It is more than likely to be through a d.....l workflow now in this country as small jobs like mine are no longer possible.

When I forget the 85B filter when using Tungsten negative film I have gotten a working print back that has had a blue cast.

I have also mucked around with 35mm film stock in my still cameras and on the same tungsten film shot with and without the 85B filter and when the negs are scanned using auto colour adjust settings you can't tell. But then with this film I do not make RA-4 processed prints, will try one day, but when I have some time and money to spare. Most of my 35mm colour neg film stock is used for B&W reversal.

mweintraub · Jul 18, 2014

If you've inquired about some film and haven't heard from me in a while, please get in touch with me.

For those I haven't heard from in a while, I will be releasing the films you've inquired about to other individuals tonight.

wblynch · Jul 18, 2014

Why oh why is there no Ektachrome MP film on that list?

Aha, all this time and I just now figured out the DAT in MR.DAT

ck_berlin · Jul 21, 2014

Hi,

How much is the shipping to Germany? 3-5 cans (depends on the costs of shipping).

mweintraub · Jul 21, 2014

ck_berlin said:
Hi,

How much is the shipping to Germany? 3-5 cans (depends on the costs of shipping).

Hi ck_berlin,

I know that shipping 3 canisters using USPS' Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate boxes are $61. For a Large Flat Rate box, it's $80. Depending on which canisters you are interested in (their weights are different), using a non-Flat Rate might be cheaper.

Which rolls were you interested in and I can calculate exact shipping based on weight. If you'd like, you can PM me the details.

mweintraub · Jul 21, 2014

wblynch said:
Why oh why is there no Ektachrome MP film on that list?

Aha, all this time and I just now figured out the DAT in MR.DAT

Sorry, I don't know why the guy I got theses from didn't have any. I'll have a strong word with him!

:-O Yeah, I'm a fan of Digital Audio Tape.

pbromaghin · Jul 22, 2014

Question about shooting Tungsten in daylight with a filter - when it says to adjust the ISO from 500 to 320, for example, does that mean when using a hand-held meter, or does it apply to an in-camera through-the-lens meter? I would think it would not apply to a metered camera.

mweintraub · Jul 23, 2014

I processed a roll of the EXR 100T in B&W chemistry (TMAX Dev) and based on what it looks like drying, I'm liking it. I'll post samples from the scans.

Removing the Rem-Jet backing was easy. It was late and I kinda did it hap-hazardly, it still worked. I mixed some baking soda (~1/2 Tbsp) in some warm water (500ML @ ~100F) and did a initial rinse/wash. Processed normally [chosen as a starting point] (~4:15 minutes @ 27C). When the fixer was done and I was rinsing, I used my fingers as a squeegee to get the rest of the backing off.

alienmeatsack · Jul 23, 2014

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) you are correct. If your camera has a meter that is TTL, then you don't actually need to do anything as it should adjust its settings to match the amount of light the filter is allowing in. And without a meter, or non-TTL metering, you'd adjust to 320 by hand (or expose by that 500->320 different via shutter or aperture changes).

However, all of these films are 10+ years old, so you will probably need to also adjust by around a stop on top of that for best results. It will vary from film to film. And there's personal taste involved, I know some folks like to over expose or under expose regardless, based on the results they get from each kind of film.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists), BW was my first choice as well to make it easy to try the film. I was curious about the EXR films since they are I believe intermediate films and may product different results then the Vision1/2 films. Who knows, if your results are good you may end up with more of my money

mweintraub · Jul 23, 2014

I can't believe 2004 is 10 years ago!

I'll try to scan them tonight.

pbromaghin · Jul 23, 2014

alienmeatsack said:
However, all of these films are 10+ years old, so you will probably need to also adjust by around a stop on top of that for best results. It will vary from film to film. And there's personal taste involved, I know some folks like to over expose or under expose regardless, based on the results they get from each kind of film.

Marc is sending me three 400' rolls of 250D, so there will be plenty available to determine the speeds. I'm getting pretty excited about this as it's going to come out to about $.01 per shot, plus home processing. It's making me want to start looking for some B&W recans and short ends.

mweintraub · Jul 23, 2014

I totally guessed on exposure (ISO) and I think I was way off. This is 100T film, but I shot it at 50-64 and it was too overexposed. It is not that bad, but I'll do a full bracket test.

Surprise, it's a photo of my dog.

pbromaghin · Jul 24, 2014

So what did you do to get color film to yield B&W?

alienmeatsack · Jul 24, 2014

(there was a url link here which no longer exists), If you got the BW development time/mix right then that means that the film aged well and has stayed pretty close to if not right on it's original speed at 100. I'd say the only way to really truly know would be to bracket it with a scene that has a little bit of everything from dark to light and then do it in color chemicals to see exactly what you get.

I was figuring that the EXR 100T would have been a stop slow and would have shot it at 50-64 myself as well.

One of the fun things about bulk films like this, you have a little extra to experiment with before nailing down the perfect BW or color development and iso settings to use.

I do think that these films do better when done BW vs color since C41 is technically not the right developer. And since there are so many wonderful BW developers out there, you can play aroudn to get what is essentially an infinite combo of temperatures, times, mixes, agitation methods etc - all o get a perfect image.

I know I look forward to trying the other films I've got from your sale (and the rest when they arrive) and doing the same tests. Then I get to go out and SHOOT SHOOT SHOOT!

alienmeatsack · Jul 24, 2014

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - He most likely just processed it as if it was BW using D76 or something similar. Color films, regardless of processing method (E6, C41, ECN2, R4A) should all result in a nice BW image when done in most any BW developer. Some will be flat or have a lack of contrast, grainy or similar, but you get results.

When I am in doubt, esp w older films, BW is always a nice quick and safe way to see if the film works and what speed it is at due to age.

The hardest part is the development times since there aren't really nice charts like Massive Dev for the color/motion picture films. But once you nail down the timing and chems, it's all just fun shooting after.

Terry Christian · Jul 24, 2014

Okay, so I pre-washed with a washing soda (or baking soda) bath and agitated fiercely to remove the remjet, before C-41 processing as normal. The pre-wash water was indeed gray. Unfortunately, the film still looks as black as ever, only with barely discernible images and a slight orange hue, too dense to scan through. Am I doing something obviously incorrect?

mweintraub · Jul 24, 2014

I used the Massive Dev Chart app on my phone to pick a time and used it as a timer.

I started with Tri-X 400 in TMax Dev and had to adjust the time based on the lowest water temp I was getting out of the sink (27C).
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=TMax+Dev&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C

I found a blog that discusses their MP film processing steps and added about 1/2 Tbsp of baking soda to 500ML of ~100F water, mixed it and filled the tank with it. Agitated it for about 2 minutes (I think). Drained and rinsed with water for a little. The baking soda mix and water did come out dark and a little chunky. After it ran clear, I started B&W development.

From the Dev Chart App, it came out to about 4:15 of dev time, which I don't think is suggested as it's very short. But this was a test anyway.

When scanning, I set it B&W Negative Film so there is no color casts.

Terry, can you post a photo of what the negatives look like? I want to compare your films to mine. I wonder if I didn't remove enough of the remjet (instead of an underexposure issue).

For Sale Tons of Kodak (and Fuji) 35mm Motion Picture Film available

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