Shopping for a Spot Meter

[beemermark]

Buy one of the Nikon digital SLR cameras with the built in spot meter. You can also adjust the size of the center weighted spot which comes in handy. One more thing to carry around with the view camera but my D750 makes a superb spot meter, better than the Pentax one I used to own.

 

[AgX]

Built-in "spot"-meters are dependant of the FL of the taking lens, the hand-held spot-meters are not.

 

[ic-racer]

This is how I meter with my Sekonic. The number in the viewfinder is exposure compensation. I use it as my "Zone" for which I am metering using the conversion sticker I placed on the meter*. Due to the wide angle of acceptance (1 degree won't show a uniform value in any scene I have photographed) I almost always meter at Zone 2.5.

*I keep referring to that sticker because this meter is a little backwards compared to my SLR cameras with spot meters. In My Rolleiflex and Nikon cameras with built-in spot meters, one would set the compensation to Negative 3 to read Zone II.

 

[ic-racer]

Proposed zone sticker for the exposure compensation dial on a Rolleiflex for Zone metering with the built-in spot meter.

 

[tom williams]

There are only a few new spot meters but I presume you are asking about meters no longer in production. One thing to consider is ease of calibration. I'm using a Sekonic 588. I think it is easier to use for film than the latest model (which is designed for digital exposure, though can be used for Negative film too). Models like the Sekonic 588 can be easily calibrated electronically through the user interface, without any additional software, or without opening the device.

Usually you can find this out by downloading the PDF user manual for the meter you are evaluating.

About checking the accuracy of a spot meter, short of sending it off for calibration, and if there is no provision for user calibration: is it reasonable to compare readings with a DSLR? No doubt the lens used will influence the DSLR metering - is that a large effect using mid-range focal length lenses, in spot metering mode? Thinking about giving a spot meter a test run before buying....

 

[ic-racer]

ISO standards for digital are quite different from ISO standards for B&W negative film speed.

ISO 12232 shows five different techniques for determining the exposure in digital cameras. Many cameras don't indicate what the user ISO setting is based upon; saturation, noise, SOS (standard output sensitivity) etc.

 

[tom williams]

ISO standards for digital are quite different from ISO standards for B&W negative film speed.

ISO 12232 shows five different techniques for determining the exposure in digital cameras. Many cameras don't indicate what the user ISO setting is based upon; saturation, noise, SOS (standard output sensitivity) etc.

Hmmmmm ... I see what you mean, after reading Wikipedia a bit. Drat, another silver bullet solution debunked...

 

[wiltw]

About checking the accuracy of a spot meter, short of sending it off for calibration, and if there is no provision for user calibration: is it reasonable to compare readings with a DSLR? No doubt the lens used will influence the DSLR metering - is that a large effect using mid-range focal length lenses, in spot metering mode? Thinking about giving a spot meter a test run before buying....

One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.
I have used the same spotmeter and the same incident meter for over 30 years shooting film; in 135 and mefium format and large format. I find it equally valid in shooting my Canon dSLR, so I fail to understand claims that meter for film is not the same as metering for digital sensor!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Looking to add a spot meter for 6x7 Zone System shooting purposes. Looking for advice on which units (Pentax, Minolta, Soligor, etc.) to purchase. Flash is not important. This will most likely be an ebay deal.

Thank you for your thoughts.

- Dan

the best spotmeter for the Zone System ever made was the Pentax Digital Spot; You still find them used but rarely for $200 or less.

 

[SrMi]

Unfortunately, they do not make the spot meters as they did before.
I started with a Sekonic L-858D. It is a complex meter, and I'll use it with flash. I'm not too fond of the touch screen controls, nor waiting when turning it on.
Afterward, I got a Pentax Digital Spot Meter. It is now my favorite spot meter. I can use it instantly (no waiting) and easily compute the exposure using a zone scale sticker from eBay.

 

[hashtagquack]

Looks like OP already has gotten a meter but just adding in case of other potential spot meter buyers that Reveni Labs have their compact spot meter available for pre-order so that makes for an interesting option especially as they will be new. Personally I use a soligor though

 

[Danner]

Unfortunately, they do not make the spot meters as they did before.
I started with a Sekonic L-858D. It is a complex meter, and I'll use it with flash. I'm not too fond of the touch screen controls, nor waiting when turning it on.
Afterward, I got a Pentax Digital Spot Meter. It is now my favorite spot meter. I can use it instantly (no waiting) and easily compute the exposure using a zone scale sticker from eBay.

Plus one to everything you said about the Pentax, which I recently bought because of the thread. Spotmeter whatever your want in in Zone III, adjust the camera two stops darker using the ebay Zone scale thingy, and the negs will come out well exposed. Easy, effective.

My only nit, the spotter circle in the viewfinder needs more contrast, so it's easier to see, especially in lower light.

 

[SrMi]

Plus one to everything you said about the Pentax, which I recently bought because of the thread. Spotmeter whatever your want in in Zone III, adjust the camera two stops darker using the ebay Zone scale thingy, and the negs will come out well exposed. Easy, effective.

My only nit, the spotter circle in the viewfinder needs more contrast, so it's easier to see, especially in lower light.

I agree on the spotter circle, otherwise a great tool.

 

[Lachlan Young]

You don't need a zone sticker for the Pentax Digital Spotmeter to place shadows correctly. Just use full box speed and the IRE 10 ('1' on the meter) index to place your detailed shadows.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use the Pentax Digital Spot Meter with a Zone System Sticker. I use Zone 2, Zone 3 or Zone 4 as needed for each scene.

 

[Pieter12]

A note of caution to those contemplating picking up a used spot meter ( or other used light meter). The only person I know of that repairs and calibrates light meters, George at Quality Light Metric in Hollywood, is retiring and the business is closing its doors.

 

[dkonigs]

One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.

I've done this before. Its frustrating because you soon discover that, even if it looks uniformly lit to your eyes, the wall often isn't uniformly lit in reality.
I've also tried measuring off gray cards, only to discover that not all gray cards are identical and there can be a 1/3 stop difference from one to the next.

What I really want, is some "gold standard reference" light source that I can use for any and all meter calibration purposes.
For incident readings, a voltage stabilized enlarger lamp actually does a pretty good job here. I'm tempted to toss a gray card on the baseboard and see if the same can give good results for spot meters.
(Though this will still all be at a lower light level than typical outdoors.

The other problem I've run into, especially with older meters, is that error may not be consistent across the full range. Just because it gives the right result in dim lighting doesn't mean it'll give the right result in bright lighting (or vice versa).

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Pentax Digiral as well. There is a Zone scale you can probably find online and print and attach. I have two and they have been serving me well for many years.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/

it's the best spotmeter for theZone System ever made. AA used one.

 

[wiltw]

I've done this before. Its frustrating because you soon discover that, even if it looks uniformly lit to your eyes, the wall often isn't uniformly lit in reality.
I've also tried measuring off gray cards, only to discover that not all gray cards are identical and there can be a 1/3 stop difference from one to the next.

What I really want, is some "gold standard reference" light source that I can use for any and all meter calibration purposes.
For incident readings, a voltage stabilized enlarger lamp actually does a pretty good job here. I'm tempted to toss a gray card on the baseboard and see if the same can give good results for spot meters.
(Though this will still all be at a lower light level than typical outdoors.

The other problem I've run into, especially with older meters, is that error may not be consistent across the full range. Just because it gives the right result in dim lighting doesn't mean it'll give the right result in bright lighting (or vice versa).

It does NOT matter even that every grey card is not identical in density. What matters that your reference meter reads A CARD and your meter under test reads the SAME CARD in the same light, so that you can see if the meters do not agree!

 

[ic-racer]

One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.
I have used the same spotmeter and the same incident meter for over 30 years shooting film; in 135 and mefium format and large format. I find it equally valid in shooting my Canon dSLR, so I fail to understand claims that meter for film is not the same as metering for digital sensor!

DSLR and your hand-held meter may read the same, but they may not. That is the point. If you have calibrated you DSLR to film then that is not the same as claiming all DSLRs are calibrated for film.

 

[wiltw]

Not sure why the issue of 'for film' vs. 'for digital' is being raised. One will find film camera makers that differ from each other and similarly one will find digital camera meters that differ from each other. And one will also find digital meters that match film meters.
I have two meters which I used in the days of film and they completely agree with my digital SLR.

 

[alanrockwood]

I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?

 

[SrMi]

I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?

I guess it depends. If you are spending time setting up the tripod, focusing carefully, it feels natural to evaluate the exposure using a spot meter.

 

[Pieter12]

I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?

At that point, just use sunny 16.

 

[Lachlan Young]

I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?

An incident meter and your own shadow will (in fact, should) get you very close to a shadow indexed spot meter reading. You will need to adjust the EI on the incident meter (about +2/3 to +1 over box speed, depending on effective shadow speed in chosen developer) to get the right shutter/ aperture combination. There's plenty of BTZS documentation that explains why this works.