Should I buy an F5?

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mshchem

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Man, I've still got the NiMH, rebuilt battery backs and the fancy charger. If you want to use the battery packs you either need to shoot 10 rolls a day or use the refresh function every 3 or 4 weeks. The packs work great but I still make sure to have fresh alkaline AAs. :happy:
 
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The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
 
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Horatio

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I've seen pristine ones. And leaky ones. Trying to figure out why.

Same thing for Nikon F3.

I think Nikon knew there would be LCD issues, possibly because of the F3. When researching the F4, I came across something in writing from Nikon that indicated the LCDs would require service.
 

mshchem

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The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
I have no idea. That number seems crazy to me. Consider VR and focusing, especially beautiful AF-D lenses that use body focus motor.
 
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Yeah they said when the F3 came out that it'd need an LCD replacement in 10 years; obviously the F3 LCD mostly has lasted much longer than 10 years. I have 4-5 F4 with a few extra DP-20's and most of them have some sort of LCD leak. The worst ones I have cycled out of regular use and the ones that have it for me I can work around it or I don't mind it. My F5 seems very well used but no LCD issues.
 
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The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
I have no idea. That number seems crazy to me. Consider VR and focusing, especially beautiful AF-D lenses that use body focus motor.


I'm pretty sure the real cell drainers were the AF-I long glass with their own large DC AF motor. The F5 in body AF screwdriver motor is a beast but it is pretty good on batteries.
 
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Horatio

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The Magic Lantern guide says my lithium AA batteries should be good for 250 36-exposure rolls. Is that accurate?
I have no idea. That number seems crazy to me. Consider VR and focusing, especially beautiful AF-D lenses that use body focus motor.


I'm pretty sure the real cell drainers were the AF-I long glass with their own large DC AF motor. The F5 in body AF screwdriver motor is a beast but it is pretty good on batteries.

All I have are screw-drive lenses at this point, so I should get decent battery life. I’ll try to keep track but I’d estimate it will take me 10 years to hit 250 rolls.
 
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The F6 matrix meters with pretty much any manual lens, the F5 cannot.
Both can use VR lenses.
The F5 has interchangeable heads.
Decide which one is of more value to you.

Easily fixed. My 50-135 f3.5 Ais and 25-50 f4 Ais. Both "chipped" for use with electronics.Still usable on my FM2n and F.

DSC_4053.JPG
 
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I wouldn't say that is an easy fix. You had to convert the mounts and spend money that most probably was more than the lenses are worth..
F6 works with anything, no conversion needed.

Nah. $30 and some of my time. And then there's the price difference between the F5 and F6. Even if I paid someone to do it that would pay for a few lenses at the least.
 

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Would you post a tutorial?

Here is where I figured out how to do it. And here is where I get them.

Some lenses are difficult and require machine work. Others are just glue and program. I'm a machinist with a friend who owns a machine shop.

Programming (which I use a D90 for) took a few tries to figure out. A drawback is EXIF with zooms. The chip's program will only allow one number for EXIF data. So I choose an oddball number. Like my 50-135 f3/5 is a 110 for EXIF purposes. That only matters with digital cameras. So when I shoot digital the EXIF will tell me the frame was made with a 110 lens at 110 focal length.
 
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Here is where I figured out how to do it. And here is where I get them.

Some lenses are difficult and require machine work. Others are just glue and program. I'm a machinist with a friend who owns a machine shop.

Programming (which I use a D90 for) took a few tries to figure out. A drawback is EXIF with zooms. The chip's program will only allow one number for EXIF data. So I choose an oddball number. Like my 50-135 f3/5 is a 110 for EXIF purposes. That only matters with digital cameras. So when I shoot digital the EXIF will tell me the frame was made with a 110 lens at 110 focal length.

Awesome! Thanks for the link.
 
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I'm going to give this a try. I have an old 18mm that is fun to use, and a perfect candidate. Maybe I'll give that one a shot and see what happens.

Thanks for the links!

Just remember you need a digital Nikon w/LCD to program it as far as I know. Never tried with the F5 'cause it would waste a bit of film. Maybe ya can...or not.
 

Moose22

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Just remember you need a digital Nikon w/LCD to program it as far as I know. Never tried with the F5 'cause it would waste a bit of film. Maybe ya can...or not.

I've got a 7100 here that seems to fit the bill.

If it doesn't work, no harm done.
 
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