By bring up TF4 and TF5 you are adding confusion to someone just starting in darkroom work and causing damage to the OP and other beginners.
Water can be used as a stop in printing if the paper will go back into the developer for advanced development of areas of the photograph, but once the development has ended stop bath should be used. Again this information would only confuse the OP and should not be brought up in a thread such as this.
Apparently the horse isn’t dead enough yet!We went over this to lengths, horse died several times in that thread. But you might want to look it up as there was some good input, not just how to dispose a dead horse
Apparently the horse isn’t dead enough yet!
of course! hence the LOLYou two missed the smiley face. I'm sure that jawarden was joking.
The difference here is that the original poster actually tested the dead horse before disposing of it. I don't recall anyone reporting an actual A/B comparison in any of the other discussions of this topic.We went over this to lengths, horse died several times in that thread. But you might want to look it up as there was some good input, not just how to dispose a dead horse
For clarification, this merging of the threads changes the meaning of the post I made an hour or so ago where I referred to the original poster. When I referred to "original poster" I mean the post made by lonelyboy earlier today.Merged to the grand "Do we need a stop bath?" megathread.
Merged to the grand "Do we need a stop bath?" megathread.
Merged to the grand "Do we need a stop bath?" megathread.
Indeed!You two missed the smiley face. I'm sure that jawarden was joking.
I bought a 5 gallon cubitainer makes 100L of working solution, I'm sure I will end up using it for everything. 50 cents a liter.
All these discussions always end up with the miraculous TF whatever fixer.
then an acidic stop bath will help preserve your fixer by ensuring that the throughput does not carry over alkali to reduce the acidity of the fixer.
Yes... this is a best buy !!!
This is not about miracles... but alkaline fixers are more efficient for modern emulsions.
Another interesting thing, alkaline fixers perform well better than acidic ones in removing the pink stain of Kodak TMax films, absolutely you would prefer an alkaline fixer if often shooting TMax. In this context, (alkaline fixer) better using a water stop, fixers are well buffered to hold pH but as fixer gets used you may have to measure and correct pH of the fixer if throwing acid to the alkaline fixer, still one may rinse with water after acidic stop and before alkaline fixing.
Hypo or a Plain Water long time bath also removes the pink stain, or but no doubt that using using alkaline fixer saves a time and effort remarkably.
IMO it is missleading saying that Acidic stop is the one protecting the fixer. A Water Stop also protects perfectly the fixer, and it "protects better" the fixer than Acidic Stop because Acidic Stop damages the fixer if you use an alkaline of neutral fixer, while Water Stop protects fixers always, not mattering what fixer kind you use.
If speaking about fixer protection, then Water Stop wins... or at least with Acidic Stop you may have to make a water rinse before a neutral/alkaline fixer, to not damage it.
A Water Stop is the perfection for film processing, you rinse/dump some 3 times times and the film gets perfectly clean, you bring nothing to the fixer but some water drops, Water Stop is one shot, always fresh, with no dirty chem accumulation. Again, nothing wrong with Acidic Stop if you rinse with water before a potential alkaline fixer usage...
You are muddying the question if you start mentioning alkaline fixer.
I am talking about high throughput in alkaline developer and acidic fixer. If you use a water stop for one day and an acidic stop the next day and measure the pH of the fixer at the end of each day, you will find that on the day you used an acidic stop, the pH of your fixer will be nearer to the original fix.
Well, it kind of depends on buffering. For example, PE stated many, many times that both TF-4 and TF-5 could be used perfectly well with an acid stop bath.
Of course there is nothing wrong with doing water rinse after an acid stop bath.
And a water stop bath is not bad either, unless it isn’t thorough enough when using an alkaline fixer, in which case development could potentially re-start in the fix.
I am talking about high throughput in alkaline developer and acidic fixer. If you use a water stop for one day and an acidic stop the next day and measure the pH of the fixer at the end of each day, you will find that on the day you used an acidic stop, the pH of your fixer will be nearer to the original fix.
You are muddying the question if you start mentioning alkaline fixer.
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