Stand developing

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juan

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I agree with Matt King. You need experience first with something more traditional. Pick one of those films and gat some D-76 or ID-11 or HC-110 or something similar and fixer. Then shoot and develop consistently (maybe even follow manufacturer’s instructions) for a few months.
 

removed account4

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you might consider adding a shake of your mono bath in a L of caffenol c teaspoon recipe.
let your film sit in it for 35 minutes and bob's your uncle.
when I was doing stand/semi stand that was my routine worked fine... ( I used home roasted robusta beans and print developer but anything will work )
you might also consider mixing a batch of teaspoon caffneol c, and splitting your development between the mono bath and the coffee
first the mono. bath 1/2 the recommended time dump the mono bath and then use the caffenol agitating continuously the rest of the allotted time
when I process film that is my typical routine, processed hundreds of rolls and sheets this way ( probably for 10 years ) didn't matter the iso or contrast index rating
didn't matter the film ..
 

Auer

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FWIW, My best results with DF96 has been with continuos agitation (Rotational in a lab-box)

I dont think I would stand with it. Cinestill warns clearly about bromide drag on anything over 1 minute with no agitation.
 
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tballphoto

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im not
FWIW, My best results with DF96 has been with continuos agitation (Rotational in a lab-box)

I dont think I would stand with it. Cinestill warns clearly about bromide drag on anything over 1 minute with no agitation.

doing stand with the cinestill, just mentioning thats the only developer i have dealt with in any manner. And still get drag following the instructions.
 

Donald Qualls

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I agree, continuous agitation, and make it warmer instead of reducing agitation if you want to push a little. I wouldn't reduce the agitation any lower than every 30 seconds with Df96 under any circumstances; it gives bromide drag at one minute, even with only a couple rolls already processed.
 

Wallendo

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It seems that the word "stand" is being interpreted differently by posters on this thread.
Looking at the Cinestill site : https://cinestillfilm.com/products/...h-single-step-solution-for-processing-at-home , it seems that the Cinestill process is basically a fixed process and that pushing and pulling is a function of chemical temperatures, not time.

The actual datasheet: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...nstructions_Complete.pdf?14374404616962145803 makes the process seem even more complicated as both agitation and temperature seem to have some effect.

In either case the effects of stand processing on the film would likely not be the same as traditional stand or semi-stand processing using a dilute developer. I suspect the fixer in the monobath will limit development fairly early in the process and the final result would not be markedly different than straight-forward monobath development, with the addition of bromide drag.
 
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tballphoto

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I agree, continuous agitation, and make it warmer instead of reducing agitation if you want to push a little. I wouldn't reduce the agitation any lower than every 30 seconds with Df96 under any circumstances; it gives bromide drag at one minute, even with only a couple rolls already processed.

I admit the rolls that exceeded the recommended agitation DID turn out to have slightly better results.
 

Donald Qualls

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I admit the rolls that exceeded the recommended agitation DID turn out to have slightly better results.

For Df96, "recommended agitation" is constant agitation. They call a 30 second cycle "reduced agitation". And most of the time, they recommend increasing temperature rather than decreasing agitation. Standard cycles is only three minutes, after all, six for T-grain and delta grain films, but that's mainly because it takes longer to fix.
 
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