[...]... Two, my development isn't even. I used trays and there are some areas that didn't get developed. These look like the same patterns I noticed in the bleach when the antihalation dye clumped in the eddy currents from the agitation (quite neat to actually get to watch under safe light). A longer dev time and more random agitation pattern should be able to fix this.
...[...]
I used this technique a lot back in the 90's/early 2000's. I experimented with many different films, and TMY gave the best results. One can get amazing contractions with this technique, but... My main film has always been HP5, and I could only get mediocre results.
Andrew, with the HP5+ did you persevere with time/concentration/bromide (mentioned above)? Just wondering, as I'm about to chage over to HP5+ now that I've used almost all of my Neopan400.
Hmmmm, it should also work with contrasty film, right?
Just tried it with Rollei Retro 80S/Aviphot 80 slides, 2min bleaching time - shadows lifted, nice! Now just to fine-tune.
I was pulling Rollei Retro 80S to ISO 25 + SLIMT 5ml, 2minutes. Shadows were quite more open compared to the same pull without SLIMT - currently I'm running tests to verify this with normal processing and to arrive at a time/concentration.
If the results will be consistent and beneficial, I'll make a detailed post.
Doesn't hurt trying - imparts additional expense of whopping 0,0004 cents per film : D
This is the famous stand development isn't? Can you say what the variety of developer and film you have had success with and is it possible to show us the results?I have a found that an hour-long development cycle in highly dilute developer with one midpoint agitation will give you:
1. Full box speed
2. Expanded mid tone contrast
3. Very well managed highlights
This works across a variety of developer and film combination.
This seemed to me to be far less fiddly than trying to work out how exactly to apply SLIMT, so I never pursued it further.
This is the famous stand development isn't? Can you say what the variety of developer and film you have had success with and is it possible to show us the results?
Given that what you do has nothing to do with SLIMT other than produce acceptable results that meet your requirements , it might be better to start a new thread on Stand Development and Your Success
Just a thought
pentaxuser
Starting with the 2021 image of the snow on the trees, these are scans of silver prints done semistand or EMA:
My 2 cents, starting to familiarize with this - Farmer and Stand will act globally, SLIMT acts selectively.Perhaps a not so smart question, but how/where does Slimt stands in relation to the FARMER'S Reducer?
but how/where does Slimt stands in relation to the FARMER'S Reducer?
My 2 cents, starting to familiarize with this - Farmer and Stand will act globally, SLIMT acts selectively.
If I dig my midtones and highlights, but lack shadow detail or vice versa, I'll employ SLIMT not Stand or Farmer.
(I've left this on this thread because it's a comparison of SLIMT and long standing development and still on topic, I think.)Hmm, I'd expect far less contrast from Stand developed film, contrast boosted in printing stage?
Because that's about the contrast and shadow detail I get from my technical emulsions where SLIMT helps to balance things out without producing flat uniform gray slides due to stand development
Different birds altogether, yields different results.
Bromide drag is the reason I am not doing this regularly as I got plenty of streaks even doing semi stand, but I might retry with having empty reel at the bottom. Because as you said, the edge sharpness increases lovely, making sharp slides to appear even more so! And flattens extreme contrast nicely.When I first went down this rabbit hole a few years ago, it was astonishing the amount of religious fervor this discussion engenders. Some people where strong supporters, some were honestly curious, but a surprising number of "internet experts" assured me it was complete nonsense and snakeoil - often without having ever tried it themselves. That's why I went off to do my own testing. Once I mastered the film suspension problem, I got really good results.
Bromide drag is the reason I am not doing this regularly as I got plenty of streaks even doing semi stand, but I might retry with having empty reel at the bottom. Because as you said, the edge sharpness increases lovely, making sharp slides to appear even more so! And flattens extreme contrast nicely.
How do you control contrast in stand? More developer?
If I could avoid Bromide drag with PQ Universal, I'd do both - Stand and SLIMT - employ one or the other where needed.
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