Looks like you are on buying frenzy. If this is it, you should. But if you are still intend to find some tool for regular photography... Do you really want to haul this pig ?
Should I buy an F5?
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Looks like you are on buying frenzy. If this is it, you should. But if you are still intend to find some tool for regular photography... Do you really want to haul this pig ?
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This one was nice. It ended up on thebay for $299 shipped. The seller dropped the price nearly $100. I found one (“pristine”) with the MB28 data back, a remote control and neck strap for less. It’s on the way. It will be cool to imprint exposure data between frames.
You know the deal....pics or it didn't happen. 
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How’s that?
mm lovely. I've never had a chance to shoot with the MF-28 and looks in fine shape.
The F5 that I got way back when has a very early serial number and looks to have several thousand rolls put thru it but it still hammers out the frames.
The F5 that I got way back when has a very early serial number and looks to have several thousand rolls put thru it but it still hammers out the frames.
Looks like a good deal. Good idea to grab some AA and CR 2032 lithium batteries.
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On the shopping list, along with more bulk film. Hopefully as good as it looks.
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Just out of curiosity, how do alkaline AA batteries compare to lithium types in the F5? How many rolls of film per set of batteries?
Never counted but would advise to just use lithium. Lighter too. I use a lot of MF lenses with my F5 so batteries last much longer.
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Pristine is right.
Man. Nice.
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Thanks. It came with a Magic Lantern guide as well, and the Optech strap looks unused. There may be some slight corrosion on one or two battery contacts, but it powers up just fine and all the controls seem to work. I thought there was a problem with the command wheel in Manual because at first the shutter speeds were jumping or sticking, but after a little "exercise" of the wheel, it's now changing speeds just fine. If it wasn't for minor paint scuffs adjacent to the hot shoe, I'd say it was in mint condition. It's actually a little shorter than my F100 with the MB15 battery grip. The CR2025 cells in the MF28 are showing low, but its display mimics the main LCD, so it appears to be working normally as well.
I have fixed many an electrical and/or switch issue with this:
https://www.autozone.com/miscellane...JQC7qBMb3Y6oS6s-MzRoCUGEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I use DeOxit; can't be beat...
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9008276&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9008276&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
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Thanks for the links. I have some electronic contact cleaner at work. It's actually within arm's reach.
The very last real pro film Nikon camera. Not sure about worst.
I have F3, F5, and F6. Also, I owned an F4. All great cameras. The F5 has the durability for longevity and the ability to use VR lenses. The F6 is great but I am less hesitant taking the F5 compared to the F6 for replacement cost.
As for an F4, the LCD bleed is a problem not shared with the F5. After having it develop before my eyes in a mint body, I just don't want to deal with it again.
Regarding digital vs analog, I am tired of chasing digital technology. Film lets me get out of that race. Enjoy the F5s.
That's a bonus. I cannot afford that race.
I just use the F100 and FM2N, but Nikon has marketed 'F6' as a "pro-grade" camera: https://cdn-4.nikon-cdn.com/e/Q5NM9...-Tmc2LI1QzE2CCBOrQ==/PDF/1799_F6_brochure.pdf
The F6 matrix meters with pretty much any manual lens, the F5 cannot.
Both can use VR lenses.
The F5 has interchangeable heads.
Decide which one is of more value to you.
So your F4 had perfect LCDs, then developed the bleed? How was it stored? (Batteries in camera? In a hot or cold location? etc). Just trying to figure out how this happens and if possible a way to prevent it.
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I'd like to know as well. My F4 has pristine LCDs. I'd like them to stay that way.
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