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Yes, reminds me of my graduate school days, back in the paleolithic era.Enjoy.
The internet these days. You know how long it took me to track down all these papers? Searching through the stacks at USC and UCLA, and all those hours standing over a hot copier machine.
How about the x-axis? Does each point represent a photo that was evaluated?The vertical axis is log-E or today log-H which I have to believe is the difference in where the film speed fell from the aim of 0. 0.1 would be 1/3 stop. The plus and minus would be considered faster or slower speeds than the judged speed.
How about the x-axis? Does each point represent a photo that was evaluated?
The biggest advantage of the "first excellent print" approach is that it references how a large percentage of viewers see things.I admire the work Jones and his group did. However it is difficult to know if the results correlate with the way I print, so all I could ever really say about negative film speeds is that they are a good standard.
Maybe I would have considered the first excellent prints excellent. Maybe not. One thing I have noticed over the years is that the way in which “the photographic public at large” (quoting Jones) looks at prints is somewhat at odds with my own preferences. Nothing snobby or right/wrong meant by this. Just a difference.
In any case, it is the derivative of density with respect to exposure (ie contrast) that matters. It seems like that should be trivially obvious (and I suspect it always was), but empirical evidence is good.
Is it decreased resolution you are seeing or increased grain or both?This shows that over-exposure and over-development are horrible for small format negatives.
I just printed some HP5 Minox negatives. Exposed at EI 200 and inadvertently processed for 6 min, instead of my normal 5 min for that film.
The image is in focus and the shutter speed is 1/2000, yet the resolution has diminished quite substantially from what would be achieved under ideal conditions.
View attachment 271411
View attachment 271412
a density of 0.1 over base plus fog as choice of speed point or 2/3 below box speed has always served me well in my film testing.I am not sure if this post goes best in the exposure section of the darkroom section.
I understand that early-on Kodak folks considered the best choice for speed point would be where the slope of the characteristic curve is 1/3 of gamma. Later they joined the rest of the world and went with a density of 0.1 over base plus fog as choice of speed point.
I suppose for a short toe film there's probably not much difference, but for a long toe film it might make a difference. If so, and if one could do accurate measurements of the slope of the characteristic curve (admittedly a challenge), for determining one's personal film speed (EI), would 1/3 gamma be a better choice than 0.1 over base plus fog? Intuitively it seems to me that it would be a better choice.
When I mentioned a short toe film it is based on the idea that if the curve was a straight line with a perfect break to zero slope at the toe (i.e. no toe) there would be no difference between the two methods. That's why I speculate that for a short toe film the two choices are probably not much different.
Opinions?
It is true that any method based on slopes extracted from experimental data is going to be subject to error. In essence, when you take derivatives of noisy data the process ends up amplifying noise, and experimental data always contains noise to some extent.Excerpts from The Theory of the Photographic Process, 3rd edition.
"In a practical sense, however, the fractional gradient criterion has certain weaknesses. The method requires the determination of two gradient values, and unless great care is taken in making these measurements, significant errors can arise in the determination of speed. For this reason primarily, the fractional gradient criterion has not received universal acceptance. Experience with its use has shown that the errors arising from the measurement of the two gradients more than offset the theoretical advantage of the fractional gradient criterion. The fixed-density criterion for determining speed has found strong support on the grounds that it is more convenient to use and is subject to smaller experimental errors than the fractional gradient criterion.
The possibility of effecting a compromise between the fractional gradient method and the fixed density method for determining speeds was suggested in a paper by Nelson and Simonds. They studied the sensitometric characteristics of hundreds of different kinds of negative materials and found that the relation between fractional gradient speeds and speeds based on a density of 0.10 above fog is systematically related to the average gradient of the D-log E curve on which the measurements are made."
"In 1957, the responsible committees of the American Standards Association undertook the drafting of a revised American Standard Method for Determining Speed of Photographic Negative Materials. One of the primary objectives in writing the new standard was to specify a method of testing which would permit the use of a fixed density speed criterion. The view was held that by abandoning the fractional gradient criterion, which had been specified in previous American Standards, and adopting a fixed density criterion, a serious obstacle in the way of international agreement on the method for determining speed would be removed. Because, in addition, the use of a 0.1 fixed density criterion in consideration with a suitable development specification offers the convenience and precision characteristic of this criterion and retains the practical significance of the fractional gradient criterion, this method was adopted in the new American Standard."
Actually not that crazy. We could to it here on phototrio. The most difficult part will be making the prints and ensuring a traceable path of data back to the original exposure. Can you think of any other way to make the negatives other than photographing a transparency? Maybe with a camera with interchangeable film backs and motor drive, one could rapidly get the negatives in a short period of time for a real-life scene that is very stable in lighting.(Tongue in Cheek but sort of chuckling what if) The way things are these days, maybe we should all participate in crowd source based print judgement speed tests whenever a new film, developer or technique comes out.
Can you think of any other way to make the negatives other than photographing a transparency?
I never knew there was a second peak!
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