Huss
Member
I'd like to know as well. My F4 has pristine LCDs. I'd like them to stay that way.
I've seen pristine ones. And leaky ones. Trying to figure out why.
Same thing for Nikon F3.
I'd like to know as well. My F4 has pristine LCDs. I'd like them to stay that way.
I've seen pristine ones. And leaky ones. Trying to figure out why.
Same thing for Nikon F3.
I have no idea. That number seems crazy to me. Consider VR and focusing, especially beautiful AF-D lenses that use body focus motor.The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
I think it is a typo and may be 25.
The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
I have no idea. That number seems crazy to me. Consider VR and focusing, especially beautiful AF-D lenses that use body focus motor.
I'm pretty sure the real cell drainers were the AF-I long glass with their own large DC AF motor. The F5 in body AF screwdriver motor is a beast but it is pretty good on batteries.
The F6 matrix meters with pretty much any manual lens, the F5 cannot.
Both can use VR lenses.
The F5 has interchangeable heads.
Decide which one is of more value to you.
Easily fixed. My 50-135 f3.5 Ais and 25-50 f4 Ais. Both "chipped" for use with electronics.Still usable on my FM2n and F.
Just in case you don’t believe…
View attachment 285414
I wouldn't say that is an easy fix. You had to convert the mounts and spend money that most probably was more than the lenses are worth..
F6 works with anything, no conversion needed.
Easily fixed. My 50-135 f3.5 Ais and 25-50 f4 Ais. Both "chipped" for use with electronics.Still usable on my FM2n and F.
Anything from 25 to 250, depending on temperature and how hard you work it, according to Nikon's tests. See the manual, or the excerpt reproduced here:The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
Would you post a tutorial?
Here is where I figured out how to do it. And here is where I get them.
Some lenses are difficult and require machine work. Others are just glue and program. I'm a machinist with a friend who owns a machine shop.
Programming (which I use a D90 for) took a few tries to figure out. A drawback is EXIF with zooms. The chip's program will only allow one number for EXIF data. So I choose an oddball number. Like my 50-135 f3/5 is a 110 for EXIF purposes. That only matters with digital cameras. So when I shoot digital the EXIF will tell me the frame was made with a 110 lens at 110 focal length.
Anything from 25 to 250, depending on temperature and how hard you work it, according to Nikon's tests. See the manual, or the excerpt reproduced here:
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/specF5.htm
Lowest numbers are for a big screwdriver AF zoom in the cold.
I'm going to give this a try. I have an old 18mm that is fun to use, and a perfect candidate. Maybe I'll give that one a shot and see what happens.
Thanks for the links!
Just remember you need a digital Nikon w/LCD to program it as far as I know. Never tried with the F5 'cause it would waste a bit of film. Maybe ya can...or not.
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY: ![]() |