The Case for Pyro developer in 400TMY-2?

[DanielStone]

PYRO:

to use it or to not use it, that is the question.......

I have had very fine results so far in just D-76(actually NACCO Super 76) diluted 1:4(1:1 in D76).

so far with sheet film while beginning to use a very meager "zone system", i have had no problems so far in my jobo.

I have never used pyro, in particular PMK Pyro.

What is it that makes people flock to use it? I haven't seen any noticeable grain even at 16x20 sized prints from 4x5 negs...

Some insight would be appreciated before i go and plop down 30-40 dollars for the PMK liquid kit at Freestyle.



p.s. what does the 2-bath development do, other than make exposure times longer and stain the negative? I know you need a non-hardening fixer as well, which one would you reccomend?

thanks

dan

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

If D76 works for you - don't change.

Why are you investigating a new developer if the one you are already using works for you? If it's for kicks - fine. But try to investigate how you use D76 by varying dilution, agitation, film exposure, and time before you jump ship.

 

[luis ducoing]

I just tried PMK pyro for the first time, the other developer that I am familiar with is D-76, wich works well for me. I dont know why I wanted to try pyro if I am just learning to use D-76, maybe because I have seen it mentioned in many posts, I used TF-4 fixer and did the second bath in the developer afther the fix like it says in the instructions. most of my negatives came out realy flat and dificult to print. I made the mistake of developing all of the rolls of a weekend trip in PMK, I realy dont know for wich situations you would like this effect. I learned that I am stiking with D-76 untill I have more experience.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10514303@N05/

 

[Mahler_one]

Stay with D76 as per the other posts...you will read many different opinions about the merits and demerits of Pyro. Be prepared to wade through reams of posts....still, as Thomas has said, why change something that works perfectly for you? As someone has mentioned to me several times, you will not be "more of a photographer" just because you use Pyro.

 

[david b]

If you are looking for something for the sake of something, try TMY2 in xtol 1+1. It is rather nice.

 

[DanielStone]

If you are looking for something for the sake of something, try TMY2 in xtol 1+1. It is rather nice.

i'll try that. thanks guys! if anyone else wants to add, please add! =)

 

[john_s]

PMK will give a loss of speed and some effects in printing on VC papers that might be desirable or not, depending on the subject. When printing on VC papers it can produce marvellous detail in highlights that would normally be blown out, such as windows in church interiors, or sunlit waves.

 

[Shawn Dougherty]

I've been shooting TMY2 in 120 and developing in Rodinal using various methods of semi-stand with outstanding results and exposing 1 click under box speed. I expose on the generous side though... Probably the best negatives (technically) I've made so far.

I have two friends who have been developing it in Pyrocat HD using semi-stand and their prints are beautiful. I've also seen it developed with Pyrocat HD in a tray and that was nice...

Seems like it's just an incredible film and capable of outstanding results in many different developers. As others have said, probably best to learn it really well with one or two. Of course if it's in the sake of fun and curiosity there's nothing wrong with that either. Best of luck with whatever you decide. Shawn

 

[MikeSeb]

I like 400TMY-2 so much that I after I use up the rest of my B&W films, it will become my mainstay, if not my only, B&W film. (Well, I'll keep some 320TXP and 100TMX on hand, just in case....) Best all-around B&W film I've ever used.

Looks great in D-76, I think a hair better than it does in Xtol. IMHO. It also looks very good in TMax developer, which I think is underrated (besides being pricey.)

But if I had to pick only one: D-76.

 

[c6h6o3]

The biggest advantage to pyro developers, imho, is increased accutance. More grain, but sharp as a razor. I mostly contact print, so grain is never an issue.

If you are going to try it, I would strongly urge you not to use PMK, which has metol in it. This tends to mush things up at the molecular level in order to achieve finer grain, thereby nullifying what I consider to be the major benefit of pyro. I'd choose Pyrocat-HD instead. It's also an excellent pyro developer for anyone who wishes to make negatives which can be both contact printed and enlarged. Get it from Bostick & Sullivan for top-notch quality.

 

[jgjbowen]

I'd second Pyrocat HD. I haven't tried it with TMY-2 yet, (because I have a 5 year + supply of TMY in the Freezer) but it is a great developer for TMY.

Best,

 

[sun of sand]

I'm starting to use Pyro and Rodinal excluding all others except for maybe Edwal 12 which I also really like -but haven't done more than maybe 20 real negs in it
Starting to get into real zone system rather than half "meager" stepping it -even if those 1/2 steps are in reality full steps "real zone system technique"
I've used a homemade Julia Child bomb type ABC pyro (little bit of this and touch of that) which really turned out just fine IMO giving very "clean" negatives and now a proper PMK formulation which seems to give more base fog than ABC but stains just as well and works well so far with stand development -every 15 minutes agitation for an hour+

Pyro probably doesn't benefit me too much in taming large EV differences in nature around here -yet to see a scene needing N-2
Los Angeles on the beaches of Santa Monica or Oceanside perhaps .or Death Valley

Pyro/Rodinal/Edwal 12 may just be the only developers I use for all film format forever
Really nice looks and nice sharpness all of them with only drawbacks being health concerns of the Pyro and E12 and speed losses
Pyro and Rodinal are also very economical





Another developer I tried out was a glycin only developer which turned out very sharp perhaps sharper than my bomb ABC pyro I "tested" it against but wasn't as clean a developer due at least in part to using 300 year old glycin ..but it did work and is probably worth trying with fresh Glycin someday


Anyway
I'll never be a hardcore technician so don't trust me or my figures
I just go with my instincts
The one developer I have an instinct to "never" use again eventhough I used it for two years almost exclusively with no real negatives against it
Xtol
Just don't see anything real great about it
tonality
sharpness even at 1:3
Just don't like it anymore/Very solid all-around developer, though