im no talking about mirror shock, im reminding the user to avoid blur when hand holding by not moving too soon after firing the camera.
i
Dear Paul Ron,
The Mamiya RB67 (all models) use a centrifugal governor that mechanically limits the speed of the mirror while it's raising. It is not a myth. I've serviced my RB67 myself and i've seen the magical mirror governor in action. It is also mentioned in the user manual and service manual.
This reduces mirror shock greatly. I can confidently shoot at 1/15th with the RB, i even have some prints that were at 1/8 that came out just fine.
Actually, this is good advice for all cameras. Serenity at the time of shutter release (and before and after) pays great benefits.im no talking about mirror shock, im reminding the user to avoid blur when hand holding by not moving too soon after firing the camera.
i
LOL
Sirius, people like you make this forum great. Please, never die!
im no talking about mirror shock, im reminding the user to avoid blur when hand holding by not moving too soon after firing the camera.
i
any camera held properly can be solid as a rock... whats the point of this thread again?
(*) is there an English adjective that means "wife related" in the same manner that "maternal" means "mother related"?
The OP is asking us to justify buying a MF camera that is larger, heavier, and less reliable than a Hasselblad, after his wife said no.
...
The RB67 was intentionally designed to work out in the field at diverse conditions and climates.
...
thats exactly what steve grimes used to saySprings for the most part can be stored in either tension or relaxed mode.
less reliable?
It's you the hassy guys the ones who have to look up on the internet any of the dozen tutorials on how to to unjam 500-series camera bodies...
... and the only ones who need to buy a special tool to recock the lenses manually if they somehow are outside the body and uncocked.
(Something a RB67 users can do in an extremely simple way by using their fingers).
Not to mention tutorials for removing stuck lenses...
The RB67 was intentionally designed to work out in the field at diverse conditions and climates. The fact that it's japanese, doesn't have "ZEISS" on the lenses, and currently sells for cheap doesn't make it an inferior product to the Hasselbads. If anyrhing, they're intrinsically better designed.
I have the PME 45 degree prism which rests against my eye so the camera is quiet stable not like the RB67.
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btw OP you bought the wrong camera, you should have gotten an ebony.
RB wrong camera...haha...
i say buy the RB. they are selling cheap, its built like a russian tank and if he's unhappy with it, sell it for what he paid n buy something else.
hey sirius.... you're just a flame thrower. a better camera for 6x6 would be a yashicamat. cheap, light and the lens is very sharp.
Next time you're doing acrobatics with the PME and that Hasselblad to get good shots at 1/30 think about trying a roll with an RB/RZ. So smooth in operation that 1/15 is done handheld every shot every time and with a bit of care 1/8 is not that tricky. In fact you should try handling one just to learn what a proper smooth camera feels like.
In case anyone considering an RB/RZ gets this far in the thread, I second the amazing stability of my recently acquired RZ at low shutter speeds hand held. For all the racket that goes on down there I was pleasantly surprised at 1/15 hand held shots that I expected be blurred, I got nice sharp 16x20 enlargements.
Hasselblads are lovely too. Both have outstanding optics.
Hasselblads are ok. The problem is people selling A12 backs who think they're worth $500 apiece.
Most need a CLA which adds to the cost. For that kind of money it would have to be in mint condition, cook and clean for me
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