The Hasselblad is arriving tomorrow...

[Pieter12]

Did you use the focusing magnifier, or forget to mention that also?

and how’s your vision? I’ve been having increasing difficulty focusing as cataracts progress... and every time my bifocal prescription changes.

Cataract surgery is safe and simple and the results can be amazing (well at least for the patient). Get it done.

 

[Вormental_old]

Did you use the focusing magnifier, or forget to mention that also?
and how’s your vision? I’ve been having increasing difficulty focusing as cataracts progress... and every time my bifocal prescription changes.

You mean the loupe built into the WLF? Of course! I do not wear glasses but I also haven't tested my eyes in a long time, not counting DMV checks. I thought that my successes with Mamiya C330s should have been sufficient, as it features the same setup.

As I play with it more and more, I am starting to believe my difficulties stem from two factors:

• Huge and useless split-focus circle right in the middle. It simply shows everything sharp all the time and split-focus never worked for me on any camera.
  
• Very long focus throw of this lens multiplied by the healthy ring resistence. The focus point is easy to see and feel when it "pops" quickly as you turn, but in this case the picture changes slowly.

On my 2nd roll I started practicing two things. First, I avoid looking at the middle circle and train myself to use the rest of the screen as one giant micro-prism. Second, I am learning to hold the camera in my left hand and practice substantial, energetic focus turns with my right hand. This way focusing begins to feel more similar to my Nikon FM3a, where I frequently achieve sub-second pixel-perfect focus on anything in a scene.

What I **did** forget to mention (thank you, @BrianShaw ) is that I do not have a strap for the Hasselblad yet. I'm pretty sure my handshake will be substantially reduced once I find one.

 

[BrianShaw]

First, I avoid looking at the middle circle and train myself to use the rest of the screen as one giant micro-prism.

This was going to be my next post...

ha, the DMV eye exam... almost as hilarious as their pictures.

But please forgive me for being repetitive... MONOPOD.

 

[BrianShaw]

I'm pretty sure my handshake will be substantially reduced once I find one

... only if your taking bellybutton-level shots. I’m not tall so I tend to hold at face level for both focus and composition. My strap is mostly a useless annoyance, except when walking hither and fro.

 

[Alex Varas]

Second, I am learning to hold the camera in my left hand and practice substantial, energetic focus turns with my right hand. This way focusing begins to feel more similar to my Nikon FM3a, where I frequently achieve sub-second pixel-perfect focus on anything in a scene.

That’s the way I handle and focus too, I never tried other way.

 

[Вormental_old]

But please forgive me for being repetitive... MONOPOD.

Even if free, that MONOPOD will be used to break my scull. Due to the recent wave of eBay and KEH packages, my SO is in a military mode. I am lucky to have a sizable film stash so there won't be any photo-related receivables in the household for a while

 

[BrianShaw]

What’s one more???????

 

[Вormental_old]

... only if your taking bellybutton-level shots. I’m not tall so I tend to hold at face level for both focus and composition. My strap is mostly a useless annoyance, except when walking hither and fro.

True. I am 6'2 and use a very short neck strap on C330S. Love it. In this mode that camera is a champion of candid shots as most people don't even realize I'm taking a photo even if they're looking straight at me.

 

[BrianShaw]

I know you don’t want to even think about one more thing to buy, but another accessory might help too: a prism viewfinder. I prefer not using mine but it really does help with focus.

 

[MattKing]

Look for a quick focus handle for your lenses. Be sure to get the right one (s) because they come in different sizes.

There are similar accessories available for your Mamiya 645.

 

[Вormental_old]

I know you don’t want to even think about one more thing to buy, but another accessory might help too: a prism viewfinder. I prefer not using mine but it really does help with focus.

I have Mamiya 645 Pro which is very similar and it has a prism finder. Yes, it is easier, but I love the WLF experience and my C330s has taught me that precise focusing is possible with a WLF.

When some time passes, my next purchase will have to be a spot meter. Currently I only have the Gossen Digisix and it's amazing for most situations, but I wouldn't shoot slides with it.

 

[MattKing]

Currently I only have the Gossen Digisix and it's amazing for most situations, but I wouldn't shoot slides with it.

Digisix works great with slides and medium format - just spin it around and set it to incident mode.
A self portrait of sorts:

 

[Sirius Glass]

Regarding the OP's focusing problem:

1. The focusing screen is not seated properly.
2. The body is out of square.

The camera and lens may need a visit to the friendly Hasselblad repairman.

 

[Вormental_old]

Regarding the OP's focusing problem:

1. The focusing screen is not seated properly.
2. The body is out of square.

The camera and lens may need a visit to the friendly Hasselblad repairman.

I really hope it's not the case. But if it is, I will get the chance to test KEH's 180-day warranty. BTW what does it even mean: "out of square"? You mean the cage is bent?

 

[Вormental_old]

Digisix works great with slides and medium format - just spin it around and set it to incident mode.

I have an addiction to shooting backlit subjects. 99% of the time, those are portraits of people who'll kill me for posting their faces here, but here's a close enough example:

I really struggle with digisix (and with built-in meters I have) to meter a scene like this. I bump the compensation and hope for the best. What I need is the exact reading of a shadow and the reading of the sunlit asphalt. The best thing that worked was taking my digital camera set to spot metering mode, but this is NOT fun. The photo above could have benefited from +2EV IMO.

Incident metering in this case would have resulted in overly bright image. In this case I haven't tried, but wasn't happy when I did.

 

[MattKing]

Incident metering in this case would have resulted in overly bright image.

Take two incident readings - one reading the light source behind your subjects, and one reading the light illuminating your subjects.
Choose an exposure between the two - favouring the shadowed side, and adjusted to render the foreground the tone you wish.
A spot meter won't give you any more useful information than that.

 

[GLS]

BTW what does it even mean: "out of square"? You mean the cage is bent?

I assume that's what he meant, but I find that quite unlikely. The body frame of a Hasselblad V series is very sturdy. More likely than the frame being bent is the mirror being out of proper alignment, but if so you would expect that to result in a consistent front or back focus. Another thing: is the focus screen seated the right way up (i.e. with the frame notches facing you)? Sorry if this seems obvious to you, but I have known a person who had all sorts of focus issues with his Hassy and it turns out he had been using it all that time with the focusing screen installed upside down!

 

[Вormental_old]

GLS, I'll check, thanks. Not too worried as this point as I'm starting to see the focus better and have two more rolls to process next weekend.

 

[Arthurwg]

Digisix works great with slides and medium format - just spin it around and set it to incident mode.
A self portrait of sorts:

View attachment 256841

Lots of car portraits on this site but this one is truly beautiful.

 

[Arthurwg]

I really struggle with digisix (and with built-in meters I have) to meter a scene like this. I bump the compensation and hope for the best. What I need is the exact reading of a shadow and the reading of the sunlit asphalt. The best thing that worked was taking my digital camera set to spot metering mode, but this is NOT fun. The photo above could have benefited from +2EV IMO.

Almost impossible to get a good meter reading here, especially as the subject is moving. A Pentax spot meter would help, but most similar pictures like this would would benefit by +1 or +2 stops, your call. I did have a Hasselblad PME 45 meter prism that has a spot function. That might of helped, but they are very expensive and mine stopped working and could not be repaired. .

 

[DonW]

Buy a fedora.

I believe the fedora is part of the large format tribal uniform. That and a beard. For a Blad I think a ratty baseball cap is more the style . And certainly clean shaven.

 

[BrianShaw]

I believe the fedora is part of the large format tribal uniform. That and a beard. For a Blad I think a ratty baseball cap is more the style . And certainly clean shaven.

I stand corrected...

 

[BradS]

Regarding the OP's focusing problem:
--- snip ---
The camera and lens may need a visit to the friendly Hasselblad repairman.

 

[DonW]

I have been using blads since the mid 70's. Focusing them is a learned "art". Most of us with lots of experience with them don't even remember our initial trials. Back in the "DAY" all this razor thin DOF imagery was not a "thing". So maybe our focusing didn't need to be bang on initially. Although model shoots using a 150mm lens forced you to get your poop together pretty quick lol. When photographing static objects I use a WLF and make use of the magnifying element. Plus when possible a tripod. When my subject matter is non static then I use the prism finder. I find the extra weight of the prism finder a real drag if it's not really necessary.

Have fun with your new toy! Remember a good camera provides a lifetime of love. SO's well they come and go

 

[MattKing]

Lots of car portraits on this site but this one is truly beautiful.

Thanks