Striped JIS screw

[Whomever]

HI all, I have striped JIS #0 screws head, as soon as I started to turn I felt the head begin to round. (I used JIS screwdriver)
he screw is to small for the rubber band/glove trick.
The scre is a base scree for a Nikon body and is flush with the base so there is nothing to grab.
Do they make an easy out for screws this small?
are there any other splotches than a throw away jewlers screwdriver snd super glue?
Thank you in advance

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Before any more unscrewing attempts I would apply a drop of penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench ...) and allow it to sink in for a day, giving occasional taps to the screw head and baseplate.

Then I'd try the super-glue trick - it fits with the old admonition "First, do no harm." (Be sure to clean the head well with acetone.) Not sure it will work - the screw must have been in tight enough that it wouldn't come out very easily.

After that I would grind a flat blade jewelers screw driver to a knife edge and push it into the screw head, hoping the corners of the blade dig into the head enough to allow a grip. It has to be a very high quality driver with a hard-to-file blade so it will be hard and sharp enough to cut into the head. The driver can be ground back to it's original shape after the task is completed or has failed miserably.

As a last resort I would carefully drill out the head by hand with a drill bit mounted in a pin vise and hope there is enough screw left sticking out to grip it and remove it. I would leave a little bit of the head still on the screw and gently pry/pop the baseplate free off the remaining screw.

 

[Whomever]

I'll post a picture, my phone eouldnt focus

 

[eli griggs]

Google "Japanese Metric JIS Screws" and try this link; https://www.hillcofasteners.com/cat/Screws/Pan-Head-Phillips-Machine-Screws-Bright-Zinc-Plate.aspx"

There are other choices to be had and if you find an assortment of Hitichi small JIS Pan heads, etc, please post a link to these.

Good Luck,
Eli

 

[Whomever]

That was just a series of links for screw, tour tick music had been missing

 

[Whomever]

Google "Japanese Metric JIS Screws" and try this link; https://www.hillcofasteners.com/cat/Screws/Pan-Head-Phillips-Machine-Screws-Bright-Zinc-Plate.aspx"
you can buy JziS scres but not as sn assortment , qtys of 25

There are other choices to be had and if you find an assortment of Hitichi small JIS Pan heads, etc, please post a link to these.

Good Luck,
Eli

 

[eli griggs]

I like this set of solutions, but just to make sure the OP knows this, I'll add that any liquid, such as Liquid Wrench, applied to this screw and housing, should only be delivered as a tiny drop, like from a thin sewing needle or Diabetic's syringe needle tip, by dipping only.

Be sure to use a Super Glue that can handle strong torquing up to 250/275 psi. Most of these common glues have an issue with "Shear" pressure and will break hold easily.

Loctite 271 is a permanent binding glue in a 6 mil tube, affordable and able to withstand relative high torquing pressure up to 250/275 PSI, of upwards of 1 inch bolts.

No solvent is mentioned in lititure, only that it has to be removed by heating to 500 degrees F, so you will have to pop this into a small toaster oven, with strong ventilation in the work area.

I do no know if the Nikon screw will need re tempering, so you should be ready to do this, it the threads are too soft, which will no take long as the smallness of the screw and joined rod.

I would no use a good tool like a JIS screwdriver to do this work, but a small drywall screw, which will likely touch bottom, and can be screwed out with a large driver.

Whatever you decide, good luck.

Eli

Before any more unscrewing attempts I would apply a drop of penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench ...) and allow it to sink in for a day, giving occasional taps to the screw head and baseplate.

Then I'd try the super-glue trick - it fits with the old admonition "First, do no harm." (Be sure to clean the head well with acetone.) Not sure it will work - the screw must have been in tight enough that it wouldn't come out very easily.

After that I would grind a flat blade jewelers screw driver to a knife edge and push it into the screw head, hoping the corners of the blade dig into the head enough to allow a grip. It has to be a very high quality driver with a hard-to-file blade so it will be hard and sharp enough to cut into the head. The driver can be ground back to it's original shape after the task is completed or has failed miserably.

As a last resort I would carefully drill out the head by hand with a drill bit mounted in a pin vise and hope there is enough screw left sticking out to grip it and remove it. I would leave a little bit of the head still on the screw and gently pry/pop the baseplate free off the remaining screw.

 

[4season]

If the factory used any sort of thread-locking compound, it can usually be softened with acetone (use with caution around plastic or painted surfaces).

There's also a certain amount of skill involved: You may be using the correct driver, but were you bearing down on it with sufficient force? Too little force, and the bit will slip and simply ream out the head of the screw.

 

[Kino]

You can also try applying a soldering iron head to the screw and heat it up in hopes that any locktite or varnish will release. If nothing else the expansion/contraction of heat applied might make it back out with a screwdriver modified as mentioned above...

 

[Whomever]

I like this set of solutions, but just to make sure the OP knows this, I'll add that any liquid, such as Liquid Wrench, applied to this screw and housing, should only be delivered as a tiny drop, like from a thin sewing needle or Diabetic's syringe needle tip, by dipping only.

Be sure to use a Super Glue that can handle strong torquing up to 250/275 psi. Most of these common glues have an issue with "Shear" pressure and will break hold easily.

Loctite 271 is a permanent binding glue in a 6 mil tube, affordable and able to withstand relative high torquing pressure up to 250/275 PSI, of upwards of 1 inch bolts.

No solvent is mentioned in lititure, only that it has to be removed by heating to 500 degrees F, so you will have to pop this into a small toaster oven, with strong ventilation in the work area.

I do no know if the Nikon screw will need re tempering, so you should be ready to do this, it the threads are too soft, which will no take long as the smallness of the screw and joined rod.

I would no use a good tool like a JIS screwdriver to do this work, but a small drywall screw, which will likely touch bottom, and can be screwed out with a large driver.

Whatever you decide, good luck.

Eli

I USED WD-50 with the straw then wiped the surrounding area. Is thT good enough?
FYI this is s Nikon FE

 

[Whomever]

Is there a place where to jget jeers Phillips screwdriver? Just trying to avoid unassisted screw drivers if possible, but still looks cheaper to buy the $6 set

 

[bernard_L]

I USED WD-50 with the straw then wiped the surrounding area. Is thT good enough?

You need to thoroughly clean the screw head with naphta, then isopropyl alcoool, or the glue trick will fail. Instead of Super Glue (cyanoacrylate) I would use epoxy of good quality; once you got the screw out, you can dissolve the epoxy in Acetone or soften it by heating above 200°C.

 

[Whomever]

You need to thoroughly clean the screw head with naphta, then isopropyl alcoool, or the glue trick will fail. Instead of Super Glue (cyanoacrylate) I would use epoxy of good quality; once you got the screw out, you can dissolve the epoxy in Acetone or soften it by heating above 200°C.

Soo what was the WD40 libricating?lubricating? Should I still let the WD40 sit for day before cleaning with IPA?

 

[eli griggs]

It may be that a light shellac would be used, in which case alcohol is called for, but the Loctite 271 I mentioned does no have any solvent listed, claiming only a 500°F heating will release a properly set joined mechanism.

If the factory used any sort of thread-locking compound, it can usually be softened with acetone (use with caution around plastic or painted surfaces).

There's also a certain amount of skill involved: You may be using the correct driver, but were you bearing down on it with sufficient force? Too little force, and the bit will slip and simply ream out the head of the screw.

 

[Whomever]

Any idea how to hold the creedriver in the upright position for 10 minutes, the hotshot doent make it easy. Of course I could just hold it but if it isn't to much trouble than why not.

 

[Whomever]

Screw link https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-machine-screws/thread-size~m1-7/head-type~flat/

 

[BMbikerider]

Can you remove the remaining screw so you would be able to remove the plate. You may then see the sheared screw sticking up and with a miniature engineers pliers gently turn the screw to remove it. On a bigger scale I have removed many motorcycle cylinder heads when the bolts have rusted in and sheared off, so scaled down it should be possible.

 

[Whomever]

Can you remove the remaining screw so you would be able to remove the plate. You may then see the sheared screw sticking up and with a miniature engineers pliers gently turn the screw to remove it. On a bigger scale I have removed many motorcycle cylinder heads when the bolts have rusted in and sheared off, so scaled down it should be possible.

 

[Whomever]

It isn't sheares the head is rouned so the '+' looks like 'o'

 

[eli griggs]

Any idea how to hold the creedriver in the upright position for 10 minutes, the hotshot doent make it easy. Of course I could just hold it but if it isn't to much trouble than why not.

 

[eli griggs]

Use modeling clay, which is fine, often coloured natural clay & oil, and sold at Michael's and other art and craft stores in one pound blocks, by making a heavy, tall "doughnut", at least one quarter pound, and then tape up the bottom, back and side of body next to the target, so you can position the clay, and press it into the body with a tape barrier you just made.

Leave the opening open, and no touching the screw/rod assembly until glued, using one finger on of the glued top screw or rod, to hold position, as you squeeze the top half of the doughnut closed, with slight downward pressure.

You'll know when to let go of the assembly top, and just leave it for a few hours.

Just to be sure enough air flow is able to pass in/out of the doughnut, lightly oil a thick drinking straw and include it near the bottom of the clay form, where you can easily position it and pull it out once you start putting the glue and clay into place.

Loctite 271 is an anaerobic glue, so give it lots of time to set-up.

IMO.
PS: If you'll be taking the screw around to different sellers or shops, leave the assembly glued, and carry it in a meds bottle or zipped sandwich bag, for easier show and tell.

 

[shutterfinger]

Post 6 got it right, threadlocker.
PDF page 37/38 of the factory service msanual shows the screw to be a 1.7mm x 2.5mm screw. https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/nikon-fe-fe2-service.pdf
A #51 drill bit is .067 inch/1.7018 mm. The tap drill is a #53 for soft meterials, #54 for hard materials.
http://www.smithbearing.com/images/pdf/ENG-FractionalChart.pdf

1.7mm is a non standard screw size. https://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/metric-screw-sizes.pdf

 

[bernard_L]

You need to thoroughly clean the screw head with naphta, then isopropyl alcoool, or the glue trick will fail. Instead of Super Glue (cyanoacrylate) I would use epoxy of good quality; once you got the screw out, you can dissolve the epoxy in Acetone or soften it by heating above 200°C.

Soo what was the WD40 libricating?lubricating? Should I still let the WD40 sit for day before cleaning with IPA?

The idea of the WD-40 is (hopefully) to seep in between the screw ant the taped hole to ease the removal. The screw head is the last place you want to lubricate; there you need traction.

 

[mshchem]

Micro torch, my wife is a jewelry artist, she got a little propane/ oxygen torch that will zero in on a pin head. Maybe transfer heat by warming screw driver. There's some sort of thread locking compound used. I always see a gummy thread locker.

 

[BMbikerider]

I doubt very much if it is a thread lock compound. They will not use it on parts that are unlikely to come loose, that will be the reserve of moving parts inside the camera body. (which I also doubt). More than likely it will be caused by some interaction between the screw and the part it is screwed into causing the screw to rust and expand in the threaded hole.. I have seen a 10mm bolt snap when the owner tried to remove it from an alloy engine block where the bolt had corroded and jammed it in solid. The only way of delaying this is to use a very light smear of something like a copper based grease when it is assembled. The two components are almost certainly mild steel for the screw and an alloy for the camera body which together are prime territory for electrolytic corrosion.

Using heat that may damage internals of what is in reality a delicate instrument, Super glue and two pack resin glue will simply not work, they are fine for wide surface areas, but not the tip of a rusted in screw.

Now I know a little more about what it may be, the only safe way is to have the camera securely fastened to a jig and drill the screw out of the body. Clean up the thread, you can get specialised screw thread taps to do this, then use a new screw. Don't forget the thread will be metric fine.