Tips for accurate focus on a Hasselblad 500CM?

Saganich said:

Yea, know the feeling. Ye old 500 needs a Zen like relaxation when squeezing the trigger...or a tripod. Don't bother hand holding anything longer then 80 even if your a Zen master.

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I've definitely got to work on that! Sometimes I think the focus is right, but the camera shake is the issue. I have tried to shoot at 1/60 but I've not had much luck so far! The advantage of my Mamiya C33 is that thing doesn't move as it's so heavy on the strap, whereas the 500CM is lighter and has a notably stronger 'slap'.

Something for me to work on as I pretty much exclusively shoot hand held!

@Twotone have you seen the question from @itsdoable regarding the magnifier (loupe) rating? Hasselblad 500-series is the only MF camera I'm aware of that uses 0 for their stock WLF loupes. This requires you to have perfect vision. Every other manufacturer supplies their cameras with -0.5 to -1.5 diopter loupes.

I hated focusing with my 501CM until I swapped the stock loupe with a -1 one from eBay.

I use the Acute-Matte D 42204 screen with cross hairs, no split screen or focusing circles. I too shoot pretty much exclusively shoot hand held!

Steven Lee said:

@Twotone have you seen the question from @itsdoable regarding the magnifier (loupe) rating? Hasselblad 500-series is the only MF camera I'm aware of that uses 0 for their stock WLF loupes. This requires you to have perfect vision. Every other manufacturer supplies their cameras with -0.5 to -1.5 diopter loupes.

I hated focusing with my 501CM until I swapped the stock loupe with a -1 one from eBay.

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Thanks! I'm not sure what rating mine is but my eyesight is pretty much perfect thankfully!

Sirius Glass said:

I use the Acute-Matte D 42204 screen with cross hairs, no split screen or focusing circles. I too shoot pretty much exclusively shoot hand held!

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Sounds like what I need, I hate the split prism!

Twotone said:

Thanks for this, my screen is this: https://www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/hasselblad-focusing-screen-cfv-50c

Does your suggested technique still apply?

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That is a Acute Matte D, as indicated by the double notches on the frame.

You still need to make sure your magnifier is the correct diopter for your eyes.

itsdoable said:

That is a Acute Matte II, as indicated by the double notches on the frame.

You still need to make sure your magnifier is the correct diopter for your eyes.

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Thanks - Is there any way to verify what magnifier I have?

I think the AM split screen is the most valuable, so you can get good money if you go to sell it.

I'm assuming you are talking about the 80mm lens. I mostly use the 60mm and find it easy to get sharp focus.

Twotone said:

Thanks - Is there any way to verify what magnifier I have?

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If you can see markings on screen sharply there is no issue with diopter lens.

Hassasin said:

If you can see markings on screen sharply there is no issue with diopter lens.

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Great, all good on that front then!

Twotone said:

Thanks - Is there any way to verify what magnifier I have?

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Typically the default diopter is unmarked, or marked with a "0" - which is printed, so it wears off.

Just want to say a big thanks to everyone who's commented on my thread!

As originally planned, I'm going to spend some time getting better acquainted with my 500C/M and potentially swap the screen out for a non-split prism type Acute Matt D.

I've done 99% of my shots handheld so I'm going to invest in a decent carbon tripod to carry around with me to help the cause as I've definitely ruined a few focused shots with camera shake.

All in all, I think I just need some more practice, plus potentially a different screen, but either way I'm feeling very fortunate to be able to use such a nice bit of kit, so it's on me to do it justice.

Thanks all

I really don't want to spend your money, but...

... for that tripod, get a Hasselblad quick release plate, either the long or short one; it doesn't matter which. Watch ebay and it won't take long to find one at a really affordable price.

For example:

I *think* the CFi lenses have a faster focus throw.

@BrianShaw What's even cooler is finding an arca-swiss compatible tripod foot for a Hasselblad. It works with any arca-swiss compatible quick release head, so you can use the same tripod head with any other camera. I've never seen one on eBay though.

Steven Lee said:

@BrianShaw What's even cooler is finding an arca-swiss compatible tripod foot for a Hasselblad. It works with any arca-swiss compatible quick release head, so you can use the same tripod head with any other camera. I've never seen one on eBay though.

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Acratech 2143 or 2144 are arca-swiss compatible. https://www.acratech.net/categories/quick-release-plates/hasselblad.html

Steven Lee said:

@BrianShaw What's even cooler is finding an arca-swiss compatible tripod foot for a Hasselblad. It works with any arca-swiss compatible quick release head, so you can use the same tripod head with any other camera. I've never seen one on eBay though.

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Induro tripods meet that need at a lower cost.

Oh nice! Thanks.

Twotone said:

Morning folks,

Picked up a Mamiya C33 TLR about 6 months ago and after getting it CLA'd and a focus issue fixed I learned to really love it, and more importantly do a good job at nailing focus with the magnifier, as such I've taken some great shots with it.

As time went on, I found myself wanting a MF camera that I could carry around with me more easily and that would stand the test of time, also with an excellent lens choice and fully mechanical - I decided on the 500CM!

I've had the 500CM about 2 months and have probably shot about 8/9 rolls through it, so far it's been a joy to use, and a learning curve. I got it fully CLA'd (body and lens) and replaced the original dull focus screen with a 'digitial markings' acute matt Hasselblad screen which made a big difference to focusing, however I'm not consistently getting subjects in focus, even when stopping the lens down. As an additional point to add, I know the camera/screen is correctly focused, so it's not a camera issue.

My main issues are:

- the focus throw range on the 500CM is huge compared to the 500CM so it feels like nailing the focus can be really challenging, especially as after a while I start to second guess what is more in focus! I think this is the biggest issue.

- the split prism is not my bag at all, so I use the rest of the screen to focus with the pop up magnifier as it's crisp enough (an accepted technique it seems, this would be no different to focusing on a normal freshnel screen without a splitprism).

I'm aware the focus throw 'arms' are available, has anyone used one? And if so, how did it improve things for you?
I'm also conscious that I could opt to replace my new screen with an original Acute Matt without the split-prism.

I do realise a huge part of this improving is me using it and getting to grips with it more, but just wondering if I'm missing anything which could make my life easier!

Funnily enough, I recently spoke with a chap who shot with one for 40 years a wedding photographer and reckoned shooting 1/30th at f/2.8 was widely accepted at weddings for good results

Thanks all

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I had the same issues in the beginning, but a bright split screen finally did it for me.

I found that accurately focusing my 500 C/M, even with an Acute Matt D screen, was inconsistent unless the camera was rock steady. Once I put the camera on a sturdy tripod it became much easier. The other improvement was to replace the WLF with the chimney magnifier which eliminated all extraneous light with the rubber eyecup and let me fine tune the focus of the diopter. These two changes made the Hasselblad the easiest to focus of all my SLR's.

JerseyDoug said:

I found that accurately focusing my 500 C/M, even with an Acute Matt D screen, was inconsistent unless the camera was rock steady. Once I put the camera on a sturdy tripod it became much easier. The other improvement was to replace the WLF with the chimney magnifier which eliminated all extraneous light with the rubber eyecup and let me fine tune the focus of the diopter. These two changes made the Hasselblad the easiest to focus of all my SLR's.

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Either the chimney or some form of prism gets rid of the stray light from a WLF. I bought my camera with a WLF and the two have never been together since 2007. Its lack of presents brings much joy.

Do the math.

You do no only need shallow focus but 'sharp' distance in you shot solution and depending only on what you may be perceiving as sharp focus is silly, with the tools lain out in front of the analog Hasselblad (or most any other camera), of any vintage.

Use of a working mechanical or digital rangefinder is one way to ensure you are in the right focus area and your Zeiss lenses have perfectly good indicators on the lens barrel and the apature ring that, together with the correct use of both, can put your focus, mathematically speaking, on the nose of your subject.

knowing the focus distance then enables you to decide and pick from a variety of apature choices, for very shallow or quite deep depths of field.

You are still in charge of the photograph you're making, controlling composition, lighting, filters, shutter speeds, etc, and, all the handheld rangefinder is doing is putting you on firm ground with your focusing options.

I would consider the chimney viewfinder as a good close up viewing aid, or a good, long loup but that is just my personal preference.

Cheers.

eli griggs said:

Do the math.

You do no only need shallow focus but 'sharp' distance in you shot solution and depending only on what you may be perceiving as sharp focus is silly, with the tools lain out in front of the analog Hasselblad (or most any other camera), of any vintage.

Use of a working mechanical or digital rangefinder is one way to ensure you are in the right focus area and your Zeiss lenses have perfectly good indicators on the lens barrel and the apature ring that, together with the correct use of both, can put your focus, mathematically speaking, on the nose of your subject.

knowing the focus distance then enables you to decide and pick from a variety of apature choices, for very shallow or quite deep depths of field.

You are still in charge of the photograph you're making, controlling composition, lighting, filters, shutter speeds, etc, and, all the handheld rangefinder is doing is putting you on firm ground with your focusing options.

I would consider the chimney viewfinder as a good close up viewing aid, or a good, long loup but that is just my personal preference.

Cheers.

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Using ISO film at box speed [adjust for shadow detail and filters as necessary] gives a better depth of field and makes it easier to focus.

Twotone said:

I've definitely got to work on that! Sometimes I think the focus is right, but the camera shake is the issue. I have tried to shoot at 1/60 but I've not had much luck so far!

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I think that's your big problem--if you're shooting hand held at 1/60, you've got three things that can interfere with your sharpness overall *besides* simply not being in focus: subject movement (if you're shooting something moving--even leaves/branches moving in the wind), handheld camera shake, and mirror slap--I've read several accounts saying that mirror slap is easily detectable in Hasselblad images at 1/60. Personally, if I'm shooting at anything less than 1/250, I'm gonna try to shoot on a tripod and I'm normally going to pre-release the mirror. That leaves only potential subject movement and focus errors as sources of unsharpness, but at least reduces the potential causes of same by 50%.

One thing I use to help reduce focus errors (and my vision is getting worse with age, so this can be a struggle) is to use some kind of specular highlight as a focusing aid. I shoot a lot of studio portraiture with my 500CM and 553ELX, and I usually try to use the catchlight in the eyes from the modelling lights, because it's fairly easy to see when that's sharp, as a focusing aid (and of course it's extremely important to get the eyes in focus, if nothing else). But yeah, if you've got some kind of light reflecting off metal/glass, it can help make sure that your focus is spot on, as it's pretty easy to detect when those are out of focus. I also use small, thin things like twigs, stripes on clothing, etc. They *can* help with a split prism, but like you, I kind of prefer to use the other parts of the screen to focus, so looking at fine detail to see when it appears sharp, and ignoring some of the larger things in the image, seems to help me when shooting outdoors, and with very close portraits.

I do find that the chimney finder shown earlier in this thread and suggested by several people can help with focus accuracy, and I normally use it in the studio. It's particularly nice in that you can precisely focus the magnifier on the viewing screen to suit *your* vision, and it's infinitely variable in diopter, unlike the swappable diopters in the WLF or prisms, which come at best in half powers and usually only in full diopters. And it shuts out extraneous light that can cause distractions when trying to achieve critical focus. I've found that the chimney finder is one of the few really essential Hasselblad accessories, in my own personal experience. I'd highly recommend it; it's great for handheld shooting as well as on a tripod, plus it's very light. The only real problem with it is that it considerably extends the height of the camera in your bag, so you'll probably want to put the WLF for just carrying it around. Do also be careful with banging the chimney finder around in your bag--the walls are made of relatively thin aluminum, and can be dented/bent fairly easily.

Sirius Glass said:

Using ISO film at box speed [adjust for shadow detail and filters as necessary] gives a better depth of field and makes it easier to focus.

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Aye, that's the other step in a two step method in which you are able to bring about the best mechinical and technical elements together, ideally on a trip or monopole, but hand held also works, if you do no suffer from the shakes, low physical strenghts or have difficulty standing.

Both are part of the very basic steps of manual photography.

IMO.