BMbikerider
Member
YES, most definitely. Stop bath is cheap fixer isn't, so anything to conserve the fixer will come as a benefit.
Well, yes. Most B&W developers use a carbonate, either sodium or potassium. But the whole story about pinholes due to bubbles is really limited to very soft emulsions (no modern films have these) in a deep-tank processing (which is used by only a small minority of home users). Photo Engineer has discussed this on Photrio back when he was still alive.Some developers contain sodium carbonate or sodium hydrogen carbonate as pH buffer
We went over this to lengths, horse died several times in that thread. But you might want to look it up as there was some good input, not just how to dispose a dead horse![]()
It turns out that poor horse appears impossible to kill. More of the same for the sake of sameness.yes, we have beaten this poor horse to death, buried it, exhumed it and beaten it again many times.
Not sure why this is a religious issue.
do one or the other or both (but if both, do water first and acid stop second). It does not matter. Never has....except that stop bath conserves fixer.
I have always used Kodak indicator stop bath according tote manufacturer’s directions.
please use the search function;this subject has been discussed ad nausea.Do you use a stop bath in B/W processing? I did a test using stop bath vs tap water wash. Here is the comparison result:
Stop Bath? or Not? – H. M. Lai's Film Blog
I've recently found that the Search button is covered in a thin layer of dust...It turns out that poor horse appears impossible to kill. More of the same for the sake of sameness.
But it is often easier to start a new thread and look up info one seeks. It's the problem with search function, but nothing surprising, most of them don't work as expected.
Too much controversy in one post, I need to sit down!I have never used a stop in all my years processing B&W films both personally and professionally.
BUT then I never use a pre wash.
BUT I do use a squeegee.
So maybe I am not the one you should ask.![]()
Too much controversy in one post, I need to sit down!
![]()
Too much controversy in one post, I need to sit down!
![]()
I have always used stop bath for film and paper. It stops the development completely and extends the life of the fixer. I worked at Kodak and saw many studies with testing on stop bath and read them. The short version is use stop bath and it is not expensive. Take the time to search Photrio and read what was written by Photo Engineer, a life time Kodak employee who invented may types of film and photo chemicals.
C41 doesn't use a wash after developer, it goes straight to bleach, which is acidic and stops development instantly. Some home users use a stop bath, especially if blix is used. There have been several cases where water was used after C41 developer and streaking is a usual result. E6 on the other hand uses a water wash after FD, but keep in mind that FD time is reasonably long, not 3:15...
Too much controversy in one post, I need to sit down!
![]()
If you sit down read the manufacturers data-sheets. They recommend a Stop Bath or a Waterrinse for Black and white films. That's not controversial at all.
This is what Kodak say for Tmax: Rinse at 65 to 75°F(18 to 24°C) with agitation in KODAK Indicator Stop Bath or running water for 30 seconds.
What was controversial was the mumbo jumbo being spawned in a long post. You make a decision which you use it won't make any difference to the final results.
Ian
LOL what is the controversy? using the stop bath or the search function??
As far as search goes, all of the web sites I frequent, from basic to high end, the search function on ALL of them are horrible. I laugh every time somebody recommends the search function. Just help a brother out and answer the question instead of "use the search" sheeesh.
Now as far as stop bath, I've used the Kodak indicator stop bath and I have used plain water. I have not seen a difference in using or not using. I can see the logic of stopping the developer and not over working the fixer. And that makes sense. But visually, I have not noticed a difference on the final result of the negative.
Sirius, let me ask, throwing acetic to alkaline TF-4 preserves it ?
Throwing some pure water drops from Plain Water Stop Bath damages the fixer ?
What damages fixer is not using an stop bath at all (water or acidic) which throws developer in the fixer. Those are very basic concepts. Where Photo Engineer says that Water Stop Bath is worse than Acidic Stop bath.
Photo engineer said "I have used acid stops for film and paper for over 30 years with absolutely no problem, but have had problems of one sort or another with using a water rinse after development."
Me I've had problems with Water Stop, but only with paper, never with film.
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