I am aware that Ron Mowery, PE, advised using stop bath for the C-41 development process. Thank you for posting that for others to see and learn.
Check out the instructions on using TF 4 fixers as the RECOMENDATIONS state "do NOT use stop bath" so I really don't think we should use the recommendations of someone else on the internet as fact. I do believe the instructions by the engineers of the chemicals are the best to use.
Because a water bath is actually a "slow down in-deterministically" bath while a stop bath is a "stop" bath. The folks at Kodak recognized two things: 1) some people like a predictable process and 2) some people who may not be orthogonal to the process people, liked to save a few pennies on their fix. Also, I am annoyed whenever I find that I've killed my fix before its time and I have to mix a new batch at 85 degrees and wait for the solution to cool down to 68 before I can process film.If as you posted using water is so effective, why was so much money used in research and development for stop bath, as though there is no purpose for stop bath. There is a logical disjunction.
with white vinegar, you need to keep track of usage or have a pH meter to be sure it's still acidic
Check out the instructions on using TF 4 fixers as the RECOMENDATIONS state "do NOT use stop bath" so I really don't think we should use the recommendations of someone else on the internet as fact. I do believe the instructions by the engineers of the chemicals are the best to use.
Let's be honest, who routinely tests their fixer solution anyway? I certainly don't. I have tested prints for residual fixer in the past, and as a result my routine now errs on the side of extravagance rather than risk stains on my prints.
I think your statement, as is, can be misleading. Without having looked up PE's comments on this l would guess that he is specifically advising for the case of a hand tank.
I personally see the use of stop bath in a C-41 process as something of a kludge, mainly to allow use in a less than ideal situation.
No, you are wrong.
No, you are wrong. Go read Ron's posts and you will see that they are backed up by scientific research at Kodak. It also prevents color crossover.
With respect, I recall that PE's recommendations for stop bath inclusion in the C-41 process were specifically designed for the low volume user who used individual tanks.
It is an adaptation to the standard process that helps improve results from C-41 when that process is used in a non-standard way - e.g. with a JOBO system or in steel Nikkor tanks or Paterson tanks.
Ron used it in his research work, because it was impractical to do testing work with short lengths of film running through commercial processors.
Mr. Bill is correct in that the higher volume commercial runs - for which C-41 was designed - don't benefit from stop bath.
I started this thread 17 years ago because there were several stop/water discussions going in APUG at the time. It seemed that people were passionate about one side or the other at the time. They still are. Also, I was relatively new in darkroom work and not entirely sure what was right either. I am a stop bath user because that's how I was taught by none other than Ansel himself. Yeah, I am old enough to have attended one of his summer workshops in Yosemite and eventually, a day in his darkroom in Carmel. He was a process man. Stop bath was one of the common elements in just about all of his recipes.What I don't understand is why forum members get so worked-up about whether anyone else uses a stop bath or just water. If someone started a thread saying "I can't achieve consistent film development", or "My prints show yellow stains on drying", it would be reasonable and helpful to mention stop baths. But here it just seems a brown bread/white bread argument.
I started this thread 17 years ago because there were several stop/water discussions going in APUG at the time. It seemed that people were passionate about one side or the other at the time. They still are. Also, I was relatively new in darkroom work and not entirely sure what was right either. I am a stop bath user because that's how I was taught by none other than Ansel himself. Yeah, I am old enough to have attended one of his summer workshops in Yosemite and eventually, a day in his darkroom in Carmel. He was a process man. Stop bath was one of the common elements in just about all of his recipes.
Damn it Steve, if you had gone to the classes in the summer that I went, we might have bumped into each other 40 years ago.Just after I finished grad school I had bought several lenses for my Minolta SRT 101 and was shooting slides. My coworkers has arranged two weeks of classes with Ansel Adams in Yosemite. I was so smart that I know that the Zone System worked for large format but not practical for roll film. Besides when one takes slides who needs the Zone System, so I took a pass on the classes. Years later I started kicking myself in the ass. I will let you know when I stop.
Saying that water is the same as stop is like saying cold water stops an intruder as well as mace. They both work but one STOPS stuff from happening. Intruders hate cold water.
I like stop. but, do or don't. It's your art.
Welcome toAPUGPhotrio!!
We all know that stop bath with indicator is just so damned expensive!
People be like "stop bath is fine but it's so expensive!
Active developer soaked into paper that comes into contact with fixer causes stains. You can test that very easily. It even causes stains with rc paper - but it's less noticeable. Stop "stops" that.
@Sirius Glass was being sarcastic.
Active developer soaked into paper that comes into contact with fixer causes stains. You can test that very easily. It even causes stains with rc paper - but it's less noticeable. Stop "stops" that.
@Sirius Glass was being sarcastic.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?