Tell Me What I'm Doing Wrong Focusing - Rate These Terrible Photos

Duceman

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brbo said:
If you are producing this kind of camera shake (perfectly distributed in all direction) at 1/500s, you have a natural gift nobody on this planet have...
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grat said:
1/500 and 1/125 shouldn't be camera shake...
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To the extent that each photo here was presumably taken with the 80mm, I find it hard to believe that 1/125, and more so the 1/500, shutter speed would produce the blur, especially consistently from photo to photo. The majority of my Hasselblad shots have been handheld, with the 80mm, with shutter speeds down to 1/60, and I don't recall ever having this issue (and I don't claim to have the steadiest hand). This would lead me to believe the mirror placement may be off (but as others have commented, there should be something in focus, unless the true focal plane is all forward of the subjects).

OP: If all these shots were from the same lens, have you tried using the other lens? Also, do you know of any other Hasselblad users in your AO from which you can swap body/lenses to see if you can determine if it's an issue with your lens and/or camera body?
 

Light Capture

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Technically, there are several possibilities.

First and most likely is top mint condition. Top mint usually means that it sat in the closet or in a cabinet for many many years.
With original Hasselblad lubricants their recommendation was that lenses should be exercised monthly. If camera is not used regularly, there is separation of lubricants to oil and solids.
Some lubricants have useful lifetime. Due to this speeds are likely of and might be an issue. Motion blur is visible on very high magnifications at 1/500 but shouldn't be readily visible on any magnifications up to 10x.

Second one is that foam under mirror deteriorated and mirror is sitting down in it's frame. You can push on the mirror lightly with plastic or wood stick and see if it springs back. It will cause focusing error.

Third - it's not possible to focus these cameras accurately without magnifier. Older WLF is 2.5x and latest version comes with 4.5x magnifier. PM5 prism comes with magnification of 3x. If you shoot wide open and rely on focusing at this magnification of maximum of 4.5x, 10x or 20x magnified prints or images will likely be disappointment.

It takes impeccable technique to extract what this system is capable of delivering. Handholding will produce useable results down to 1/60s with practice for stationary subjects (mirror lockup needs to be used while handholding - frame, hold steady, mirror up and release). 1-2cm front/back movement or focusing inaccuracy will be visible.

Diopter on the prism is not original and should be matched to your vision requirements or plain one can be used with glasses if necessary. Diopter is good when markings on focusing screen are clear and sharp.

Testing focusing with focusing target would show where is the issue. Camera needs to be on tripod and 150mm lens is better choice since DOF is much smaller. It will be easier to see deviations.
Testing shutter can be done with shutter tester or target that is uniform. Target images can be scanned without corrections (manual exposure locked) and loaded to editing software. Histogram will allow you to judge the accuracy.
This won't show everything since shutter speeds can also be unstable.
 

Truzi

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I'll echo the comments about testing with a tripod. Sacrifice some film using a tripod, it should be a quick and easy way to narrow down the issue.

When I first used medium format I had trouble adjusting to the smaller DOF compared to 35mm. I messed up photos by moving just a little bit after focusing. I had to learn to be extra still when hand-holding, or using a tripod more often.
 

Sirius Glass

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All good advice given above. What speed film are you using? I use Kodak Tri-X 400 and Kodak Portra 400 so I start off with higher shutter speeds and greater depth of field. Shoot some faster film, use a tripod while you are getting used to the equipment and we can take this a step at a time.
 

shutterfinger

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AKG414 said:
Acute Matte D with split-image focus ring (42170)
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I have never got good focus using a split image focusing screen in any camera. The work well in some lighting situations but do not respond well to very subtle shifts in focus. I either replace the focus screen with a mat screen or use the mat area next to the split image ring.
A good monopod will be an asset. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1291111-REG/manfrotto_mpmxproa4us_aluminum_xpro_monopod.html I use older version of this one.
Take a breath, let it out half way, hold, gently depress the shutter release, continue breathing when the camera operation completes.
If using the Focal Plane Shutter on the Speed Graphic it takes 45 to 55 milliseconds for the aperture to travel the length of the film plane. That's the equivalent of shooting at 1/2 second hand held, correction that's 1/15 o 1/25 second hand held.
 
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AKG414

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Thanks everyone for all this very informative help - I REALLY appreciate it. So I have some takes aways here:
1. Retake the photos with a tripod, for sure!
2. Find a good Hassy Tech and have the camera fully worked over, so reconcile the mint-condition gear and optimal performance
3. Development was at home with Cinestil DF96 Monobath & Scanned with an Epson V600
4. I'll get the negative posted - I'll have to get them and use Negative Lab Pro, to flip them back since the Epson does everything in one shot. But looking at them with a loupe, they pretty much the same.

Can anyone recommend one of those focus-testers I see that has scales to show the focal plane to & fro ?
What Loupe's is everyone using - power and are you using adjustable-focus models? Looking for some recommendations on them as well. Currently I have a Peak 5x fixed.
 

MattKing

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AKG414 said:
4. I'll get the negative posted - I'll have to get them and use Negative Lab Pro, to flip them back since the Epson does everything in one shot.
Click to expand...
Don't use a scanner.
Use a digital camera/cel phone and show us a backlit photo of the negatives.
A scanner will add a bunch of adjustments, whether you want it to or not.
 

MattKing

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AKG414 said:
3. Development was at home with Cinestil DF96 Monobath
Click to expand...
We have seen a lot of unpredictable results from this (along with some good ones).
 

shutterfinger

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AKG414 said:
Scanned with an Epson V600
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MattKing said:
Don't use a scanner.
Click to expand...
In EpsonScan click on the Configuration box at the bottom of the professional mode page, click on the color tab and select No Color Correction with the auto exposure at center/default position.
Select Positive film. Place the negatives on the glass in line with the transparency light, scan at 600 to 1200 dpi. This will give as close to a raw scan as possible with the V600.
Windows OS, Mac similar.
 

itsdoable

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The pictures are too low res to tell for sure, but I'd tend to agree witht he previous posts.

Focusing: Can you see the etched lines on the focus screen? If they do not appear perfectly sharp, then you need to correct that first. A 1 diopter correction lens is for someone that is mildly farsighted (Please see my correction in the thread on diopters). A +3 diopter is for someone that is quite farsighted. Do you wear corrective lenses, and what is the correction? are you planning to wear them while using the finder - because then you should be using a 0 or -1 diopter.

To check your focus, shoot wide open at a perpendicular target on the ground that has some good texture (the Graflex pictures is not bad), that will show you how good your focusing is with that camera, but if it is off, you still have to determine if the camera screen is out of calibration. Consistent back or front focus usually means the camera needs calibration.


Here is an (poor) example of a focus test on a Hasselblad 2.8/80, you can see the focus plane in the carpet cuts just in front of the target box - this is about as good as I can optically focus a Hasselblad camera, getting it bang on is very difficult.

Medium format is also very demanding on technique, both focusing and stabilization - your shots do look like motion blur, but it's hard to tell with the low resolution.

Also, as previous posters asked, how are you digitizing the negative? If that shot of the graflex is really at 1/500, then it should be mostly free of motion blur and you should be able to delineate the zone of focus in the carpet (f/2.8 would be better). Digitization is another photographic step that demands good technique, and poorly digitized negatives can really fail a good negative.
 

4season

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I think there's supposed to be foam behind the Hasselblad mirrors, and if it's deteriorated, your focusing accuracy may be off. "Top mint" usually just refers to the cosmetics, and if the camera hasn't been serviced in decades, it may be overdue.
 

eli griggs

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Steady support with tri or mono pod and use a long enough shutter release to avoid tugging on set-up.

Also, pick up some single 'powet' neutral density filters and use them, often.

I was shooting handheld yesterday, at the last hour of the sunlight and one photograph of a backlit flag was shot at 1/500 sec at F11, F16, which was way more depth of field than I liked, given the scene, and wished I was no in such a hurry, no for the first time, that I could no grab a N.D. filter, for a full range of choices in time, apertures.

Having a tripod and, a range of settings will allow you to invest more time in getting the shot you want, no the shot your camera, lens and film speed will allow you.

Slow down, when able, the only one on a time clock is your pre-shot angst.

IMO and IME(xperience)!
 

Jeremy Mudd

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AKG414 said:
Can anyone recommend one of those focus-testers I see that has scales to show the focal plane to & fro ?
Click to expand...

There are free downloads (Tamron) that you can search for and use. You can print them up and build a cardboard tester with them on it at a 45 degree angle.

That said, the other way to do it is to use a long ruler, like a yardstick, and put it in a chair or against a wall so that its at a 45 degree angle, then focus on the midpoint line, whatever that may be depending on ruler length, and take the shot wide open. So for example, if you focused on the 18" mark, once you develop and scan, take a look to see where that plane of sharpness sits. Before 18" is front-focusing, behind 18" is back-focusing. Either way you'd need to have it looked at. I've used this method to fine-tune long lenses for wildlife photography.

Jeremy
 

AgX

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If a mark at the ruler is not good to see in the finder, fix a little piece of carboard to thre ruler with a sharp mark on, better to see in the finder. Focus on this, and take a photo at same aperture as used for focusing. Note the the location of your mark at the ruler. Later at the processed photo check where the sharpest ruler mark is located. If not at same position as your mark,. the film plane and the screen plane are not congruent anymore.
 
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AKG414

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Here is my latest test roll and all info on the pics:

Fomapan 120, 100 ISO film (B&W)
Every shot was using Mirror-Lockup, a cable shutter-release and mounted on a tripod
Scanned on Epson v600
Home Developed in Cinestil Monobath (for 30 EXTRA SECONDS, to see if it would bring out some more contrast)


PHOTO INFO MAP
-------------------------------------
Photo1: 1/4 second | f/16 | Lathe
Photo2: 1/2 second | f/16 | PC Screen
Photo3: 1/4 second | f/16 | Collets
Photo4: (1s) second | f/16 | Mill Machine
Photo5: 1/4 second | f/11 | Cloth
Photo6: (4s) second | f/11 | Tormach CNC
Photo7: 1/30 second | f/2.8 | Clips on desk
Photo8: (1s) second | f/16 | SO Grinder
Photo9: 1/30 second | f/11 | Portrait
Photo10: 1/2 second | f/11 | Wreath
Photo11: 1/4 second | f/11 | Guitar
Photo12: 1/125 second | f/4 | Portrait

80mm ZEISS lens
https://link.shutterfly.com/DvpA3ufiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/hfmzbOiiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/PBsNekkiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/BJeYN7liRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/SlGAzhoiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/ALGJsqpiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/YvQqgvriRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/8Lze87siRnb

150mm ZEISS lens (remaining pics below)
https://link.shutterfly.com/zG55YbviRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/iLSkoWyiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/zKe2V5AiRnb
https://link.shutterfly.com/YpoOKfCiRnb


I know my METERING needs a lot of practice and so much to learn. These pics are all inside, during overcast winter days. Maybe its a combo of all these factors that is making for some really dark and dreary photos. But it's enough to really have me pretty bummed out not know what else I can do to ensure I focused picture. So I'm really excited to see what everyone thinks and their feedback.
 
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faberryman

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The first thing that strikes me even before looking at your images is that all the test shots were taken at f:/16, which means that depth of field could easily mask focusing errors. I then looked at some of your images and concluded that if you use mirror lockup and mount your camera on a tripod, camera shake is not an issue, which is what you would expect.
 

BrianShaw

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I only looked at a couple of your latest pictures and quickly concluded that you really need to seek professional help for that camera. Something is seriously amiss. Have the body serviced; you’ll save yourself a lot of future frustrations.

unless, of course, the problem is the scanner. Have you examined the negs on a light table with a loupe?
 

Saganich

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Nothing to add but that I had a similar experience with a mint 500 and scratched my head about it for a year before sending it to NJ. When it came back with a new spring, new seals, adjusted back, adjusted mirror, etc, etc, etc, it met the expectations. I've subsequently come to understand that "mint" has nothing to do with "functioning to factory specifications". Welcome to the world of old and beautiful cameras.
 
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AKG414

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Woops - my mistake, I just updated them (copy & paste type-O). The real aperture settings are now there.
 
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AKG414

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I just had Hasselblad email the form for a proper CLA. Going to take the plunge.
 
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AKG414

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Yeah there's a lot that are really bad. I think I pulled maybe 2 or 3 that were focused, but they all were pretty poorly metered.
 

Dwight Anderson

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I recently had to replace my scanner, a Canonscan 8800F. It used to produce wonderfully sharp images from my dad's old Kodachrome's, but I hadn't used it in years. I recently tried shooting with some old box cameras and wasn't surprised they weren't sharp, but scanned a few slides and found out the focus was way off. I tested by marking some cellophane tape with a pencil and putting it on an empty slide. Then I just raised the slide with playing cards, starting flat on the glass. It turns out it was focusing below the glass and tweaking the scanner lens mount got it just to the glass surface. Still not good enough for slides, plus I am planning to do some large format, so I got an Epson V850.

I don't know what caused the focus shift, but it's worth checking. There doesn't seem to be any areas in your photos that are sharp.
 

brbo

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Before spending big $$$ on repair I'd shoot a roll of colour negative film and have it processed and scanned at a good lab. This all seems to me like a scanner issue...
 

Sirius Glass

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I agree with Brian. The camera body needs to be set on the Hasselblad jig tool and realigned, then the focusing screen must be properly adjusted. I recommend that you send it to Hasselblad New Jersey or other Hasselblad certified repair man. I personally use Samy's Camera on Fairfax in Los Angeles or Steve's Camera in Culver City California which Brian recommended to my many years ago.

It is not uncommon for Hasselblad and other cameras to get out of alignment. Fortunately this can be easily remedied with the right tools and skilled hands.
 
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AKG414

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Yeah, that's comforting to hear - and my plans as well. I'm curious if I should include my lenses as well and have them go over them? Would they calibrate a lens to a body or do the lenses just undergo a overall wellness check?
 
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