I agree with Matt King. You need experience first with something more traditional. Pick one of those films and gat some D-76 or ID-11 or HC-110 or something similar and fixer. Then shoot and develop consistently (maybe even follow manufacturer’s instructions) for a few months.
you might consider adding a shake of your mono bath in a L of caffenol c teaspoon recipe.
let your film sit in it for 35 minutes and bob's your uncle.
when I was doing stand/semi stand that was my routine worked fine... ( I used home roasted robusta beans and print developer but anything will work )
you might also consider mixing a batch of teaspoon caffneol c, and splitting your development between the mono bath and the coffee
first the mono. bath 1/2 the recommended time dump the mono bath and then use the caffenol agitating continuously the rest of the allotted time
when I process film that is my typical routine, processed hundreds of rolls and sheets this way ( probably for 10 years ) didn't matter the iso or contrast index rating
didn't matter the film ..
doing stand with the cinestill, just mentioning thats the only developer i have dealt with in any manner. And still get drag following the instructions.
doing stand with the cinestill, just mentioning thats the only developer i have dealt with in any manner. And still get drag following the instructions.
I agree, continuous agitation, and make it warmer instead of reducing agitation if you want to push a little. I wouldn't reduce the agitation any lower than every 30 seconds with Df96 under any circumstances; it gives bromide drag at one minute, even with only a couple rolls already processed.
It seems that the word "stand" is being interpreted differently by posters on this thread.
Looking at the Cinestill site : https://cinestillfilm.com/products/...h-single-step-solution-for-processing-at-home , it seems that the Cinestill process is basically a fixed process and that pushing and pulling is a function of chemical temperatures, not time.
In either case the effects of stand processing on the film would likely not be the same as traditional stand or semi-stand processing using a dilute developer. I suspect the fixer in the monobath will limit development fairly early in the process and the final result would not be markedly different than straight-forward monobath development, with the addition of bromide drag.
I agree, continuous agitation, and make it warmer instead of reducing agitation if you want to push a little. I wouldn't reduce the agitation any lower than every 30 seconds with Df96 under any circumstances; it gives bromide drag at one minute, even with only a couple rolls already processed.
For Df96, "recommended agitation" is constant agitation. They call a 30 second cycle "reduced agitation". And most of the time, they recommend increasing temperature rather than decreasing agitation. Standard cycles is only three minutes, after all, six for T-grain and delta grain films, but that's mainly because it takes longer to fix.
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