Well there's no arguing with the truth of that statement. I may continue to ask for information here on APUG but I accept that the matter is probably closed between us in the sense that both of us have explained our positions and we can best leave it thereIf you want to insure accurate information, go to the source.
What does Mr Mooney ask for in terms of proof of purchase and does he ask for a return of the film or is it enough to be able to simply state the batch number which everyone on APUG certainly including those who haven't actually bought the affected film can now quote if so minded?
pentaxuser
It's ridiculous that Kodak is handling this via a half hidden recall. Absolutely ridiculous. What is this, amateur hour?
Kodak Alaris Tmax
Read all about it...
I have never had this happen with either Ilford or Foma, I never used Fuji so can't comment, but certainly Foma which is the film I use most, has a completely different backing paper to Ilford/Kodak, as does Rollei, they both use the same backing paper and it feels slightly thicker, feels more like the backing paper that was used in the fifties/sixties. Maybe that is part of the problem with Kodak, just a suggestion, but could a change of backing paper to something like Foma/Rollei help with the problem
Again just a suggestion, but maybe they could learn something from Foma/Rollei. maybe they got it right, although I doubt that either Ilford or Foma/Rollei would like to give them what might be trade secrets, a lot of photographers, me included, need the frame numbers in a form that can be seen with red window cameras,so no numbers is not really an option, I have no doubt that they will find a solution, but if the solution is very light or no numbers then yhat would rule me out as a potential customer as 90% of my MF photography is with foldersThe problem is not the paper but the ink, or the combination of ink+ 'new' paper. The ink is the thing which leaves a mark on the film. Less ink, forced drying of the ink, new sort of ink, no ink at all (for cameras that need no frame-numbers) are all possibilities within a solution. If no numbers were to be applied then one could even use a non-printable material as backing to protect the film - even filmbase carrying only a black gelatine layer.
+1Care to share a link? I looked at Alaris' web site and found nothing to show that Kodak is trying to help customers with the recent batches of defective film. I'm not saying it's not there, only that it's so well hidden that I can't find it.
+1 Most of us are simply "seekers of information here"+1
Please expand upon your suggestion, Noel, with some useful advise. If you know something we don't know... we are interested.
Which emulsion batch numbers are which?
You will be able to tell the emulsion batch by carefully looking at the developed film's rebate - near "11".
Just be sure to keep the backing paper referenced to the film.
You do understand, do you not, that not all films within the problem batches show the problem?
In fact, it may be that only a tiny percentage of the films within the problem batches will show the problem, and then only when the film happens to have been subjected to some combination of circumstances that the batches are particularly susceptible to.
My replacement film was received today.I've now received a notification from Mr. Mooney that my film will ship today.
I agree with you on it being one of the best films out there and probably the best 400 speed ever made. Kodak hit the nail on the head with Tmax 100 and 400, but it wasn't always so. I tried Tmax 100 when it first came out and while it was very fine grained it was hard for me(and others) to control contrast wise. Kodak did their magic tweaking and now it just doesn't get any better. I remember people being so wanting the early product to work they were actually trying every thing from different developers/dilutions to running developing temps up in the 90F degree mark. I even tried the high-temp development and it worked fine. It also removed the dye base tint real well too. I could be happy with two B&W films forever. 1. Fuji Acros for 100 speed(I like it much better than Tmax 100) 2. Tmy2 for everything else when I need a little more speed. I'm talking medium format and might look at things differently in 35mm. Now, that the backing paper bugs are supposedly gone I will stock up on some TMY2 for the freezer.I recently ran my first roll of the new TMY400. Close inspection with a loupe reveals no problems. Damn I love TMY. If I had one film for the rest of my life, yeah, it's TMAX 400. Nice and crisp in D23.
It isn't bleed through because the ghost images are areas of incresed density on the negative and are not reversed.something that has been bugging me. are the ghosts from bleed through or is it where the emulsion sits on the backing paper thats causing the ghosts? it would be interesting to see someone with the problem to rewind the film to see exactly where the ghosts are being transfered from. front or back?
as ive said, i shot plenty of the 2017 tmy2 n not one bad roll in the bunch. just odd how some were not effected at all, yet some from the same store had problems.
what a mess!
I just received 10 rolls from B&H, dated 09/2018 I'm going to assume that since these guys still have a few super geniuses left on staff that between Rochester and B&H they have got this figured out. I'm sticking to Kodak and Ilford through thick and thin.
I'm going to blast off a couple rolls this week. Hopefully all is well.
Best Regards Mike
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