Talk me out of a Rollei 6000 series camera

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Kodachromeguy

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I have always admired the SL66. It is mechanical, but I do not know who repairs/overhauls them now in USA. I remember seeing the SL66 in Harvard Square, Massachusetts (Haavaad Squayah) in 1969 or 1970, when it was still a new product. Of course, the price was way beyond what this high school student could afford. And regardless, I did not know anything about film sizes or medium format.

Beware, it is a bulkier and heavier unit that the Hasselblad 500 equivalent. Still. if I could find a SL66 or one of the the later versions in top working condition.....
 

ic-racer

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I’m liking all the replies but there doesn’t seem to be a clear consensus ☹️

Medium format SLR cameras are perhaps the most complex electro-mechanical film cameras ever devised. Using any of them needs to be a 'labor of love.'
 

Sirius Glass

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...

Speed of use:

Builtin accurate meter *without* needing to use a prism with shutter priority, killer feature.
Instant mirror return and motor drive, this means i do not need to look away from the finder between shots.

All this combined allows me to work fast at people photography.

...

The light meter with the PME Hasselblad prism is a plus, the main draw of the prism on a SLR or TLR is to get rid of the left right reversal making easier to follow action.
 

John Will

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I’m liking all the replies but there doesn’t seem to be a clear consensus ☹️

Since when has there been any consensus on any camera or system 😏 For what it is worth I have both a SLX (2nd version) and 6006 (1st version) for over 15 years. Both obtained used for silly money and still fully operational.

They are not heavily used (about 10 rolls per year) and have not required any servicing since I have owned them. I have six battery packs and have all be re-celled with NiMh at least once. Fortunately I have a local company that can supply packs of suitable cells for around $40 (just two solder connections to replace pack). Both cameras share 50mm, 80mm, 150mm and 120mm macro lenses.
 

Pieter12

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I have a number of 6008 bodies and lenses, plus a Hy6. The 6008 and Hy6 are fabulous cameras with excellent lenses. The 6008 batteries can be rebuilt, but the cameras and lenses are close to impossible to repair. There is one technician in the US who can repair them, if parts can be found, plus he is very busy and time in shop can be quite long. The factory seems to be always on the verge of closing down and cannot always be relied on for parts or repairs.
 

Rob Skeoch

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Don't do it, and if you must do it, get the 6008.
I owned a 6006, complete system, lenses, backs, everything for weddings in the day of film.
My greatest photography nightmare story of all time was when shooting a wedding with the 6006, we're at the back of the church, the bride is about to walk the aisle, I said, can I get a nice portrait with your dad before we head up, I take the shot, the mirror flips up and continues flapping like a seagull over a plate of fries, and then the mirror breaks off.... hold on Miss bride, I need to get my backup camera from the car.
Afterwards I had it fixed and sold it off. Couldn't believe in it any more.
Also I never found the lenses as sharp as the blad lenses.

I also own a Rollei tele and have owned the GX and a T in the past. Love those but wouldn't touch the 6000 series. Now it retrospect maybe I should of just bought a 6008 since I had the lenses already but once bitten, twice shy.
 

CJG

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I'll throw my 2 cents in. I was having a miserable time with old cameras and old camera repair guys. A few years back the factory found enough NOS parts to put together a handful of 6008AFs and I bought one. Came new in box with a factory warranty. I don't shoot a lot, 15-20 rolls a year. The camera has been flawless. I did a bunch of research including talking to Key, and decided the 6008 and newer were reliable.

The 80mm Xenotar that came with the kit, also new in box was as lemon. Out of the box sporadically it didn't close down as the mirror flipped up when I fired the shutter. It was repaired under warranty by Key in CO. Maybe because Rollei USA was Jack's customer and not me, but I had the lens back in 2 weeks. Then the aperture blew up. Key needed parts and this took about 6 weeks.

FYI I decided the lens was a lemon and this isn't why I bought a new camera and sold it at a discount with full disclosure. As far as I know it's still working.

I bought a few used lenses which have also been flawless. A 90 APO to replace the 80 which is the sharpest lenses I've ever owned for what that's worth. 60 Curtagon, 50 Distagon and 150 Sonnar. I bought a used back that has been flawless. So all this old used stuff has been reliable.

I have the new battery and it runs forever. I charge it once a year whether it needs it or not

As far as parts and repair, it's true there's one USA repair shop. I had quick, quality service. As far as I know the factory still services these. Requires sending the camera to Germany. So do various other European repair shops. Again based on my conversations with Key I went forward.

I bought a 6001 as a back up camera. The body was $350 @ KEH and looks new. It doesn't have a meter but I meter manually. If you look around you can probably find a 6001 with back, new battery and planar for $1200 or so. A lot less than a Blad

Likes and dislikes?

Schneider lenses are unique and fantastic. The Zeiss lenses, my Distagon and Sonnar anyway are the same as the Blad.

Rollei did a ton of work on film flatness which Zeiss says is the limiting factor in resolution for Hasselblad lenses

Electronic cameras/shutter have their downsides but they have way fewer moving parts and need less service to keep them working than mechanical cameras. This is based on my experience selling my Blad kit when I was a pro and buying RZ67s because I got tired of CLAing my Hasselblads every year. Shot them about the same amount of time and the RZ ran flawlessly without CLAs. BTW some people are of the opinion Hasselblad's will in general have parts issues as we go down the road like the C lenses do now.

Plastic and rubber exterior but well made. Big deal, get over it. Plastic handguns were ridiculed at first. Feels more precise than my RZ's which were work horses.
1/1000 of a second leaf shutter

Focus confirmation. My 67 yr old eyes like this. (on the 6008 AF)

No dark slide to bend or lose

Built in meter with waist level finder

Old lenses are a bargain. The lenses from the SLX era work. The won't work with my meter but I get focus confirmation on the 6008af. Paid a few hundred dollars for the 50 and 150 ea.

Dislikes
Big and Heavy. But it's not an RZ!!! I thoughtnat the time if they made a smaller,lighter,cheapoer manual wind I'd prefer that. But I'm about to start a portrait project and appreciate the motor. So you never know.

Call Key camera and get their opinion
 
OP
OP

beemermark

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I've read enough of these posts that I know how no matter how much I lust after the Rollei (first payed with one when the SLX came out) I need to look elsewhere. Started revied the Bronica SQ-A tonight. Hasselblad is just too expensive. Owned one in the past and it just didn't "wow" me enough to spend the money for more lenses, viewfinders, backs, etc.
 

Steven Lee

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BTW this thread reminds me of my personal wet dream and potentially a stupid purchase: the mighty Hasselblad 203FE. Same form factor as my 501cm, but I get access to f/2.8 lenses, aperture-priority and the 1/2000s shutter. Basically a perfect medium format camera: it has everything I love and none of the nonsense I avoid.

There is always a couple of minty specimen for $5K on eBay on any given day. Expensive, but fairly cheap as a price for the dream. But I am hearing that nobody services their shutters, not even Hasselblad USA, so I would need 2-3 bodies and that's just too much to spend. Even for a dream.
 

Oleg_A

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Don't go into this system because it's only advantage of other similar systems is the black matte interior finish, best in the world, so to say.
1. Clumsy and bulky;
2. Needs some 13.4V and enough current to work Its linear and normal motors correctly;
3. Lenses are very bulky;
4. Nobody has ever seen any repair manual. Does it even exist?
5. Designed by the most stupid engineers in the world, the 120 film back possesses some sort of 1990 Artificial Intelligence. When it "thinks" the film is jammed, it starts rewinding it, instead of doing nothing. This way, you can easily lose half of the roll and make no notice of it, if you don't count the frames taken yourself.
6. Anybody noticed how bulky filmbacks are?
My 6001 has OTF light measurement, partly stolen from Olympus OM system. Of course, this is an advantage, but why do these folks call it "flashmeter"? I don't know, because it actually measures the sum of all light reaching the film.
7. Lenses are expensive and prone to catch dust and spores.
In fact, the system is unreliable, because all your backs can jam and rewind film and a simple manual alternative to this is ... unexistent.
My 6001 has a 15 pin plug at Its side, of which nobody knows nothing. No information. Something can be plugged in, but what? The guys who designed this camera really meant vengeance and revenge for something we didn't do to them ... Or else, they are carefully hiding the electric scheme of the device in order not to be laughed at...
 

Sirius Glass

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Buy a Hasselblad 503 CX which still has lenses, parts and service readily available unlike the Rollei 6000 Series.
 

choiliefan

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I take the shot, the mirror flips up and continues flapping like a seagull over a plate of fries, and then the mirror breaks off....

That's exactly what happened with my 6006 except the mirror remained attached.
I sent it to Marflex to replace one of the boards for a couple hundred bucks then headed off to the Pasadena Camera Show where it was traded to a dealer for a quite nice Nikon F4s. The F5 had just come out and this F4 was priced at $1400. The dealer and I were both happy with the deal.
 

guangong

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Follow Sirius’ advice: buy a Hasselblad, then no need to ever buy another 66 SLR. Ergonomically and mechanically no other 66 comes close.
 

Pieter12

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Don't go into this system because it's only advantage of other similar systems is the black matte interior finish, best in the world, so to say.
1. Clumsy and bulky;
2. Needs some 13.4V and enough current to work Its linear and normal motors correctly;
3. Lenses are very bulky;
4. Nobody has ever seen any repair manual. Does it even exist?
5. Designed by the most stupid engineers in the world, the 120 film back possesses some sort of 1990 Artificial Intelligence. When it "thinks" the film is jammed, it starts rewinding it, instead of doing nothing. This way, you can easily lose half of the roll and make no notice of it, if you don't count the frames taken yourself.
6. Anybody noticed how bulky filmbacks are?
My 6001 has OTF light measurement, partly stolen from Olympus OM system. Of course, this is an advantage, but why do these folks call it "flashmeter"? I don't know, because it actually measures the sum of all light reaching the film.
7. Lenses are expensive and prone to catch dust and spores.
In fact, the system is unreliable, because all your backs can jam and rewind film and a simple manual alternative to this is ... unexistent.
My 6001 has a 15 pin plug at Its side, of which nobody knows nothing. No information. Something can be plugged in, but what? The guys who designed this camera really meant vengeance and revenge for something we didn't do to them ... Or else, they are carefully hiding the electric scheme of the device in order not to be laughed at...
1. Your opinion. I own several and don't find them to be either.
2. So? As of today, reliable more modern battery packs rebuilds are still available.
3. The lenses don't seem to be any bulkier than other MF SLRs.
4. Before the manufacturer went belly-up a couple of times and the parts supply dried up, there were a number of technicians who repaired 6000 series cameras. I would assume they had access to a manual.
5. As I said, I have several 6008 cameras. Never had one jam or rewind--they don't rewind by the way, they just advance to the end of the roll. Maybe the early cameras had that problem. There is a gear in the back that can wear down with a lot of use, but it should last quite a while before causing problems.
6. Th back may seem bulkier than other MF SLRs, but it has a less-convoluted film path plus an ingenious built-in dark slide--nothing to lose or light seals to regularly replace.
6a. I am unaware of any flash meter that does not include ambient light in the measurement. How could a meter isolate just the flash?
7. More expensive than Hasselblad? Once again, I own several lenses, both Zeiss and Schneider and have not noticed any problems with dust or fungus.

The 15-pin plug is for an electric remote release/mirror lock-up and the Master Control that gives you additional functions such as being able to adjust the metering center-weighting, time exposures, flash control and more.

The Rolleiflex/Sinar/Leaf Hy6 is another matter altogether. Lighter, more sophisticated and compact, a joy to use when everything functions. Unfortunately it is close to unserviceable due to lack of parts and technicians and in my case has proved to be quite problematic.
 

ic-racer

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Since getting an SLX in 1986, I almost never use my TLR anymore.
 

Sirius Glass

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1. Your opinion. I own several and don't find them to be either.
2. So? As of today, reliable more modern battery packs rebuilds are still available.
3. The lenses don't seem to be any bulkier than other MF SLRs.
4. Before the manufacturer went belly-up a couple of times and the parts supply dried up, there were a number of technicians who repaired 6000 series cameras. I would assume they had access to a manual.
5. As I said, I have several 6008 cameras. Never had one jam or rewind--they don't rewind by the way, they just advance to the end of the roll. Maybe the early cameras had that problem. There is a gear in the back that can wear down with a lot of use, but it should last quite a while before causing problems.
6. Th back may seem bulkier than other MF SLRs, but it has a less-convoluted film path plus an ingenious built-in dark slide--nothing to lose or light seals to regularly replace.
6a. I am unaware of any flash meter that does not include ambient light in the measurement. How could a meter isolate just the flash?
7. More expensive than Hasselblad? Once again, I own several lenses, both Zeiss and Schneider and have not noticed any problems with dust or fungus.

The 15-pin plug is for an electric remote release/mirror lock-up and the Master Control that gives you additional functions such as being able to adjust the metering center-weighting, time exposures, flash control and more.

The Rolleiflex/Sinar/Leaf Hy6 is another matter altogether. Lighter, more sophisticated and compact, a joy to use when everything functions. Unfortunately it is close to unserviceable due to lack of parts and technicians and in my case has proved to be quite problematic.

Rollei 6000's have more and interesting features, but my comment was about the availability of lenses, parts and service only.
 

CJG

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I actually have been wanting to write up a mini review of my 6008af system I've had for over 3 years but haven't had time. I'll do some quick bullet points.

Likes, and I'm very happy with my purchase:
The cameras has worked flawlessly after an initial problem with a lemon 80mm Xenotar that was fixed under warranty.
I use the 1/1000 of a second setting on my PQS lenses frequently. Have used the more than 1 second settings here and there.
I don't have any autofocus lenses but my 68 yr old eyes love the focus confirmation which is very accurate. I default to it if I'm in doubt.
Love the built in dark slide.
Love the Schneider lenses. They have unique signatures, especially the 90. I have the 90 and the 60, my most used focal lengths.
Battery needs recharging twice a year. Maybe.
Electronic cameras have fewer moving parts and need less regular service. My shutter speeds are accurate and consistent across the board.
Didn't think I wanted much less needed the motor but I'm shooting a portrait project now and glad to have it.
I'm using the interchange film inserts on my portrait project which is almost as fast as changing a back and pretty cheap compared to buying more backs.
Older lenses (I have the Zeiss 50 and 150) can still be used and are a lot less than the 'Blad versions, certainly the the CF lenses.

Dislikes:
It's big. Not RZ67 big, which I've used. But bigger than a c/m. Comparable to an ELM which I've also used.
The 90 is a very big lens. Looks like a 55mm Micro Nikkor on steroids with a small deep set front element. So it's not heavy but big. Worth it IMO for its unique qualities.
Limited service options. Though Key Camera serviced my faulty 80 under warranty and I had it back in a few weeks. Close enough to me I could drive there if I had to.
 

Oleg_A

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To a photographer, clean of this system, I would not recommend to enter. Once you bought a camera, you will have difficulties to sell it. The market is saturated with cameras, nobody actually buys, because it's a lottery. The lenses are expensive, the Schneiders are very expensive. Some people here talk about their particular qualities, but if you search Flickr, you'll find nothing special in form of final result. Actually, you'll find a kind of photos, for which you would ask yourself for a justification of so expensive a gear... For myself, I am struggling to invent a good grip or handle and I will be using the 6001 because of OTF metering and through the film I already bought. I don't expect much of so bulky and unreliable camera, though. Each time I compose, I find mysef struggling with the shaky expensive thing which only becomes responsive, if fed with enough voltage/current. And I don't know at what point of battery discharge, the camera is going to become slow and to fire a shot a second after I press the button. This is "bullshit" engineering, a good sample of it. You will have to carry around a spare battery pack and see it being fully charged. What to do if the back jams the film? Yes, the only reasonable thing is to carry a spare one. Your back will not be happy for sure. Too many issues to worry about.
 
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Pieter12

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To a photographer, clean of this system, I would not recommend to enter. Once you bought a camera, you will have difficulties to sell it. The market is saturated with cameras, nobody actually buys, because it's a lottery. The lenses are expensive, the Schneiders are very expensive. Some people here talk about their particular qualities, but if you search Flickr, you'll find nothing special in form of final result. Actually, you'll find a kind of photos, for which you would ask yourself for a justification of so expensive a gear... For myself, I am struggling to invent a good grip or handle and I will be using the 6001 because of OTF metering and through the film I already bought. I don't expect much of so bulky and unreliable camera, though. Each time I compose, I find mysef struggling with the shaky expensive thing which only becomes responsive, if fed with enough voltage/current. And I don't know at what point of battery discharge, the camera is going to become slow and to fire a shot a second after I press the button. This is "bullshit" engineering, a good sample of it. You will have to carry around a spare battery pack and see it being fully charged. What to do if the back jams the film? Yes, the only reasonable thing is to carry a spare one. Your back will not be happy for sure. Too many issues to worry about.

You have an early model, and it seems a buggy one at that. The 6008i and AF are excellent, reliable cameras with a very nice grip that makes handling quite good. After a while the original NiCad batteries do have a short life, but there is a battery-level icon in the viewfinder so it shouldn't catch you by surprise. The original packs are easily rebuilt with more modern batteries that hold a charge much longer and have a longer useful life. A lot of photos posted on Flickr are crap no matter the lens or camera used, I wouldn't use internet photos to judge a lens or camera. And the 6000 does not meter off the film plane, it meters on the mirror.
 
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