To OM-4 or not....

[Roger Cole]

You're buying used so make sure you have warranty or money back - buy from a reputable seller.

Depending on where you are, quality lenses for either are at a premium but Nikons are generally less costly then Olympus because there seems to be more available. The F3 can use none AI lenses which are also generally less expensive then the AI or newer lenses. There are an abundance of screens and finders for the F3 so there is bound to be one you prefer. Also, the F3 viewfinder is 100%.

On the OM4, you have the most sophisticated metering of any camera. While it's exposure range is just less then the Pentax LX, it adds spot metering that the was not common. The OM4 - actually all OM's, are smaller and lighter then the F3 and so are the equivalent lenses. The OM's maybe the gem of cameras but they are robust.

Not to add to the decision dilemma, but in this level of cameras, the Pentax LX is a worthwhile consideration if not the leader of it's class. Almost the size and weight of the OM's, sophisticated flash and TTL metering as the OM4, interchangeable finders/screens like the F3 and the hybrid mechanical/electronic shutter giving you much more shutter speeds available when the battery dies like the Canon new F-1.

I have a Pentax LX. It's a great camera, BUT there are a couple of things to be aware of.

The automatic mode has no exposure memory lock. I'd become so used to this in other automatic cameras I took it for granted. Frame to meter the desired areas, lock exposure, re-compose. On the LX that requires using manual mode or adjusting the compensation for the equivalent exposure, which is not that easy, basically impossible with the camera to your eye. I think this is the one thing lacking in this otherwise excellent camera.

Another thing is that it is rather loud. I can't really quantify this, and it isn't thunderous or anything, but my little Ricoh XR-7 second body is much, much quieter (and has the exposure memory lock - in some ways it's actually nicer to use but built like a toy compared to the tank-like pro grade LX.)

Another thing that some people don't like is that the way the mirror lock up and self timer are controlled, there's no way to use both. You can't lock the mirror up and then have the self timer fire the camera. If I used the self timer that might be a limitation, but I don't so it's a non-issue for me.

The LX does have an excellent meter with off the film metering including OTF flash metering with the proper dedicated flash units, superb low light response, interchangeable finders etc. plus all shutter speeds from X (1/75) to 1/2000 are usable without batteries. It's a great camera, but (like any other camera I've ever used) not completely perfect.

 

[Les Sarile]

Somehow I like the fact that there are no perfect cameras . . . makes for great justification to owning a few . . . ;-)

Personally, I prefer the Nikon approach to MLU on their FM2N/FM3/FE2/FA in that they combined it with the self timer. When using the self timer, the mirror flips up first seconds before the shutter fires.

 

[John Koehrer]

Not on the OM2n. There is no separate compensation knob, you just change turn the film speed knob to a different speed, which maxes out at 1600.

No, there is no separate compensation knob, and it works as you say. BUT! They (OM2) give adjustment values in 1/3 stops. Without having to do the math. That's how they work. Any camera with a compensation control will adjust a contact on a resistor band thereby compensating exposure to a different EI.
Someone will have to adjust(compensate) in processing for correct development. So What?

 

[Bill Burk]

...BetterSense is right. You can set ±2 exposure compensation at all speeds bar the lowest() and highest(1600). The dial will just stop moving....

Rats

 

[John Hermanson]

Oldest OM-4 do have higher battery drain, but batteries will last much longer if you use silver oxide batteries (357, 303, MS76, KS76, G-13, SR44-W, S76). Alkaline (A76, LR44) and lithium (CR1/3N) have much shorter life. To test OM-4 to see if it has intermediate, lower drain circuit board, turn battery check on. If beep and LED turn off automatically in approx. 30 seconds, circuit is newer style. John

 

[Bill Burk]

batteries will last much longer if you use silver oxide batteries.

That has not been my experience.

I bought my OM-4 new shortly after it was introduced. The current drain on my specimen OM-4 was enough to exhaust any battery that fits in the compartment in one day.

I sent the camera back to Olympus repair center twice while the camera was still under warranty. No work was done, I was given the batteries back taped to a card that said the batteries were dead.

Using silver oxide batteries while the camera is in this state just empties my wallet.

My first choice of batteries now is the swap-meet $1 a card A76 cells, then next choice is the brand name A76 that are still a few bucks each but not impossible to buy a half-dozen.

 

[wblynch]

Isn't there some 'trick' on the OM4 to turn the power off when not in use? Something like setting the shutter to 'B' ?

(I think I read that somewhere....)

 

[Les Sarile]

I believe the trick might be to send an ailing OM to Camtech

 

[MattKing]

I believe the trick might be to send an ailing OM to Camtech

Camtech is John Hermanson, who posted above .

 

[Les Sarile]

Camtech is John Hermanson, who posted above .

Must be why it lists that in his website link . . .

 

[John Hermanson]

That has not been my experience.

I bought my OM-4 new shortly after it was introduced. The current drain on my specimen OM-4 was enough to exhaust any battery that fits in the compartment in one day.

You cannot turn the drain off unfortunately. Setting the SS dial to B/60 only prevenets the meter from turning on if the release button is partway depressed.

Something is/was really wrong with that 4. I worked at Olympus when the 4 came out. I saw lots of bodies with high drain, and it took Olympus a while to come up with a lower drain board. IF the customer complained about the high drain, they put a newer low drain board in. If you didn't specifically mention it, the swap was not done. For proper operation, any old OM-4 should have a chrome battery cap (YES, it does make a difference) and make sure the bottom cover screws are tight. Ive seen a few 4s over the years where the circuit was truly defective, drain being 10X normal, but in this case, batteries got warm they drained so fast. You will get several months out of a set of silver oxide batteries in a healthy OM-4. . John

 

[Les Sarile]

John, Given that you've indicated that it requires a board replacement, is it correctable? Does it require a whole board replaced with a low drain version or a component on it replaced?
You pointed out the OM4 to be a problem - does this also apply to the OM2S with battery drain problem?
Send to Camtech for a more thorough evaluation?

 

[Bill Burk]

Thanks John,

I am also sure it is my camera, not a widespread phenomenom. I've got the original black outside / chrome inside battery cover. I occasionally remove the baseplate and tripod socket, clean thoroughly and replace. Good contact does make a difference. But just now the batteries were dead and for 20 cents I am back in business.

I think I'll send the camera to you for CLA, it could use new seals and the finder is dusty. Is it true you can replace the mainboard (even if it isn't cost-effective)?

 

[matthewm]

If I may add in my 2 cents...

I just barely got my hands on an OM-4 kit (28/3.5, 35/2.8, 50/1.4) so I'm not a long-time user by any means. My opinions are really just first impressions with some basic, early use.

I wanted a small, unobtrusive SLR to carry around in my Parcel bag with a 3-cell insert. The OM-4 kit that I purchased is perfect for this. The metering is spot-on (no pun intended). It's quiet, robust and it works surprisingly well. It's incredibly intuitive and, in my opinion, one of the finest cameras I've used. And it's WAY smaller than my EOS 1N + EF Lenses.

You can get the Olympus lenses for a good price and they're tack sharp. I bought and sold some gear to get the kit I have and now that it's all said and done and the dust has settled, I've only got about $200 invested in the whole kit (I've also got an OM-10 with Manual Adapter and 50/1.8 as a backup/second camera so I can shoot black and white in one, color in the other, etc.).

Anyway. I think the OM-4 is a really special camera and I love mine.

 

[andrewc]

I've become a huge fan of the OM-4. In fact, I'm on my 3rd example. I had two prior to this one and sold them thinking that I'd use other cameras instead, one of which was an OM-3. Then I realized how much I missed the OM-4 and bought another. It has all of the good qualities of the OM-3 (including mechanical operation above a certain shutter speed) plus a whole lot more. This one's a keeper! So is my LX, another camera that I absolutely love. As Les suggested, it's a good alternative to the OM-4 but they've become rather pricey. In fact their prices are more similar to OM-4T prices, but I think the camera is definitely worth it. Both of these are cameras that can withstand just about any kind of weather as well as any lighting situation, little powerhouses in compact bodies.

 

[Selidor]

OP here, Thanks for all the replies. Clearly alot of people love the Olympus OM system on APUG, and you've put to rest any of my worries regarding the reliability of the original OM-4. Having spot metering is looking like its going to be useful for what I shoot, which pretty much narrows it to the OM4 and the Leica R3 - and as much as I'd love to have the latter, prices for R lenses are rather eye watering! I could put my Tamron 28mm f2.5 Adaptall on it, but something about that setup just doesnt seem right...
Anyway Im holding off any upgrade for the time being, because 1) I need money for an upcoming holiday, and 2) I need money for putting a lens and flash on my EOS 1n. My OM-2n + T20 flash will suffice for now.
However in the autumn Ill look into it again. I could just use my EOS 1n for low light stuff, but as a poster already said its more cumbersome. Also it lacks the retro good looks

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

...Having spot metering is looking like its going to be useful for what I shoot, which pretty much narrows it to the OM4 and the Leica R3 - and as much as I'd love to have the latter, prices for R lenses are rather eye watering! ....

(OT)
R lens prices are probably nowhere as high as you might think. There are several shops (= used items with a try out guarantee) in Germany which often have good bargains.

Rather than an R3, I'd aim for an R4 or later, though (or Leicaflex SL/SL2, if AE isn't necessary)...


P.S. Addition: Be warned that Leica R lenses tend to be heavy.
If transportability is a priority, then OM is probably a better choice. If absolute lens performance (in many, though not all cases), then Leica R.
I don't have enough OM experience to usefully compare the OM and Leica viewfinder and shutter/mirror damping qualities: Leicaflex cameras are probably the best ever in that category. The difference between R models (good for R4-R7, reputedly very good for R8 & R9) and OM can be debated, though the OMs should also be very good.

 

[Uncle Bill]

I have both a Nikon kit including two F3s and a pair of OM-1s and an OM-2n. I owned an OM-4 briefly but traded it for one of my current OM-1s. I miss my OM-4 and I am seriously considering looking for another one. They are great cameras.

 

[Les Sarile]

I could just use my EOS 1n for low light stuff, but as a poster already said its more cumbersome. Also it lacks the retro good looks

For low light stuff - especially very long aperture priority auto exposure, the OM's metering is not matched by even today's latest and greatest. In my research, all Canons with AV mode - FD, EOS and digis, don't auto expose longer then 30 seconds. The manual states that it gives some indication of this which I never bothered to understand but always wondered why my attempted very long exposures were always coming back underexposed . . . ;-)

Not only does the OM4 have the retro good looks and awesome spot metering, but it will meter very long exposures (I've successfully done > tens of minutes) and will actually vary the exposure time as the scene lighting changes. You won't find many that can do this as I haven't!

 

[John Hermanson]

Thanks John,

Is it true you can replace the mainboard (even if it isn't cost-effective)?

No. When boards were avail;able, your price would be $250- for parts. Then add $250 for labor. You could replace body with 4T for that much.

 

[John Hermanson]

You might also consider the OM2S which is generally less expensive and has spot metering and ASA setting to 3200.

when the asa is set to a minimum or maximum number, compensation will only go one way. Asa 3200 on a 2S is already at the limit of the asa circuit, so while you can dial in plus comp, you can't dial in any minus compensation. Like asa 12 on an OM-2/2N, you can dial in minus but can't dial in any plus compensation. John