Try what?
Recovering silver from used fixer..
Silver Recovery in the Home Darkroom.
This information was provided to me by the late Ron Mowery (a chemical engineer at Kodak
I'm not sure why I'm getting the extra 'space between 'lines' But here it be
After many years, I have taken to stop dumping my used film and print fixer ‘down the drain and have been recovering the silver from all print and film fixers rather than disposing used silver-loaded chemicalsdown the drain….. to be ‘lost forever”
All used B/W film and Print fixer is NOT going into the municipal sewer system or perhaps an out-of-town septic tank (where it is ‘lost forever)
I have a large glass carboy into which I ‘dump’ ALL my well used fixer.. I then add a volume of used-but-not ‘dead film and paper developer put the cap on (nice and ‘snug) and give the carboy a good shake’ (over the next few days and ‘eventually set it down until there is a layer of a black ‘powder’ ‘on the bottom of the carboy. I then make the effort to “gently’ syphon off as much of the ‘clear’ liquid as possible leaving an ‘inch or so’ of liquid ‘above the black layer. I add more used fixer and a little more ‘used but not dead developer’.. again… shake well to get a ‘good mix’ then let it settle again (it may take a day or more or until I have more fixer for ‘disposal’ After numerous ‘sessions’ of add used fix and used but not dead developer and the shake and allow to settle I have what is known as “Black Silver” (the purest form of silver you can ‘get/find’ after couple of good washings with warm water and a last one with distilled water. The carboy and contents are once more given a good ‘shaking’ to get the black ‘powder’ somewhat evenly ‘distributed’ and then ‘gently put through a conical filter paper and ‘allowed to dry.
The recovered black ‘dust’ is (apparently) the purest form of silver you can get.
Melt that down in a muffle furnace or at a jewellery repair facility for melting (perhaps) for a ‘percentage’ of the value.. or sell it to them ‘outright’
It IS a bit more of an effort (and your ‘time’) but so much better than pouring it down the drain ‘to be LOST forever”.
For those of you ‘out of town, it ‘may’ do some damage to your septic system (or…so I’ve been told)
-) use an enemal-oven, but those that reach a temperature high enough are expensive, unless you find a used one of the right temperature by accident at a yard sale.I do not have a way to melt it down.
-) use an enemal-oven, but those that reach a temperature high enough are expensive, unless you find a used one of the right temperature by accident at a yard sale.
The advantage of this approach is that one could locate the oven in the open and stand away. By this keeping gases (from resting oxdized developing agent etc.) away.
-) use a torch
Recovering silver from used fixer..
Silver Recovery in the Home Darkroom.
This information was provided to me by the late Ron Mowery (a chemical
engineer at Kodak
I'm not sure why I'm getting the extra 'space between 'lines' But here it be
After many years, I have taken to stop dumping my used film and print
fixer ‘down the drain and have been recovering the silver from all
print and film fixers rather than disposing used silver-loaded chemicals
down the drain….. to be ‘lost forever”
All used B/W film and Print fixer is NOT going into the municipal sewer
system or perhaps an out-of-town septic tank (where it is ‘lost forever)
I have a large glass carboy into which I ‘dump’ ALL my well used fixer..
I then add a volume of used-but-not ‘dead film and paper developer
put the cap on (nice and ‘snug) and give the carboy a good shake’ (over the
next few days and ‘eventually set it down until there is a layer of a black ‘powder’
‘on the bottom of the carboy.
I then make the effort to “gently’ syphon off as much of the ‘clear’ liquid as possible
leaving an ‘inch or so’ of liquid ‘above the black layer.
I add more used fixer and a little more ‘used but not dead developer’..
again… shake well to get a ‘good mix’ then let it settle again (it may take a
day or more or until I have more fixer for ‘disposal’
After numerous ‘sessions’ of add used fix and used but not dead developer
and the shake and allow to settle I have what is known as “Black Silver”
(the purest form of silver you can ‘get/find’ after couple of good washings with
warm water and a last one with distilled water.
The carboy and contents are once more given a good ‘shaking’ to get the
black ‘powder’ somewhat evenly ‘distributed’ and then ‘gently put through
a conical filter paper and ‘allowed to dry.
The recovered black ‘dust’ is (apparently) the purest form of silver you can get.
Melt that down in a muffle furnace or at a jewellery repair facility for melting
(perhaps0 for a ‘percentage’ of the value.. or sell it to them ‘outright’
It IS a bit more of an effort (and your ‘time’) but so much better than pouring
it down the drain ‘to be LOST forever”.
For those of you ‘out of town, it ‘may’ do some damage to your septic system (or…so I’ve been told)
IDK. Ron used to say all sorts of stuff. I can see him saying if you put developer in spent fixer black stuff precipitates from it, but the whole blasting it in a muffle furnace / crucible thing where it gives off toxic fumes is where I draw the line. LOL HAHAHASorry, I have a hard time believing that Ron Mowrey wrote about "black silver".
In any case, how does it work? Does the added develop the silver dissolved in the fixer? Why doesn't everyone for this instead of the more complex galvanic process?
I've been 'working under the dark-cloth for over 65 years (30+ of which were as a 'full-time' "Registered Biological Photographer"
in the employ of Agriculture Canada's Research Branch.
Ken Sinclair SDA, BFA, RBP, FBPA
OK It seems as if we have numerous 'dis-believers' on my 'how to recover silver from used fixer" pos
Mostly, I believe, from those who have NOT tried it.
You need to fixit first to get thesilver out off the emulsion; then, process as above but frankly this is all a bit OTT for me.Is it possible to reclaim silver from exposed photo paper and film? So much paper gets tossed here at school.
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