The Fuji GW690ii vs GW690iii

[GLS]

At the moment I count 5 GW690s with the B mode on ebay, all in Japan. However none of them are in good shape, and a few of them look downright terrible (severe corrosion, fungus etc). The kicker though is ALL of them were listed as at least "excellent" condition.

 

[Prest_400]

II was probably the sweet spot. Metal exterior, shutter lock button. I didnt feel film loading was that difficult in II compared to III. Actually prefer the loading on the II compared to the pop out release buttons in III.

Are the mkI and II really metal in the exterior? I've never held one but from some auctions I got the impression it's some very hard plastic, as some sellers described cracking consistent with a non-metal material. I know that all the model have a metal chassis.

I'm an owner of a mkIII and would say the main advantage is in the loading simple, the button spring loaded locks simplify loading/unloading quite a bit. RF wise, the round spot is small and rather than contrast/clarity issues I'd say it's the small size that sometimes makes focus difficult. The viewfinder and frames are quite large, enough almost to not see the whole of it as I'm a glass wearer.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

At the moment I count 5 GW690s with the B mode on ebay, all in Japan. However none of them are in good shape, and a few of them look downright terrible (severe corrosion, fungus etc). The kicker though is ALL of them were listed as at least "excellent" condition.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fujifilm...rentrq:920bbfc51710ad3058500e74ffd83f67|iid:1

 

[GLS]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fujifilm-GW690III-6x9-Medium-Format-Vintage-film-camera-with-90mm-Lens/233559320920?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=225076&meid=02c7a22d5c684311aeff5eb3ea71a9b4&pid=100970&rk=2&rkt=7&mehot=pp&sd=382868561043&itm=233559320920&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci:fe79e4df-822a-11ea-8a5d-f2179c98068c|parentrq:920bbfc51710ad3058500e74ffd83f67|iid:1

Thanks but I'm not looking for a model III, because it has the dodgy T mode and built-in hood as we've been discussing in this thread.

 

[itsdoable]

If I may be frank, it seems like you're rationalising poor design here. Having to fudge imprecise and error-prone workarounds to a lack of hands-free shutter closure is crazy in such modern cameras IMO, especially ones which are otherwise so geared towards high quality results. The blocking the lens thing is all well and good if you have a very long exposure, but what if it's say 2 seconds long? Then I doubt very much one could reliably block the end of the lens with an object quickly and smoothly enough to not induce noticeable ghosting or shake in the final image.

No rationalization, I've actually used it for time exposures down to a few second. Why don't you try it and see if you have issues?

A cable release with a tensioned wire and spring is far from hands free, but good technique gives you good pictures. Same with the way "T" is implemented on these.

I'm not saying it's the best way to do thing, but it is what the designers decided to do (and Fujifilm did consulted the main users on the GW series). Like most things, its a matter of compromises, and if you learn to use it the way it was designed, you can get pictures that are reflective of the lens quality.

Like I said, I did not have issues with it. I'm not saying you don't have issues with it.

 

[narsuitus]

I purchased my Fuji GSW690III back when new ones were still being produced.

I have had no problems with the retracting lens hoods because I rarely use filters that require the lens hood be retracted.

I have no problems with the Timed shutter speed setting because it only gives me problems with shutter speeds between 2 and 6 seconds and I can usually avoid using those shutter speeds.

 

[Oren Grad]

Are the mkI and II really metal in the exterior?

No. The coverings for the generation I and II versions as well are indeed plastic.

 

[Karte]

No. The coverings for the generation I and II versions as well are indeed plastic.

Yes, you are correct. Not metal exterior, but the plastic outer shell or coat in I&II definetly feels much less plasticky compared to III.

Just a matter of personal preference between the models I guess. They all take fantastic pictures. Amazing 6x9 slides coming out of them.

 

[moto-uno]

^ Yes to the 6x9 slides , but no to projecting them at home . Peter

 

[Huss]

The GW 690 Fujis need to be very carefully loaded to prevent fat rolls. It mentions it in the owner's manual:

To prevent the film from becoming loose again when the camera back is being closed, use the film advance lever to keep the leader paper taut until you snap the camera back into place.

The GWs are the only cameras that have fat rolled me.. Never had an issue with any of my other MF cameras.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

The GW 690 Fujis need to be very carefully loaded to prevent fat rolls. It mentions it in the owner's manual:

To prevent the film from becoming loose again when the camera back is being closed, use the film advance lever to keep the leader paper taut until you snap the camera back into place.

The GWs are the only cameras that have fat rolled me.. Never had an issue with any of my other MF cameras.

This is also very true in regards to the GX617. I have to keep tension on mine slightly with the lever when closing, and then wind on to start - or it will definitely fatroll.

Jeremy

 

[DREW WILEY]

I own a GW690ii, love it, and am about to supplement it with a newer GW690iii. The differences are very minor, with slightly better odds of getting a low-mileage camera in the later iii version, though if you encounter a lightly used ii version, it will probably be a hundred dollars or so less. I lucked out on a ii which had an immaculate main lens and clean inside, but a number of cosmetic scuffs to the body which brought the price way down. Sometimes it's nice to have a functional "beater" camera that you don't have to get paranoid about if it gets another minor scuff or scrape on the body, especially since I take these things into mountain storm conditions and so forth. The lack of a true T setting is a minor annoyance; but so far, it hasn't lost me any shots. Like all wide-angle lenses, the biggest concern is flare when aimed toward the sun. The retracting hoods on both models cause a tiny bit of vignetting to the lower corner of the rangefinder view with full 6x9 when the hood is extended. Again, a minor nuisance I quickly got accustomed to. I haven't had any problems loading film.

 

[Carterofmars]

The way it's implemented results in the shutter speed and aperture controls being recessed and awkward to manipulate. Beside being a nuisance generally, this also makes the workings of the T setting even more clumsy, because one of the ways of ending a T exposure - changing to a different shutter speed setting - is even harder to do without jarring the camera.

How about covering the lens, then changing the speed to stop the exposure? This will solve the shake issue.

-Joe

 

[Moose22]

How about covering the lens, then changing the speed to stop the exposure? This will solve the shake issue.

-Joe

That's how I do it. It's not super smooth, but a hat over the lens is an old school way to finish exposure.

 

[Carterofmars]

Fuji GW690II- Without film in the camera, you cannot press down the shutter release unless you open the camera back. But, I also notice that with back open, and when depressing the shutter release, looking through the lens, I'm not seeing the aperture open. I hear the snap of the release, but not seeing it open and close.

Question: is this expected behavior?

- Joe

 

[Dan Daniel]

Fuji GW690II- Without film in the camera, you cannot press down the shutter release unless you open the camera back. But, I also notice that with back open, and when depressing the shutter release, looking through the lens, I'm not seeing the aperture open. I hear the snap of the release, but not seeing it open and close.

Question: is this expected behavior?

- Joe

No, not expected behavior.

Lens cap?

Try different speeds to see if any of them let light through. Best to have aperture wide open just because it makes it easier to be certain.

 

[Carterofmars]

No, not expected behavior.

Lens cap?

Try different speeds to see if any of them let light through. Best to have aperture wide open just because it makes it easier to be certain.

Cap was removed and I did try with several different speeds. I just purchased and hoping not a problem here.

I'm going to retest in a bit on each speed and report back here.

 

[reddesert]

If you have a roll of backing paper saved from a previous 120 film, you can load the camera with that to check the shutter and frame counting operation without wasting any film. I always save some backing paper and spools for this.

 

[Carterofmars]

If you have a roll of backing paper saved from a previous 120 film, you can load the camera with that to check the shutter and frame counting operation without wasting any film. I always save some backing paper and spools for this.

I don't. Just fresh rolls.

You think the frame count operation and shutter advance, and won't open, without being loaded?

 

[Carterofmars]

Pics below... I'm seeing what looks like oil on the shutter. That would stick the shutter correct?

Otherwise the aperture should open and close on the 690.

Opinions appreciated.

 

[Carterofmars]

After a few minutes of advancing and hitting shutter release, it looked to start working for about 10 clicks and then seized up again. Notice leafs in shutter in pic below.

 

[Carterofmars]

I've started ebay proceedings already to return to Japan. Really too bad. It's in beautiful condition aesthetically.

As I recall from my old shooting days, this would be too expensive to service lens.

 

[reddesert]

I don't. Just fresh rolls.

You think the frame count operation and shutter advance, and won't open, without being loaded?

No, I don't think that it's normal. I have a G690 which is different from the GW690, so I don't want to utter certainties. The paper is a good way to check operation and I try to do that with every 120 camera I get, or to test loading if I haven't used a camera for a while, since they are all a little different.

 

[OAPOli]

The shutter should fire when the back is open. It does on the iii version. And yes such residues (pic no1) can cause the shutter to stick. I had a few lenses with similar deposits which caused the shutter to fire with a slight delay. I was able to clean it but access was much simpler than on the GW690. Sorry for the issues! It's unfortunate that the seller didn't catch it.

 

[Huss]

I've started ebay proceedings already to return to Japan. Really too bad. It's in beautiful condition aesthetically.

As I recall from my old shooting days, this would be too expensive to service lens.

Japan seller? Let me guess, described as Mint ++++ ?