Addressing this potential issue might make many of your current problems vanish. Seriously consider getting a camera that gives you control.
And read a good book on exposure determination/control. Learning piecemeal on forum threads can be challenging because of the diversity of recommendation/options available.
- Pro Image 100 --- $10 / roll --- Larger grain (same as K. Gold), but with much better dynamic range.
I will seriously consider that. I'm not eager to spend a lot of money so soon after spending $500 on a brand new camera that I honestly like very much. I love many things about my camera (its size, how it feels in the hand, etc), and I like the controls. But I don't love the fact that I've no idea what the camera is planning to do and that makes it harder to compensate. If the camera just had a little screen that said "this is the exposure I'm planning to use", that'd be perfect.
Sorry, Brian. Gotta disagree on a few particulars.
Overexposing Ektar to boost the shadows is likely to blow out the highlights instead, and risk color shifts or washing out there. Ektar has only about a stop further each direction of latitude than typical slide film. There is a way to selectively improve the shadows by pre-flashing the film instead; but I won't outline it here.
Ektar suffers from cyan contamination of blue, especially at the fringes of exposure latitude. Getting a magenta shift is less common. I once got an interesting blue to magenta gradient shift toward the corners of the field by employing the native fall-off characteristics of a wide angle lens near the summit of Haleakala.
It was deliberate. But on the same Island, the turquoise tropical water came out absolutely stunning due to the cyan imbalance of Ektar; yet the greens and earthtone hues in the foreground were rendered quite
accurately anyway.
Most problems with scanning are due to an insufficient sampling size in relation to 35mm film. Either pay for a higher quality scan or shoot a larger film format.
99% of the problems I see people running into and asking help with when scanning color negative film relate to color balancing, and to a lesser degree contrast management. In virtually all instances, it turns out that neither the recording format, nor the scanning/digitization setup is the problem, and the fix is in how to use them properly.Most problems with scanning are due to an insufficient sampling size in relation to 35mm film.
OK, that wasn't clear as it wasn't specified.specific tests involving a high quality Creo scanner and trained operator
Not necessarily; it depends on how the materials are scanned. In practice, there's plenty of ways this can (and will) be different across film formats, and ways in which this can be done with more than satisfactory results also for 35mm film. Sure, bigger is better. But that doesn't mean that there's an inherent problem with 35mm. There is, for my photography, but it's not so much in color rendition. And it's there whether I scan or optically print my film (with scanning followed by inkjet output yielding marginally better results).The same "economy" level of scanning involving 35mm slides produced far less satisfactory color repro than the same entry-level scans involving larger 120 film. If that's the case with a high quality professional Creo setup, how much more must it apply to amateur scans.
Can you define the term 'sampling size' as you're using it in your posts here?the sampling size issue
99% of the problems I see people running into and asking help with when scanning color negative film relate to color balancing, and to a lesser degree contrast management.
Notice how the tone curve has a sharp spike
Keep in mind that the histogram is really just a pareto. The sharp peak is explained simply by having a fairly large area of flat, bright sky. There's not a whole lot you could do about that except point your camera at something else when making the photo. I wouldn't call it a contrast problem, but an issue of unfortunate compositional choices.
Having followed your journey on the forum I do think you will benefit enormously from a camera with fully manual controls along with a high quality light meter. If for no other reason than you seem to enjoy working out all the details on your own.
But this doesn’t have to cost very much! Certainly an excellent manual camera can be had for less than $100. The light meter might actually be the tricker of the two to find at a decent price, but again this seems like the sort of thing that this forum is well suited to help with.
The spike on the lower part of the hostogram does imply that "data" was chopped-off. At exposure time (film was underexposed), scanning still had a healthy headroom before clipping would become a problem.
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