I wonder then if a contaminated batch of Industars gave rise to the myth that they're all radioactive...In practice there may be issues with ores containing several elements, and unwanted elements forming a contamination through a purification process.
I would believe that if people online weren't usually very specific that the lanthanum is what supposedly makes them radioactive. I think in a way Chernobyl is almost more of a cultural icon in the West, in some senses... but in this case I don't think that's the main thing that's involved.More likely people who know Kiev is close to Chernobyl, but don't understand prevailing winds, or that Industar isn't made anywhere near Kiev (Jupiter, yes, but not Industar).
This is what happened to Bruce Banner, he was so happy with his new Spotmatic he turned into the incredible Hulk.
Takumars probably don't even have balsam, but a modern UV-cured cement.
My Super Takumar was surely made in before 1980 (I bought the camera, used, at a pawn shop in 1981). Were they using UV cured lens cements that early? I know I could buy balsam (sold for mounting microscope slides, but still used by amateur opticians for assembling telescope and eyepiece achromats) as late as the 1990s.
centering the four elements in each group would be too difficult without an optical instrument to help.
I have the ends of UV string lights that I built a UV exposure unit out of. And I have a Takumar with the yellowing. I was going to stick it in the sun, but I think I might just use the few UVs I have left. Worth a shot. Let's see how long it takes.
Well, I have pointed my camera with the lens at the fluorescent UV tube for circa 36 hours so far, and no observable change seems to have occurred yet, so I must have a much lower intensity light. I'm gonna try an exposure of about a week or so next. Tell me, there's no risk from too long an exposure to UV as long as there's no heat, right?So just for everyone's information, I put a few uv led lights over the lens on Wednesday. It is now Saturday and the lens is nearly free of any discoloration. Even after one day there was quite a difference. I'll leave it for a few more days for the heck of it.
Tell me, there's no risk from too long an exposure to UV as long as there's no heat, right?
It's on a Praktica Super TL3 with a synthetic leatherette, but I have no idea if that's better or worse as far as breaking down under UV goes. Then again it was 15 dollars and I only bought it because it had a Helios 44 on it, so I guess I'll try it and see.On an SLR, it shouldn't be an issue as long as the mirror isn't locked up. I'd avoid prolonged high intensity UV exposure on a cloth curtain. You could also see some fading of the leatherette body covering due to UV exposure, but likely not in a matter of a few days or even a few weeks under a UV fluorescent. Direct sun typically takes years to be noticeable there.
It's not *that* much of a yellow tintUse it for just B&W film. No yellow filter needed.
Yep that's true. Maybe the OP can test that. My yellowed 55 Tak sure makes some nice pictures. Love to see a clean one to compare to.It's not *that* much of a yellow tint
My yellowed 55 Tak sure makes some nice pictures. Love to see a clean one to compare to.
From what I have seen, the newest 55mm ƒ/1.8 SMC Takumars, the ones with a rubber focus ring, have not yellowed. They may have different glass. My wife's 1971-vintage 55 1.8 did yellow, but I cleared some of it with an inexpensive LED lamp from Ikea. I did not want to put it on a windowsill because of the heat. That 1971 lens has amazing resolution. I do not want to use the term "kit lens" because I associate that with the cheesy plastic-fantastic zoom lenses sold with low-end D cameras at big box stores.Yep that's true. Maybe the OP can test that. My yellowed 55 Tak sure makes some nice pictures. Love to see a clean one to compare to.
From what I have seen, the newest 55mm ƒ/1.8 SMC Takumars, the ones with a rubber focus ring, have not yellowed. They may have different glass. My wife's 1971-vintage 55 1.8 did yellow, but I cleared some of it with an inexpensive LED lamp from Ikea. I did not want to put it on a windowsill because of the heat. That 1971 lens has amazing resolution. I do not want to use the term "kit lens" because I associate that with the cheesy plastic-fantastic zoom lenses sold with mid-range D cameras at big box stores.
This is the route I took with a 55/1.8 and two 50/1.4 Takumars. The Ikea lamp cost around $15 and I placed it just about 1/4” above the lens with foil on the opposite side. The first 50/1.4 was really yellowed and took about two weeks to clear. The other two took about a week each.From what I have seen, the newest 55mm ƒ/1.8 SMC Takumars, the ones with a rubber focus ring, have not yellowed. They may have different glass. My wife's 1971-vintage 55 1.8 did yellow, but I cleared some of it with an inexpensive LED lamp from Ikea. I did not want to put it on a windowsill because of the heat. That 1971 lens has amazing resolution. I do not want to use the term "kit lens" because I associate that with the cheesy plastic-fantastic zoom lenses sold with low-end D cameras at big box stores.
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