Think Of A Mamiya RB67

[Sirius Glass]

I bought my RB67 in 1984. Only problem I ever had was the film back failed years later and was able to get it fixed. The camera is definitely a great choice for landscapes. It will make 16x20” prints still sharp. Won for me at the Santa Clara County Fair with a 16”x20” B&W print of Half Dome. The 6x7 format needs very little cropping. Also own a Mamiya 330
Pro S. They be a little heavy but built to last.

All film back, even Hasselblad, require some work such as tuning and adjusting over the life. Some need new light seals. So I would not complain about a film back needing some work.

 

[Dennis-B]

In 24 years, none of my Hasselblads have jammed either, nor have I ever tried to mount a lens when either body or lens is uncocked. But some people manage to do it and jam their camera.

I found this interesting quote on David Odess' web site (last paragraph, emphasis mine):

" Is it better to store my camera bodies and lenses wound or in the fired position?

Hasselblad cameras and lenses are designed so they perform properly with little or no special precautionary measures. This applies to storing cameras and lenses over extended periods of time, so there is no need to fire the cameras or "trip" the lenses before storing them.

Hasselblad engineers have never found any evidence to show that the life of a spring is shortened if the spring is kept tensioned, even after extended periods on non-use.

Hasselblad suggests that cameras and lenses be stored in the wound position. This eliminates the possibility of a camera jam caused by attaching an uncocked lens to a wound body, or vice versa. "

http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html

Springs for the most part can be stored in either tension or relaxed mode. The thing that does in springs is the constant flexing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

In 24 years, none of my Hasselblads have jammed either, nor have I ever tried to mount a lens when either body or lens is uncocked. But some people manage to do it and jam their camera.

I found this interesting quote on David Odess' web site (last paragraph, emphasis mine):

" Is it better to store my camera bodies and lenses wound or in the fired position?

Hasselblad cameras and lenses are designed so they perform properly with little or no special precautionary measures. This applies to storing cameras and lenses over extended periods of time, so there is no need to fire the cameras or "trip" the lenses before storing them.

Hasselblad engineers have never found any evidence to show that the life of a spring is shortened if the spring is kept tensioned, even after extended periods on non-use.

Hasselblad suggests that cameras and lenses be stored in the wound position. This eliminates the possibility of a camera jam caused by attaching an uncocked lens to a wound body, or vice versa. "

http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html

Springs for the most part can be stored in either tension or relaxed mode. The thing that does in springs is the constant flexing.

Hasselblad cameras and lenses were designed for the cameras to be stored with the lenses cocked. The springs were specifically engineered that way. It may be different for other cameras.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Springs for the most part can be stored in either tension or relaxed mode. The thing that does in springs is the constant flexing.

Yes, you are correct. Thank you. Over the years, three mechanical engineers where I worked told me the exact same thing. I have also mentioned that here on occasion, but apparently not in this thread.

Hasselblad cameras and lenses were designed for the cameras to be stored with the lenses cocked. ...

Also correct. ... and Hasselblad ships lenses in the cocked state. When I bought my CF 50/4 FLE new in 1997, it probably had been in the store for a year or more and it was cocked (as it is even now, 21 years later).

 

[Sirius Glass]

Also correct. ... and Hasselblad ships lenses in the cocked state. When I bought my CF 50/4 FLE new in 1997, it probably had been in the store for a year or more and it was cocked (as it is even now, 21 years later).

I really hope that you have fired and recocked the lens at least several times since you bought it!

 

[Theo Sulphate]

I really hope that you have fired and recocked the lens at least several times since you bought it!

Oh, yes, it's my favorite next to the SWC's 38mm.

This is the lens that, with Tech Pan, I made a 16x20 photo from Crown Point in the Columbia River Gorge where I could see the distinct outline of individual cars 4.5 miles away on highway 80. That surprised me. Naturally, it was from a tripod, pre-released, plus cable release. Yellow filter. That is one photo on my wall that gets attention and is my best example of demonstrating to myself that I was competent with the Zone System.

Maybe it's strange, but when using a Hasselblad, I feel compelled to bring out the tripod and make the most detailed and high resolution cityscapes and landscapes I can. Many years ago, I waited hours for just the right light and clouds before making a half-dozen photos of downtown Portland from the West Hills while other photographers came and went.

With a Mamiya RB67, I just walk around with it. It has excellent lenses as well, but it seems more of a "street" camera for me.

 

[flavio81]

.

With a Mamiya RB67, I just walk around with it. It has excellent lenses as well, but it seems more of a "street" camera for me.

And bodybuilding is good too!!

 

[Sirius Glass]

With a Mamiya RB67, I just walk around with it. It has excellent lenses as well, but it seems more of a "street" camera for me.

And bodybuilding is good too!!

Do they now sell RB67 with a truss? It is both heavier and larger than a Hasselblad.

 

[flavio81]

Do they now sell RB67 with a truss? It is both heavier and larger than a Hasselblad.

You took TOO long in this thread to defend the swedish camera thingy!!

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Do they now sell RB67 with a truss? It is both heavier and larger than a Hasselblad.

The RB67 can be held from underneath, its body resting on the forearm and wrist, with fingers wrapping underneath it. When walking through town, it is no different than cradling a large hedgehog. Typically, I use the 140mm Macro lens, which is somewhat of a short tele (like 75mm in 35mm-format).

 

[flavio81]

The RB67 can be held from underneath, its body resting on the forearm and wrist, with fingers wrapping underneath it. When walking through town, it is no different than cradling a large hedgehog. Typically, I use the 140mm Macro lens, which is somewhat of a short tele (like 75mm in 35mm-format).

I find the RB67 easier to handhold than the C220 and Rolleiflex, ergonomic-wise. Of course it weights much more. Using the WLF and the 90 or 127 lens help to keep rhe weight pretty much fine.

Or you can fit the 500mm lens and run for Mr. Olympia next yeat.

 

[wjlapier]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! The other camera I might consider bringing is the Mamiyaflex C with the blue dot 65--tiny negative compared to the other two cameras. Another nice lens.

What do you think of these three choices?

 

[mshchem]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! The other camera I might consider bringing is the Mamiyaflex C with the blue dot 65--tiny negative compared to the other two cameras. Another nice lens.

What do you think of these three choices?

Take them all if you have room. We are going to Tetons, Yellowstone area this fall . I'm taking Fuji G617, GW 690 III, and Hasselblad. The Fujis will be Acros and contrast filters. Hasselblad will be Fujichrome to make slides for projection. I will take a Nikon F5 to shoot slides as snaps.

 

[MattKing]

When walking through town, it is no different than cradling a large hedgehog.

While I don't often see people walking around with a film camera any more, I'd go out of my way to see someone walking around with a large hedgehog!
For my RB67, I use a right-hand trigger grip and a neck strap long enough to go diagonally across my shoulder - half-bandolier style.
The bag also has a long strap - it also goes diagonally, but on the other shoulder.

 

[Sirius Glass]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! The other camera I might consider bringing is the Mamiyaflex C with the blue dot 65--tiny negative compared to the other two cameras. Another nice lens.

What do you think of these three choices?

Take them all if you have room. We are going to Tetons, Yellowstone area this fall . I'm taking Fuji G617, GW 690 III, and Hasselblad. The Fujis will be Acros and contrast filters. Hasselblad will be Fujichrome to make slides for projection. I will take a Nikon F5 to shoot slides as snaps.

I am going to Dinosaur NP, Rocky Mountain NP, Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP, the Scadlands, and Lassen Volcano Park in the fall and I will the the Hasselblad. No trusses or crutches needed. It cradles nicely in the left hand without the pricks of a hedgehog.

 

[voceumana]

Anyone visiting Yellowstone NP might as well visit Grand Teton NP, since it is immediately to the south of Yellowstone. Also, the NE corner of Yellowstone has some beautiful views, and the highway to the NE via Silver Gate and Cooke City on to Red Lodge MT has gorgeous mountain passes and vistas.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! ...

If you bring both, you probably don't want to duplicate the focal lengths. Maybe a longer lens on the RB.

 

[abruzzi]

I guess we'll all be there--I'm leaving New Mexico in two weeks to ride my motorcycle up through Utah (Canyonlands, Capitol Reef), Wyoming (Grand Tetons, Yellowstone), Montana (just the corner), Idaho (Crater of the Moon, Twin Falls), Nevada (Bonneville Salt Flats), back to Utah (Zion, Grande Escalante, Kodachrome), Arizona (Grand Canyon North Rim, Vermillion Cliffs, Lee's Ferry, Horseshoe Bend, Navajo & Hopi reservations), and back to New Mexico.

I'll be taking the Bronica ETRSi with 50mm, 75mm, and 150mm lenses. I have four film backs which will have Velvia 50, Ektar 100, Portra 160, and a selection of Black and white films, mostly Fomapan 100. Light will be metered with a Sekonic 508. All of that, amazingly fits in a pretty reasonable size bag (no prism finder or grip, just a minimalist camera setup) and will fit in my tail bag, and use my clothes as padding.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! The other camera I might consider bringing is the Mamiyaflex C with the blue dot 65--tiny negative compared to the other two cameras. Another nice lens.

What do you think of these three choices?

You are taking a tripod, right?

 

[paul ron]

one thing to keep in mind when hand held an RB....

after you fire n hear the mirror go up, just hold still for anther moment. the shutter fires AFTER the mirror is fully up. thats a big barn door to raise.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I guess we'll all be there--I'm leaving New Mexico in two weeks to ride my motorcycle up through Utah (Canyonlands, Capitol Reef), Wyoming (Grand Tetons, Yellowstone), Montana (just the corner), Idaho (Crater of the Moon, Twin Falls), Nevada (Bonneville Salt Flats), back to Utah (Zion, Grande Escalante, Kodachrome), Arizona (Grand Canyon North Rim, Vermillion Cliffs, Lee's Ferry, Horseshoe Bend, Navajo & Hopi reservations), and back to New Mexico.

I'll be taking the Bronica ETRSi with 50mm, 75mm, and 150mm lenses. I have four film backs which will have Velvia 50, Ektar 100, Portra 160, and a selection of Black and white films, mostly Fomapan 100. Light will be metered with a Sekonic 508. All of that, amazingly fits in a pretty reasonable size bag (no prism finder or grip, just a minimalist camera setup) and will fit in my tail bag, and use my clothes as padding.

You pointed out some places in Idaho that I will add to my upcoming trip. Thanks.

 

[flavio81]

We're going to Montana for vacation soon--specifically Glacier National Park. I thought of bringing the RB67 with the 65KL but I also have a Fuji GSW680III. One smaller and lighter with a slightly bigger negative but I'm not sure which has the edge lenswise. I might bring both! The other camera I might consider bringing is the Mamiyaflex C with the blue dot 65--tiny negative compared to the other two cameras. Another nice lens.

What do you think of these three choices?

I'd carry the Fuji and the Mamiyaflex, if you want to carry two cameras. The 65mm lens for the Mamiya TLRs is very good, if you get a good sample. I'd also add a tele, and here the 135mm is very light. Or the 105mm which is longer than normal.

If you carry one camera, then the RB67. 65mm works wonderfully with the 6x7 format, it has been my latest purchase for my RBs.

I am going to Dinosaur NP, Rocky Mountain NP, Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP, the Scadlands, and Lassen Volcano Park in the fall and I will the the Hasselblad. No trusses or crutches needed. It cradles nicely in the left hand without the pricks of a hedgehog.

And when you fire it, the mirror shock will make sure all the animals present run away from you, including hedgehogs.

one thing to keep in mind when hand held an RB....

After you fire n hear the mirror go up, just hold still for anther moment. the shutter fires AFTER the mirror is fully up. thats a big barn door to raise.

Dear Paul Ron,

The Mamiya RB67 (all models) use a centrifugal governor that mechanically limits the speed of the mirror while it's raising. It is not a myth. I've serviced my RB67 myself and i've seen the magical mirror governor in action. It is also mentioned in the user manual and service manual.

This reduces mirror shock greatly. I can confidently shoot at 1/15th with the RB, i even have some prints that were at 1/8 that came out just fine.

Note that in all SLR cameras the shutter will fire after the mirror is fully up.

Fun stuff, the original 1959 Canonflex, as well as many Canon SLR cameras, also use a governor to reduce mirror shock. While Olympus (on the OM-1) and Pentax (on the MX at least) used a pneumatic shock absorber. I don't know which approach Nikon uses, in any case the F and F2 don't have any of those two devices.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I am going to Dinosaur NP, Rocky Mountain NP, Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP, the Scadlands, and Lassen Volcano Park in the fall and I will the the Hasselblad. No trusses or crutches needed. It cradles nicely in the left hand without the pricks of a hedgehog.

And when you fire it, the mirror shock will make sure all the animals present run away from you, including hedgehogs.

I kind of sort of doubt that I have a 500mm lens and a 2XE extender.

By the way have you ever seen this?

 

[flavio81]

I kind of sort of doubt that I have a 500mm lens and a 2XE extender.

LOL

Sirius, people like you make this forum great. Please, never die!

By the way have you ever seen this?

Shenanigans!!

The camera is placed on a flat, solid support and the full flat base of the Hasselblad is supported. Thus, there is no possibility for rocking motions.

The penny test comes from the engine world. You would place the penny on an engine. All automotive engines are on flexible, pivoting supports that allow the engine to rock from side to side.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

The penny is in the wrong place - it needs to be on the film back, closer to the film, closer to the rear baffles and closer to the top of the camera body, which is where vibration will be greatest.

Even so, the results are very likely to be the same.