I can't say I'm overly impressed with the results from your ancient 'Tri-X.
Finger works too.I just photographed my fist with 1 finger for 100 and 2 fingers for 200 and none for 50.
So, @Donald Qualls , when you say "downrate" to compensate, do you mean shot at 100 then dev as though I shot at 400? (6:45 or 7min in X-tol) or shoot at 100 dev at 100 (5:30 in xtol)? I'm assuming the former.
The second purpose is to practice developing, which I've just started this autumn. Short rolls, silly experiments, nothing that matters.
I have what appears to be the exact same bulk loader. It has no felt, which means a short bit of film still inside will be fogged. I have to open it in darkness to attach the film to the 3-5 mm of film sticking out of the old cartridge. Not too pleasant. I'm using a film retriever and can recycle the cartridges from films I have developed. I do have a supply of around 20 loadable metal cartridges, from when Foto Impex still sold them.
The (computerised, haha) counter is nice. But only if you roll 36 exposures, only. You can't reset the cartridge counter (to my knowledge, I didn't get a box and manual) without affecting the bulk counter.
So, one of the reasons the square style is attractive over my Alden is, theoretically, that you lose less of the end of the roll because you don't have to pull as long a leader out of the light trap. Are you saying I'm going to lose that much anyway? Or more? Kind of a bummer.
I got sick of playing with that ancient tri-x and yanked the last 50 feet out. It's test strips now. So now I see the inside of this computerized thing. Looking at the path I can see about the length of the alden trailor might be exposed, so I guess that's what you say is fogging. Taping to the new cassette in total darkness is... well, it kind of ruins the "daylight" part of a daylight film loader.
Seems like a good candidate for a felt light trap, though. You could just put some felt top and bottom just on the inside of the throat and reduce most of that light piping. Maybe I'll experiment one day.
On mine you definitely CAN reset it. Just push the dial for the remaining film length in and it disengages from the frame counter, so you can rotate the frame counter back to zero for the next roll. Release the bulk film dial so it pops up and it will start moving again with the frame counter. Maybe that's the improvement that brought the "new improved model" sticker that's on the box.
Still burning through the FP4 rolls I have on hand from before I got this wild hair. A couple more and I'll start rolling film for reals, though I might use the Alden first. I have HP5 here, too, but I have 7 or 8 rolls of that already. I stocked up on sveral stocks when the higher prices were announced... Geez I have a lot of film in my fridge now. I need to shoot more.
wn. But upon playing around with the way I'm pushing down I managed to uncouple the mechanism. Thanks a lot for the hint!!
I only bulk load the bread and butter films. I.e. FP4 (Silvermax when it was still available in bulk) and HP5. Also EK Vision3 films, but I haven't done anything with those in quite a while. I need to find time for those, again. But I still use lots of other films in single rolls. My spreadsheet tells me I currently have 168 rolls of 35mm film. 37 different types. B/W, E6 , C41 and ECN2. 12 rolls are bulk loaded, half of that Vision3. I replenish as I go, both bulk loaded and single rolls.
I think I'll be rolling as I go, largely because my goal is experimenting with short rolls.
This is one of the main things bulk loading is good for. The others are saving a little each roll even at full length (I bought .EDU Ultra 400 for $51 a bulk roll, fills 17-ish cassettes, which would cost over $100 to buy factory rolled),and using films that aren't readily available in cassettes (cine films, for instance, including duplicating and release positive films like the ORWO DN21 -- ISO 13 -- that I have in one loader for when I want really fine grain and it's sunny).
Back when I was buying 35mm cameras, I would always start the new camera out with an approximately 12 exposure roll. I'd shoot at the top two shutter speeds several times, then I'd do a series of about six identical shots, but with different shutter/aperture pairs.
Developing this would tell me two things--the top speed shots would make sure that the shutter didn't cap by looking for a dark edge. And the six shots with with different shutter speeds, but the same EV would tell me shutter consistancy, at least along the range of speeds I tried by looking to see if each frame was similarly exposed.
Speaking of loading, I’m not sure why this didn’t occur to me before. Why not reload with commercial metal canisters that you leave a small leader to pull new film into it. I tried this yesterday and it worked perfectly. Beside the DX code, anything else to be aware of?
Speaking of loading, I’m not sure why this didn’t occur to me before. Why not reload with commercial metal canisters that you leave a small leader to pull new film into it. I tried this yesterday and it worked perfectly. I have some mystery film canisters I’m thinking of pulling the film out without breaking the seals on the end, then reload with whatever I decide. Anyone else do this? Beside the DX code, anything else to be aware of?
The center shaft is there and the cover is secure, the only thing missing is the piece that is fitted to the center of the bulk roll of film, then slips over the shaft to keep the film from wandering around the chamber.
View attachment 292681
The bulk film roll is wrapped on a plastic center core which fits down over the post,
If you buy rerolled movie film, however (5222 and DN21, in my experience so far), it's likely it won't have the core. The loader will still work, but the threaded stud will scratch hell out of the last few frames on the bulk roll...
Fortunately, due to the direction of loading, these last few inches that get scrached up actually become the leader of the last roll you load, so it has never been a problem for me.
Photo Warehouse ships their 5222 without a core or a spool.
Yep. I have a spare core, but couldn't get it into the roll as received and really didn't want to unroll a hundred feet of film in the dark, even just from the roll as received to the core. Too many visions of film all over the darkroom floor racing through my head...
I'm hoping to convince my slicer software and 3D printer to allow me to print a loader that takes a 400 foot spool so I can order 5222 and Ektachrome direct from Kodak.
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