chuckroast
Subscriber
Can I ask: what is it about stainless steel that makes it OK for avoiding bromide drag that does not apply to plastic reels and what is the effect of the reel being adjustable, i.e. if you have a non adjustable plastic reel does this change things or is the secret solely in the stainless steel?
As you point out below, so much of this is guesswork but ... I have found that the less the film is in contact with whatever supports it, the lower the risk of drag. Plastic reels have high ridges along the spiral groove that film sits in. The Nikor reels, in particular, have good spacing between wind layers and a relatively low support profile.
Is the secret of your success the height of the reel above the bottom of the tank, if so then presumably an empty reel below the reel with film would work? If it doesn't work then what is it about a lower reel that differentiates it from the success of the inverted cone
This likely would work just fine assuming the tank is large enough to accommodate 2 stacked reels. I use 1/2 gal Kodak rubber tanks so the inverted funnel trick suggests itself.
Just as an interesting aside The ShootFilmLikeABoss(SFLAB) presenter appears to have made a success of what appears to be almost non existent agitation i.e. 2x one inversion agitations in an hour ( one at the beginning and one at 30 mins)
Is this pure luck? I don't suppose we'll ever know unless someone were to do this at least several dozen times to see what the success rate was?
I suspect that's why he's getting such flat contrast. I do an initial 2min continuous agitation which - again - seems to help resist drag and to kick of a process that gives me good mid-tone contrast. I hold that as a constant. I fiddle contrast by varying two things: Switching from Stand to EMA and/or changing developer dilution.
That's what causes my puzzlement as I said We just don't seem to know what determines success or failure I admit that I'd be nervous about only 2 inversions in an hour and maybe that's why the negatives look a bit flat but as SFLAB says it might be fixed in the darkroom. He doesn't say how but I assume he thinks that a higher grade of paper would work.
He is the sort of person who may well make prints from D23 and Rodinal negatives in a future video
Thanks
pentaxuser
This inability to precisely predict what causes drag is what made me do such extensive testing. When I found what worked, I stuck with it. There are almost certainly other dev/time/agitation/suspension techniques that would work as well. That's why I keep saying - no one should try semistand or EMA unless they're willing to put some time into honing the technique for themselves. So many people here (and elsewhere) try it casually, never bother to do the work, and then complain that it doesn't work. This is a fiddly technique to squeeze the last little bit out of certain kinds of scenes (see Post #22). The good news is that once you get this dialed it, it's highly repeatable.