Tell Me What I'm Doing Wrong Focusing - Rate These Terrible Photos

AKG414 · Feb 18, 2022

Hi,

So I'm pretty new to manual film cameras. I come from the very automatic world of Digital with autofocus and every other tech feature. I got sick of it and wanted old school. So I bought 2 camera systems: 1. Hasselblad 500/cm and 2. Graflex 4x5.

I sold my Digital gear and spent a lot of money on all TOP MINT gear:
500/cm body
A-2 ll backs
80mm CF, & 150mm CF lenses (looked like they were fresh off the factory floor)
Acute Matte D with split-image focus ring (42170)
PM5 with +1 diopter
Replacement +3 diopter (for prism that was useless to my eyes)

I'm pretty well discouraged at this point because after 5 rolls of film, metering with a Sekonic L508 spot meter and using a tripod and some handheld, I have not gotten one single shot that made me smile. A Lot of my stuff has been shot inside stuck due to snow and super cold temps.

I'm totally open and wanting (no, HOPING) someone will tell me some stupid mistake I'm making because I'm ready to sell it all fearing my eyes are just too bad. I didn't take one image with the prism because the +1 diopter is too blurry. Not super blurry, but nowhere sharp enough to nail focus.

Here's my pics and I'll describe the best of memory the specs around the shots. One other note is that they look even worse using the upload-image utility. I'll need to create a Shuttfly or some other website to share the links.

All pics were shot (with what I thought was fast enough for handheld). All shots were focused to clearly using the split ring until it was FLAWLESS (to my eyes). So with all that high end equipment, and not getting a usable image, my first thought was to blame the equipment which is ludicrous, so I'm obviously screwing up something that I'm hoping someone will be able to point out. Thanks so much for taking the time to look!!

1/500 handheld, Tmax 400 film, f/11 (due to how bright it was)

Hardinge lathe in my shop: 1/125 handheld, Tmax 400 film, f/8. Dead nuts focused on the middle tool post.

Graflex speed graphic in my foyer - lots of mid day sunlight
1/500 handheld, Tmax 400 film, f/8 Focused dead nuts on the front (3rd) bellow

Fender strat in my office
1/125 handheld, Tmax 400 film, f/5.6 focus dead-nuts on the 12th fret.

MattKing · Feb 19, 2022

Try duplicating some of these shots on a tripod, because I think what you are seeing is the result of camera movement at time of exposure.
If you get good results working that way, we can give you some suggestions about handheld technique with a Hasselblad 500 series camera.
If not, there may be something wrong with your camera.
One further request: may we see a backlit photo of the negatives themselves, so we can evaluate exposure and development?

AKG414 · Feb 19, 2022

MattKing said:
Try duplicating some of these shots on a tripod, because I think what you are seeing is the result of camera movement at time of exposure.
If you get good results working that way, we can give you some suggestions about handheld technique with a Hasselblad 500 series camera.
If not, there may be something wrong with your camera.
One further request: may we see a backlit photo of the negatives themselves, so we can evaluate exposure and development?

Hi Matt - thanks for the reply. When you say a backlit photo of the negs, do you mean a pic of the actual negative, before they're inverted?

Moose22 · Feb 19, 2022

AKG414 said:
do you mean a pic of the actual negative, before they're inverted?

Exactly that

shutterfinger · Feb 19, 2022

1. DOF in medium and large format is shallower than full frame/APS C sensor/ 35mm film.
2. Lathe photo=camera shake!
3. DOF; first Graphic I've seen with the rangefinder, optical viewfinder, FPS control on the left.
4. Guitar=DOF.
5. A blank text document on your monitor at full screen with the negatives in front of it or similar will work for a light box to photograph the negatives on.

MattKing · Feb 19, 2022

Please be sure to include the film rebate and the space between frames.

MattKing · Feb 19, 2022

Something like this post from foc: [URL="https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/c41-developing-pink-magenta-stain-issue-on-some-frames-of-the-film.188510/#post-2495738"]C41 developing - Pink/Magenta stain issue on some frames of the film[/URL]

btaylor · Feb 19, 2022

All of the above, plus you should have your camera checked by a competent Hasselblad technician. You may not have focal plane/focus screen agreement which will mean your shots will be out of focus. That’s what was wrong with mine.

Individual One · Feb 19, 2022

Hi. Presuming that the pictures come from scanned negatives, I would have a close look at your scanner settings (except for the one of the lathe, that looks like camera movement). Is the negative at best focus? Mine (Epson flatbed) has adjustable shims on the negative carrier and it makes a difference. Also look at sharpening settings, if any, in the scanner software.

edit: I realized too late that this is an all analog portion of the forum, so my speculation should be incorrect.

250swb · Feb 19, 2022

There is an element of poor post processing involved (assuming they have been scanned), which accounts for flat images with little sharpening. But the clue to the overall problem is held in the caption to every picture and encapsulated in one word, 'handheld'. God, or somebody, invented tripods for a reason that hasn't ever gone away.

BMbikerider · Feb 19, 2022

Looking at your pictures, the only one that I would say is sharp is the 1st one with tree branches. The others all show what I would describe as camera shake. If you used a tripod did you also use a cable release?

I think lack of focus when scanning can be discounted. Even on an Epson Flatbed with their quite rudimentary negative holders, images of this size are always going to show if they are sharp or not. I scan 120 negs from a Bronica and if the negative is sharp (mine usually will be) then an A3 print will also be sharp. No maybe's - they will be sharp.

Have you ever tried looking directly at the negatives via a powerful magnifier. You have a ready made one by using the 80mm lens on the Hassie. Look at a definite edge on the negative if it is sharp then the fault will lie with the scanner. If it isn't sharp then it is almost certainly camera shake. Looking directly at the negative rather than after scanning removes all 3rd party interferences. I a light bulb.t is best when looking at them via a lens it is best to use a diffused bright light, not at a bulb.

markbau · Feb 19, 2022

FWIW, I can't recall the last time I didn't use a tripod and cable release for my Pentax 67. It goes with the Medium Format territory. As someone else said, do the same pics with a tripod and see the difference. You are using some of the best lenses on earth. The pic of the guitar is curious, you said you got one of the frets tack sharp but none of them are. Has to be camera movement. Also keep your apertures around f8 when possible, wide open and fully closed down will not give you sharp images.

shuddered · Feb 19, 2022

if you do not have a 3legged friend a bean bag works well to hold a camera in place. if you have to hand hold lean hard against a tree pole wall chair something with inertia to takeyourshake hold your breath exhale slow and push the button. nice photos even like bond said shakennotstirred. instead of a scanner tape your negatives on a white piece of paper on a northfacingwindow and use your cellphone to scan'em. unless you are making posters a sellfone snapshot is ok for internet. don't be timid jump in with 2feet no rulesinart

BMbikerider · Feb 19, 2022

markbau said:
FWIW, I can't recall the last time I didn't use a tripod and cable release for my Pentax 67. It goes with the Medium Format territory. As someone else said, do the same pics with a tripod and see the difference. You are using some of the best lenses on earth. The pic of the guitar is curious, you said you got one of the frets tack sharp but none of them are. Has to be camera movement. Also keep your apertures around f8 when possible, wide open and fully closed down will not give you sharp images.

It may be the case if you are used to it, but changing from a digital about the size of a normal 35mm camera will be quite different.This will be especially obvious if you are using lenses with some of anti shake.technology. Also rely upon the good old advice of not letting your shutter speed drop below that of the focal length to 'help' get the images sharp. So for a 200mm use at least 1/250th, for an 80mm use 1/125th so on and so forth. Old advice is generally well tried and tested to stand the passage of time.

brbo · Feb 19, 2022

If you are producing this kind of camera shake (perfectly distributed in all direction) at 1/500s, you have a natural gift nobody on this planet have...

bdial · Feb 19, 2022

As some others have said, the major technical flaw I see is motion blur. So, your camera-holding/shutter-press technique may need some work.
There could be issues with the camera too, shooting a roll using a tripod will help narrow things down.

shuddered · Feb 19, 2022

gummy lubricants and hobby repair people who use the wrong oils and or damage lenses with lighter fluid cause shudders to click at the wrong speeds maybe it is not your caffeene intake after all

brbo · Feb 19, 2022

Yes, I wonder who ever managed to produce such nice gaussian blur camera shake at 1/500s that this became the #1 suspect...

Very dense negatives would indicate lens shutter problem. Scanning is another possibility since dust on film doesn't seem sharp either. Mirror position/focusing screen would also affect focusing so taking a test photo of a distant object at lens' hard stop at infinity should give more information. If the picture is sharp it could either be mirror or focusing screen.

gone · Feb 19, 2022

The cameras/lens seems to have a focusing problem. Make sure that focus screen is fully seated. You aren't going to get camera shake at 1/500, maybe at 1/125, it's pretty unusual. If you're not familiar w/ checking the camera out (and a Hassy could have a host of things off that might cause issues, those are complicated cameras), I'd send it off to be checked. With that kind of investment in your gear, I'd make sure it's 100% operating right.

jeffreyg · Feb 19, 2022

Since you are looking for something simple .. Are all the images on the same roll ? When you loaded the film was the edge under the part (for the lack of a better term) that holds the film flat ? Make test rolls with the camera on a tripod use a cable release and photograph with the focus on something with a sharp edge use both lenses at the same setting combinations and subject. My guess it would be unlikely that both lenses are off. Make sure the focusing screen is in right side up -- I think I recall that there is a top side but i may be wrong on that. Take notes on each frame so if some are okay and others not you may be able to narrow down the problem. You might try an exposure with the mirror locked up as well.

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Andrew O'Neill · Feb 19, 2022

The tree image looks pretty good, as well as the Graflex, but I bet they would be sharper with a tripod, and a cable release. That could be the problem.

grat · Feb 19, 2022

1/500 and 1/125 shouldn't be camera shake (although photo #2 does look like camera shake). And if the shutter were sticking, the pictures should be heavily overexposed. And if the focus was being missed, I would expect there to be a plane of sharp focus somewhere in the image.

The only reasonably sharp photo (the tree) was taken at a distance (although the image is somewhat low resolution, making it tough to be certain).

The OP didn't specify whether the film was self-developed or lab developed, or how the images were digitized. I can believe the graflex and the guitar weren't in focus when scanned, but that doesn't explain the tree being that sharp.

Could be the film isn't under the gate inside the film holder, but I'm not familiar enough with the Hasselblad backs to know what effect that would have.

Pieter12 · Feb 19, 2022

Not familiar with the Hasselblad, but is the focusing screen installed right way up? And how is your eyesight? Are you using the magnifier?

snusmumriken · Feb 19, 2022

I reckon it’s camera shake. The lathe photo shows double outlines.

SchwinnParamount · Feb 19, 2022

It seems to me that the tree image is simply a matter of incorrect focus. If you look at the shingles on the roof behind the tree, you'll see better sharpness. Zooming in on the lathe picture, you definitely see the effects of camera shake. There is a rectangular black part with a white outline which is clearly a double image where the 2nd image is offset up-right.

Tell Me What I'm Doing Wrong Focusing - Rate These Terrible Photos

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