In split grade, 0 and 5 are two different things. Simplified, 0 is for highlights and 5 is for maximum black. So reducing one does not mean you have to compensate the other.(I posted this to the wrong forum, re-posting)
I have become addicted to split-grade printing. However some prints come out a bit flat and dingy. I assume the problem is the 00 exposure. My question (because I won't get back to the darkroom until the weekend) is when I reduce the 00 exposure, should I compensate by adding to the 5 exposure to keep the dmax? I will experiment this weekend but would like a head start in this matter.
If you do not get acceptable results, you are doing something wrong. Of course there is always some burning and dodging to do.For me the 00 + 5 form of split-grade printing never delivers acceptable results. This is because all of the highlights, specular highlights and lighter greys all receive 00 exposure which makes them all go flat (or at least they loose their brilliance).
Sure 00 + 5 split-grade printing delivers a relatively high level of acceptable prints but I find that none of them are really great and all lack that particular ‘glow’ that I like. Generally, I make my prints at a fixed grade with some dodging and burning and this maintains the micro-contrast that I like in my prints. Where I do use a form of split-grade printing is when a fixed grade delivers a good print accept for a particular area that, even with burning, remains to 'bright' or contrasty. In this situation, I will burn in with a lower grade of contrast (or selectively pre-flash the area). This tames this particular area of the print without reducing the micro-contrast of the mid to dark shadow areas in the rest of the print.
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de
should I compensate by adding to the 5 exposure
Yes, there is. Printing with selected filters is like an equation with two unknowns, time and grade. You can only solve it by trial and error. Some people are very good at that. I’m not.Is there any fundamental difference between split grade printing or printing with properly selected multigrade filters (or a color head) ? In theory an equally timed exposure with grade 00 and grade 5 filters should be equal to grade 2.5.
In theory, yes, but others have noticed in the past that some papers don't respond very well to the 00 filter. The characteristic curve when using the 00 filter alone can give a strange result with some papers that looks a bit like a very pronounced shoulder. There's an abrupt reduction of contrast in the denser tones. This however can be overcome by using the 0, or 0,5 filter as the soft filter. There aren't really any drawbacks doing so, unless a pure 00 filter print is what is needed. But that would be very unusual.Is there any fundamental difference between split grade printing or printing with properly selected multigrade filters (or a color head) ? In theory an equally timed exposure with grade 00 and grade 5 filters should be equal to grade 2.5.
In theory an equally timed exposure with grade 00 and grade 5 filters should be equal to grade 2.5.
OMG that's an awesome idea. Maybe other people knew this, but I didn't. I appreciate your mentioning of this!!I use test grids, usually 2 second intervals, with 00 on one axis and 5 on the other. This gives a good starting point
OMG that's an awesome idea. Maybe other people knew this, but I didn't.
My number 100 postFrom: darkroom Dave:
- In simple terms, the grade 0 low contrast exposure gives you control of the light grey areas in your print. To add more detail in these ‘highlights’ increase the grade 0 exposure time. To increase the overall print contrast increase the grade to 0.5, 1, 1.5 or 2. Be careful to avoid having white patches with no detail in your print. If this happens reduce the contrast again. Obviously if your print looks dull and without any bright areas (assuming it should have bright areas!) then decrease the exposure times until you see some.
- The high contrast exposure gives you control of the blacks and shadows. Increase this time until you see good blacks or decrease it until you can see some details in the shadows without completely losing your blacks. Be careful not to reduce your blacks to dark grey or your print will look low contrast! I always use grade 5 for the high contrast exposure.
The text is from: Darkroom Dave
Click the Text above, or this link:
http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/split-grade-printing/
Split-grade has always struck me as a fairly pointless endeavour, especially when you've got multiple grades available, not to mention pre & post-flash, potassium ferricyanide etc, all of which will get you to a better result faster & less painfully. The less doctrinaire you are about your printing approach, the better.
(I posted this to the wrong forum, re-posting)
I have become addicted to split-grade printing. However some prints come out a bit flat and dingy. I assume the problem is the 00 exposure. My question (because I won't get back to the darkroom until the weekend) is when I reduce the 00 exposure, should I compensate by adding to the 5 exposure to keep the dmax? I will experiment this weekend but would like a head start in this matter.
Printing, and especially dodging and burning, using different filter grades seems to me to be a way easier solution than flashing paper or bleaching. Switching filters takes only a second or two.
I rarely do true split filter printing but I am almost always incorporating different grades into my prints. For example I may do a basic exposure at grade 3, but then use a low contrast filter to burn in skies or other highlight areas to blend them in better, or burn areas in at high contrast to improve shadows. Why not take full advantage of the properties of multigrade paper?
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