tips on shooting LF portraits wide open

[eddie gunks]

hello all,
i am interested in shooting LF portraits wide open, or at least with a shallow DOF. i am looking for the soft look.
what are some techniques that i can use. because it is LF it takes me a while to get all set. while that is happening it gives my model plenty of opportunity to move around. i am finding this particular difficult. short of telling my model "do not move" i am at a loss. i want relaxed looking models and a "do not move" order kind of kills that. :))
how do you all do it? i was looking for the softness of shooting the lenses wide open or close to it. i guess i could achieve shallow DOF with movements, but how will that affect the softness i am looking for? how do i get the correct focus without leaning the model's head against a wall?

thanks
eddie

 

[Roger Hicks]

Dear Eddie,

Look at Hollywood portraits and you'll see that very often, the models are in relaxed poses that are very easy to hold. Of course they're also professional actors and actresses and can hold poses...

Another old trick is to Gaffer-tape a bamboo to the back of the chair so that when their head is touching it, they are in focus. Then, even if they move, you can re-direct them to the same position and pose.

I've used both tricks shooting 8x10 portraits with a 21 inch (533mm) lens at full aperture (f/7.7). This may not seem very fast but with a lens of that length and near-macro image sizes on the film, depth of field is SHALLOW.

Cheers,

Roger

 

[eddie gunks]

thanks roger,
i understand that the near macro will give me a very shallow DOF. this is the challenging part because it is so shallow that any movement could alter my focus point. i will have to try it, but if i am shooting near macro and stop down a few stops, i am afraid i will loose the softness i am after.
thanks for the tip re: the gaffers tape.

eddie

 

[Roger Hicks]

Dear Eddie,

You're welcome. The surprising part about the bamboo trick is that it even works with movements, because you can direct your model to the same pose: tell them to remember where the bamboo was touching (back of the head, behind the ear, etc.) and then just direct them 'look over there' or 'look at me'. Try it a couple of times BEFORE you shoot. Set up the pose; focus; swing the front as needed; ask 'em to move (WITHOUT disturbing the chair or the bamboo!), and then to resume the same pose.

Do also consider head-resting-on-hand poses, etc, that are very easy to hold.

I suspect that the effective d-o-f of a 533mm lens at f/7.7 on 8x10 is similar to a 210mm at f/5.6 on 4x5 -- or it may be less. What lens are you planning on using? I have a 300/3.5 Tessar I keep meaning to try to bodge onto the 8x10.

Cheers,

Roger

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Attach a string to some place on the tripod. Have the subject hold it taught to the tip of their nose and put a knot in it there and focus on the eyes. Now you can put in a filmholder, close and cock the shutter, pull the darkslide, and re-check the distance before taking the shot. This can feel a bit silly, but it is very reliable.

Here's a shot with a 360/4.5 Heliar around f:4.5-5.6 on 8x10" full frame--

Another method I use sometimes with studio lighting is to pay careful attention to the shadows on the face when focusing, like where the nose shadow meets the upper lip. As long as the subject is seated in the same spot, you can adjust the head before the shot so that the shadow is in the same place, and the image will be in focus.

 

[Pinholemaster]

Me, I adapted fast lenses for a RB Graflex 4x5 SLR so I can see up to the moment I trip the shutter.

The two images on my home page were done that way.

The string technique, or the behind the head bamboo techniques are tried and true methods as well.

 

[Peter De Smidt]

If you use a string, make sure that it doesn't stretch. Hm, I wonder how I know that?

 

[Roger Hicks]

If you use a string, make sure that it doesn't stretch. Hm, I wonder how I know that?

Dear Peter,

Ah, the old physics questions: Masses A and B are connected by an inextensible string of negligible mass...

Cheers,

Roger

 

[eddie gunks]

thanks all,
i plan to start with mt 4x5. i have few different lenses i will be working with. my 165mm has a shutter so it is easy. i also have a 7 7/8 that is convertible and an old12" projection lens with no aperture. after i get the hang of it i will try my hand with my 8x10. i have a 12 in in a shutter now, and a 17in on the way.
i am going to attemp a bit of LF portraiture at my next wedding shoot so i am trying to become proficiant. i have till sept 29th.... i would like to shoot single ports, ports with the couple, and a full length shot like the old photos of our grandparents we have hanging in our houses.

thanks again!

eddie

 

[Peter De Smidt]

i am going to attemp a bit of LF portraiture at my next wedding shoot so i am trying to become proficiant. i have till sept 29th.... i would like to shoot single ports, ports with the couple, and a full length shot like the old photos of our grandparents we have hanging in our houses.

thanks again!

eddie

Just a warning, here. A friend of mine shot candid weddings with a speed graphic from about 1940 to 1980. To be honest, his photos aren't very good. They're often out of focus, poorly composed.... Working under pressure with a large format camera can be quite a challenge. That said, if you can do it successfully, you'll differentiate yourself in the market. I'd recommend doing set-up shots instead of candids with the LF camera. I hope it works out!

 

[eddie gunks]

thanks peter,
i was planning to do just what you suggested....shoot set up shots! i will be using my 135 camera for candids and my 120 and lf for some formal set ups. good advise though.

eddie

 

[Hugo Zhang]

I second David's idea. Using 8x10, I attach a string of dental floss to the front rail of my Kodak 2D and the results are surprisingly good.