Striped JIS screw

[Whomever]

Anyone hear of a product, "ScrewGrab" its a diamond impregnated paste you shirt in the eatin head to fill the gaps.

 

[eli griggs]

If you do use a power drill to remove the screw, keep in mind, the "runout" of both machine and drill, mounted, as their orbit may be beyond what you need.

A cobalt drill, no carbide, in a micro vice, inserted in a good brace or double geared 'egg beater' hand drill might be the best way to go, just reverse direction if it is grabbed by the screw, rather than 'powering through' and reposition for another try.

Harbor Freight carries double sets of resharpened micro drills and endmills, I have some here and may just try them in manual hand drills to see how good the can be for this job.

Glued or drilled out, go slow and know, you can do it.

Good Luck.

 

[Whomever]

If you do use a power drill to remove the screw, keep in mind, the "runout" of both machine and drill, mounted, as their orbit may be beyond what you need.
thank you, and I really do not want to use a drill ecsuse how easy the head started to strip.
As a data point the rubber glove or band trick won't work with JIS screws because the drivers are printed and cut right through the lsmatex/rubber

A cobalt drill, no carbide, in a micro vice, inserted in a good brace or double geared 'egg beater' hand drill might be the best way to go, just reverse direction if it is grabbed by the screw, rather than 'powering through' and reposition for another try.

Harbor Freight carries double sets of resharpened micro drills and endmills, I have some here and may just try them in manual hand drills to see how good the can be for this job.

Glued or drilled out, go slow and know, you can do it.

Good Luck.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Have you got it out yet?

Your screw may be too small for this, but if you have a rotary grinder (like a Dremel or Foredom tool), make a slot in the screwhead with a cut-off disk (wear eye protection!). A regular screw driver blade might then work. According to <this link> the disks are 0.6mm thick, so if the screw head is much less than 3mm across, the slot may be too wide(?) Also, there is a good chance of grinding into the area next to the screw, so if cosmetic damage must be avoided, this may not be the best method.

Obviously, if it is really tight, penetrating oil and or heat may also be needed.

 

[Whomever]

ZI Ztjought zi gotvit out, then looked, then realized it was the one across from the one zi wanted to get out. And to make it more disappointing zI lost the screw

And yes it is to small for a Dreamland it is 1.7mm x2.3mm

 

[BMbikerider]

Have you got it out yet?

Your screw may be too small for this, but if you have a rotary grinder (like a Dremel or Foredom tool), make a slot in the screwhead with a cut-off disk (wear eye protection!). A regular screw driver blade might then work. According to <this link> the disks are 0.6mm thick, so if the screw head is much less than 3mm across, the slot may be too wide(?) Also, there is a good chance of grinding into the area next to the screw, so if cosmetic damage must be avoided, this may not be the best method.

Obviously, if it is really tight, penetrating oil and or heat may also be needed.

I doubt if a dremmel can be used as the screw is flush with the surface it is holding in place, Doing what you suggest will cut into the baseplate as well.

 

[eli griggs]

A typical Dremel shaft runs about 1/8" so for figure that these "thicker" shafts are over a third of the width of that screw too large, out of the box.

You might be able to plunge cut on either side the cross point with the tiny endmills/drills I suggested, forming a slot for a screwdriver, but it seems to me, that you'll have better luck with the Loctite 271.

Cheers.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I doubt if a dremmel can be used as the screw is flush with the surface it is holding in place, Doing what you suggest will cut into the baseplate as well.

A typical Dremel shaft runs about 1/8" so for figure that these "thicker" shafts are over a third of the width of that screw too large, out of the box.

[...].

Perhaps a photo will help.

The thickness of the Dremel <cut-off wheel> is 0.6mm so, with a steady hand, the width of the slot should be about the same. That is 0.0236 inch - much less than 1/8 in (0.125 in.)

Yes, I mentioned damage to the baseplate is likely, but with perfect technique, damage should be limited to cosmetic marks. Depends on how bad you want to get the baseplate off, I guess. Reducing the diameter of the cut-off wheel, will shorten the length of the slot, reducing damage to the baseplate. The abrasive wheels get smaller with use, so cutting into something like a grindstone will reduce the diameter of the wheel. Wear eye protection!

I don't have a Nikon, so it is hard for me to visualize the size of the screw in question. My photo shows a Fuji. If the Nikon screw is much smaller than this one, then some other technique should probably be used.

My alternative suggestion would be to drill off the screw head - just barely - and then remove the baseplate. It may be possible to make a slot in the protruding end of the screw shaft. Or it may be possible to grasp the protruding end of the shaft with high quality precision pliers. Any collateral damage will be hidden when the baseplate is re-attached. Once the screw head and baseplate are removed, the screw will no longer be under tension, so it should take less effort to unscrew it. Howerver, if varnish/threadlocker was applied during assembly, then warming up the screw shaft with a fine point soldering iron might help.

 

[machine]

I had the exact same issue last week - trying to open the base plate of a Nikon had stripped a screw (I was using a Phillips screwdriver).
I was able to take this off with a screw extractor fitted to an electric screwdriver very easily (#10 drill and extractor).
In fact - the screw came off with the drill itself - didn't need to switch to the extractor. It's a left-handed thread I believe.
Since then I have also gotten a JIS screwdriver (Vessel) and ordered a pack of 1.4M2 (1.4mm x 2mm) screws off eBay - I measured the screw thread and length with calipers (though not a screw gauge), so I think my measurement is correct and this is not a 1.7M screw.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I had the exact same issue last week - trying to open the base plate of a Nikon FE2 had stripped a screw (I was using a Phillips screwdriver).
I was able to take this off with a screw extractor fitted to an electric screwdriver very easily (#10 drill and extractor).
In fact - the screw came off with the drill itself - didn't need to switch to the extractor. It's a left-handed thread I believe.
Since then I have also gotten a JIS screwdriver (Vessel) and ordered a pack of 1.4M2 (1.4mm x 2mm) screws off eBay - I measured the screw thread and length with calipers (though not a screw gauge), so I think my measurement is correct and this is not a 1.7M screw.

There are several different types of devices known as "screw extractors". In this case, it is probably a moot point because you say you did not actually use the screw extractor, right? But if someone has success with a screw extractor, it would be good to know more about what it looks like.

When you say "it" is left-handed thread - do you mean the screw extractor (which you did not use) - or the #10 drill? If you used a left-handed drill bit, where did you get it? I am putting put this method (left-hand twist drill) at the top of my list of things to try in this situation. Thanks for suggesting it.

 

[machine]

Here's the exact product I used (no affiliation): https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-We...erkzeug+screw+extractor&qid=1619371934&sr=8-1

I used the part labeled "Dr #10" and drilled into the screw head with the direction of the screwdriver set to "reverse" - i.e. the direction as per instructions. The screw came right off - and I did not need to use the extractor bit.

Since then I have learned how the JIS standard is different from the Phillips. Using a JIS screwdriver would have avoided the whole issue.

Lastly - I have learned to leave well enough alone - I was just trying to open up the camera to see if all was nice and clean inside (it was)... should have left well enough alone

 

[machine]

I got the 1.4M2 screws in the mail today and they are too small. I am guessing 1.7M2 is the right size (as someone who had read the manual said above).

Lesson learnt.

 

[Whomever]

I got the 1.4M2 screws in the mail today and they are too small. I am guessing 1.7M2 is the right size (as someone who had read the manual said above).
Yes z1.7 is the correct ones.. I believe the link contains both though, so double and triple check before placing your order
Lesson learnt.

 

[Whomever]

I have use asitate on the scre head , dried, follows by loctite and screw driver, I hold the screw driver for 10+ minutes and the loctite 271 will not form a solid. I scrape bits off the screw head 30 minutes later. For a data point loctite 371 has a 250-275 foot pond rating per the back of the packaging.
I am unable to unscrew the screw by turning the base counter clockwise because hoe the sides is the base are crimped upward
Should U try something else Ie Gorilla Glue?

 

[Whomever]

Here's the exact product I used (no affiliation): https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-We...erkzeug+screw+extractor&qid=1619371934&sr=8-1

I used the part labeled "Dr #10" and drilled into the screw head with the direction of the screwdriver set to "reverse" - i.e. the direction as per instructions. The screw came right off - and I did not need to use the extractor bit.

Since then I have learned how the JIS standard is different from the Phillips. Using a JIS screwdriver would have avoided the whole issue.

Lastly - I have learned to leave well enough alone - I was just trying to open up the camera to see if all was nice and clean inside (it was)... should have left well enough alone

Did you use an electric drill or pin vise?
Also you wrote dr-10 but the set you posted only goes up to dr-5. Typo, wrong set?

 

[Whomever]

Ok, got it out, I used, dr-8, dr-9,dr-10 because I still had a bit of loctite 272 in the head,. I Wass able to do it all by hand. I did have to give the base a 1/4 turn because the screw didn't want to come out of the unthreaded whole. After that I was able to pop the screw outbof the base plate.
Zi did notice some discoloration on the unger side of the plate as if they missed a coat of paint in that small area, would this sound like something zi should worry about?
Almost forgot here is a link (unafilliated) to the kit zi used
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08Z319...abc_7QE8ZBKRW3YNVE9T9HBC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Whomever]

Are the holes only tapped to a specific depth? I could only find 3.0mm screws and the service manual lists them as 2.5 mm screws.

 

[bdial]

It's probably tapped the full length of the hole, whatever that is. If it's a through hole, the longer screw will probably be fine, if it's a blind hole the screw could bottom out before it snugs whatever it's holding. You could try sticking a piece of wire into the hole to measure the depth. 1/2 mm isn't very much, so you may be lucky.
Otherwise, you can probably shorten the screw enough by grinding it down a bit with some fine sandpaper.

 

[Whomever]

It's probably tapped the full length of the hole, whatever that is. If it's a through hole, the longer screw will probably be fine, if it's a blind hole the screw could bottom out before it snugs whatever it's holding. You could try sticking a piece of wire into the hole to measure the depth. 1/2 mm isn't very much, so you may be lucky.
Otherwise, you can probably shorten the screw enough by grinding it down a bit with some fine sandpaper.

That was my thought too, just was curious if anyone knew.