The Great Nikon N75 vs N80 Shootout!

[ic-racer]

I was out with my N55 yesterday with the 28-80G. A great combination. It was pretty cold, so no fiddling with any knobs anyway. Also, to ensure good performance in the cold I used the MB-18 battery pack with fresh Eneloop batteries.
At one point I did reach for the DoF preview (which is missing on N55) but then saw in the readout I was using f5.6 which was wide open. So I already had my DoF in view.

 

[gone]

Much better cameras out there for non-AF purposes.

You're right. In fact, I had confused the n75 w/ the n70, which is what works better w/ non Nikon lenses. In fact, I don't even know if the n75 will meter w/ non Nikon lenses. My n70 did. It's so confusing!

 

[ic-racer]

Maybe, but that small size format, AE w/ AE lock and great exposures is difficult to pass up on. The n8008s is my holy grail for using non Nikon lenses. Yes, it's ugly and heavy, but that amazingly bright viewfinder along w/ all the other features makes it ideal. Even w/ a lens stopped down a bit it still has a bright viewfinder. I can get a shot off so much faster than a camera w/o motorized film advance, and exposures are always spot on. Cheap to buy too, very reliable, I never had any trouble w/ mince.

For non-AF, the little cameras with the penta-mirror can be difficult (for me) to focus manually. I really wish they made the appropriate focus sensor on the viewing screen light up when in focus. I can't both look at the focus indicator spot on the screen and simultaneously see if the 'dot' at the bottom is lighting at the same time. Am I just stupid or how can you use it unless on a tripod?

Ok, after writing that diatribe on frustration, I was trying to use peripheral vision to detect the little dot and I think I can detect if it is lighting when watching the view screen focus indicator spot. Maybe with some more practice.

Tried this on F100 but, since it has three lights (two triangles and a circle) my peripheral vision can't tell which is which. The triangles should have been red and dot green.

 

[Huss]

Pleasing to see the F55 added to the mix here. I have that camera and would you believe, downgraded from the F80 on purpose. I loved the grid lines in the F80, that was a brilliant feature, but I think I prefer the F55 for its small size and light weight. I don't think I ever noticed difference in focus speed between the F55 and the F80, I will say, my F5 focuses much faster than my F55, though.

Nice!
I think that all these type of cameras should be 'pushed' to new film shooters, instead of things like K1000 etc.
There is nothing as disheartening as getting a roll of film back - after spending all that money on the film and processing - and seeing 'you' messed up.
With these AF slrs, first start in the P mode and see how good 'your' pics can be.
Then switch to manual and start screwing things up! At least beginners will have a base line.

 

[Paul Howell]

I agree, a good mid level 90s vintage AF 35mm are light, good glass and metering is usally spot on. I use S or P mode a lot, with my Minolta and Pentax bodies I get really constant negatives.

 

[KerrKid]

Nice!
I think that all these type of cameras should be 'pushed' to new film shooters, instead of things like K1000 etc.
There is nothing as disheartening as getting a roll of film back - after spending all that money on the film and processing - and seeing 'you' messed up.
With these AF slrs, first start in the P mode and see how good 'your' pics can be.
Then switch to manual and start screwing things up! At least beginners will have a base line.

There's a good argument for pushing them to Pentax P&S's, too, although the P&S's seem to be commanding higher and higher prices these days with a few exceptions. A Pentax Zoom 90WR can be had for cheap and is a very good camera.

The N80 is now suffering the Huss Effect on ebay. You know how these Influencers are. They buy a run-of-the-mill camera and post photos that only gifted aliens could take, and people swarm to the camera thinking they'll magically get the same results. Oh well.

As far as cameras for beginners in general, I totally agree that a camera that offers modes like the N-Series do makes a heck of a lot more sense than a K1000. I'd rather a beginner concentrate on subject matter and composition. No one needs more boring technically perfect photos. IMHO.

 

[Paul Howell]

In addition to the N80, N75 and F100, Minolta, Canon, a few of the Pentax 90s mid level cameras are still a bargain.

 

[ic-racer]

You're right. In fact, I had confused the n75 w/ the n70, which is what works better w/ non Nikon lenses. In fact, I don't even know if the n75 will meter w/ non Nikon lenses. My n70 did. It's so confusing!

Very confusing, part of the reason to start this thread; to sort out the different cameras with numbers that make no sense. I decided to learn only ONE Autofocus system. I don't know anything about Rebels and Maxxum, but I suspect all the Nikons have similar cameras in those systems. Those systems are just as hard to figure out.

For example, the F60 is an OLDER version of the F55 whereas the F75 is a BETTER and NEWER version. You need the chart below to figure it out.

Also, based on the chart, N8008 is at the same level as N80. Likely another great $20 high-end AF camera. Although seems many of the N8008 are heavily used, whereas the later cameras were purchased or received as gifts only to have the owner 'give up' on film and put the camera in a closet.

 

[Besk]

My N75 with 50/1.8 af lens, lenscap, arca plate and with film weighs only 24 ozs. I have a hard time matching that with a Leica CL & Lens.

For a P&S camera it can hardly be beat.

 

[ic-racer]

My oldest kids started on P&S cameras I bought at a drug store. I still have them and they are bad. Why? The pictures are all blurry; they are so small and light and, unless using 400 DX film, the shutter speed (even with flash!) is always too slow.

My younger kids all got to use the N55 and just to look at the negative sheets, one can tell it is a better camera. Most of the images are sharp and well exposed.

 

[Huss]

My oldest kids started on P&S cameras I bought at a drug store. I still have them and they are bad. Why? The pictures are all blurry; they are so small and light and, unless using 400 DX film, the shutter speed (even with flash!) is always too slow.

My younger kids all got to use the N55 and just to look at the negative sheets, one can tell it is a better camera. Most of the images are sharp and well exposed.

I think it is also the form factor. It is easier to hold an N55 steady vs a small p&S, because one pays more attention. At least that is my theory.

 

[ic-racer]

Just discovered something today.

The N75, when it is choosing which of the five focus spots to use, lights up the selected spot on the viewfinder. That is a nice feature, that way you can see which part of the scene it thinks should be in focus (when in that mode). I think this is a nice feature. Maybe only shared by the F6.

The N80, F100, F5 and maybe all others keep this little detail a secret. They do not let you know which of the focus zones they is using (when you are letting the camera make the choice)

 

[Moose22]

Yes, that's a good trick.

Mostly, I only use the F100 in single select because I want to know what spot is chosen. Though this is my way with most cameras, I have more trust in the F6 when letting it pick nearest subject. Small detail, but it is very nice.

I often argue with more feature rich cameras. Like I have to know how to convince them to do what I want done, where to focus, how to expose. A useful feature set without too much getting in the way, and enough feedback that you're confident in what you will get, is a pretty hard balance to achieve. N75 is surprisingly full featured for what it was.

 

[Huss]

That is neat that the N75 does that. I only use the center spot - even on my F6 - just because when I mess up, I like to know it's on me!

 

[Moose22]

After using MF and older AF cameras, you get in the mode of focusing from the center then composing. It happens that way by habit, enough that I forget to use the modern AF features even on my digital sometimes. But I get knowing it's on you, always a bit frustrating looking at shots that are focused on a flower or a table or something in front of the subject.

I had a "problem" with my N80 a couple days ago during an important portrait shot. Definitely on me, I had forgotten to switch the dial back to S from the timer mode. That's the magic of few menus and simple controls. The switch is right there, everything is uncluttered, figuring out what you did is super easy.

Still got the shot before the dog finished his whipped cream and came over to slobber on me.

 

[ic-racer]

When I got my first N75 in 2013 it was also my first AF camera and I only used it with center focus in single-servo mode. However, I have been trying to learn all the AF modes. It really gets confusing as each camera is a little different, f6 vs f100 vs n80 vs f75, etc. Among all those modes there are a few that may be valuable with quick-grab photography.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That is neat that the N75 does that. I only use the center spot - even on my F6 - just because when I mess up, I like to know it's on me!

When a choice of multiple spots are available, I choose the spot closest to the area of interest. I do not discriminate when it comes to spots.

 

[Huss]

Just discovered something today.

The N75, when it is choosing which of the five focus spots to use, lights up the selected spot on the viewfinder. That is a nice feature, that way you can see which part of the scene it thinks should be in focus (when in that mode). I think this is a nice feature. Maybe only shared by the F6.

The N80, F100, F5 and maybe all others keep this little detail a secret. They do not let you know which of the focus zones they is using (when you are letting the camera make the choice)

Hey! I just tested both my N80s and they DO light up the focus selector rectangle! In red. Also, the selected rectangle stays bolded while the others are faint so you always know which one is selected.

 

[ic-racer]

Hey! I just tested both my N80s and they DO light up the focus selector rectangle! In red. Also, the selected rectangle stays bolded while the others are faint so you always know which one is selected.

Yes, in fact I have my N80 around my neck now. But when you switch to "Dynamic AF" the indicator goes blank on the N80. Now try it on the N75, switch to "Dynamic AF" and the indicator still shows and automatically switches to the one the camera selected. The F6 is the only other Nikon Film camera that does that.

 

[ic-racer]

MB-16 (N80) Battery pack vs MB-18 (N75) Battery Pack

 

[ic-racer]

Both battery packs attach to the bottom of the camera and both have a shaft that extends into the battery compartment to make electrical contact with the camera.

Both batteries take four AA cells in a removable holder.

Advantages of the MB-18 (N75):

1) The battery door can stay attached to the camera. There is a slot in the battery holder to accept the open door.
2) The MB-18 has a hand-grip built in for vertical composition. This is very handy! You can't really grab the MB-16 (N80) that way, because if you do, there is no way to release the shutter. Which brings us to...
3) The MB-18 has an extra locking shutter release that falls under your index finger when holding the camera vertically.

I think most will agree the MB-18 is the clear winner.

The white cap on the MB-18 protects the contacts from shorting out in one's camera bag or accessory drawer. I suspect the MB-16 has something similar, but mine did not come with it.

 

[ic-racer]

Another advantage of the MB-18 is that it will attach to the bottom of the N55 too. However, in that case, the extra shutter release does not function.

 

[albireo]

a metal barrel with that rough Rhino Lining finish paint like the old-school pro Nikkor zooms.

Yeah..My 80-200 f/2.8D ED has that finish..Pity I never quite got along with it, superb finish. Other ones like that were the 105,135 defocus control primes and the 180 f/2.8D. I think some of the pro wideangle primes were like that too - wasn't there a 28mm f/1.4 AF D? Tempted..

 

[Huss]

I just got reminded again by the huge advantage the N80 has over the N75. You can set film speed manually. N75 is DX only.

Looking at my current film stash, Luminaire 100, Silberra Orto, Lomo Fantome and Babylon, Catlabs 320 and others need manual ISO setting.

 

[Besk]

I just got reminded again by the huge advantage the N80 has over the N75. You can set film speed manually. N75 is DX only.

Looking at my current film stash, Luminaire 100, Silberra Orto, Lomo Fantome and Babylon, Catlabs 320 and others need manual ISO setting.

It is true that the N75 is DX only. And that is a disadvantage. However, you can set exposure compensation to, in effect, get the speed you want.
I have had to do that with some pretty high end P&S cameras n the past.