There are only a few new spot meters but I presume you are asking about meters no longer in production. One thing to consider is ease of calibration. I'm using a Sekonic 588. I think it is easier to use for film than the latest model (which is designed for digital exposure, though can be used for Negative film too). Models like the Sekonic 588 can be easily calibrated electronically through the user interface, without any additional software, or without opening the device.
Usually you can find this out by downloading the PDF user manual for the meter you are evaluating.
Hmmmmm ... I see what you mean, after reading Wikipedia a bit. Drat, another silver bullet solution debunked...ISO standards for digital are quite different from ISO standards for B&W negative film speed.
ISO 12232 shows five different techniques for determining the exposure in digital cameras. Many cameras don't indicate what the user ISO setting is based upon; saturation, noise, SOS (standard output sensitivity) etc.
One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.About checking the accuracy of a spot meter, short of sending it off for calibration, and if there is no provision for user calibration: is it reasonable to compare readings with a DSLR? No doubt the lens used will influence the DSLR metering - is that a large effect using mid-range focal length lenses, in spot metering mode? Thinking about giving a spot meter a test run before buying....
the best spotmeter for the Zone System ever made was the Pentax Digital Spot; You still find them used but rarely for $200 or less.Looking to add a spot meter for 6x7 Zone System shooting purposes. Looking for advice on which units (Pentax, Minolta, Soligor, etc.) to purchase. Flash is not important. This will most likely be an ebay deal.
Thank you for your thoughts.
- Dan
Plus one to everything you said about the Pentax, which I recently bought because of the thread. Spotmeter whatever your want in in Zone III, adjust the camera two stops darker using the ebay Zone scale thingy, and the negs will come out well exposed. Easy, effective.Unfortunately, they do not make the spot meters as they did before.
I started with a Sekonic L-858D. It is a complex meter, and I'll use it with flash. I'm not too fond of the touch screen controls, nor waiting when turning it on.
Afterward, I got a Pentax Digital Spot Meter. It is now my favorite spot meter. I can use it instantly (no waiting) and easily compute the exposure using a zone scale sticker from eBay.
I agree on the spotter circle, otherwise a great tool.Plus one to everything you said about the Pentax, which I recently bought because of the thread. Spotmeter whatever your want in in Zone III, adjust the camera two stops darker using the ebay Zone scale thingy, and the negs will come out well exposed. Easy, effective.
My only nit, the spotter circle in the viewfinder needs more contrast, so it's easier to see, especially in lower light.
I've done this before. Its frustrating because you soon discover that, even if it looks uniformly lit to your eyes, the wall often isn't uniformly lit in reality.One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.
it's the best spotmeter for theZone System ever made. AA used one.Pentax Digiral as well. There is a Zone scale you can probably find online and print and attach. I have two and they have been serving me well for many years.
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/
It does NOT matter even that every grey card is not identical in density. What matters that your reference meter reads A CARD and your meter under test reads the SAME CARD in the same light, so that you can see if the meters do not agree!I've done this before. Its frustrating because you soon discover that, even if it looks uniformly lit to your eyes, the wall often isn't uniformly lit in reality.
I've also tried measuring off gray cards, only to discover that not all gray cards are identical and there can be a 1/3 stop difference from one to the next.
What I really want, is some "gold standard reference" light source that I can use for any and all meter calibration purposes.
For incident readings, a voltage stabilized enlarger lamp actually does a pretty good job here. I'm tempted to toss a gray card on the baseboard and see if the same can give good results for spot meters.
(Though this will still all be at a lower light level than typical outdoors.
The other problem I've run into, especially with older meters, is that error may not be consistent across the full range. Just because it gives the right result in dim lighting doesn't mean it'll give the right result in bright lighting (or vice versa).
DSLR and your hand-held meter may read the same, but they may not. That is the point. If you have calibrated you DSLR to film then that is not the same as claiming all DSLRs are calibrated for film.One could simply find a plain, uniformly illuminated wall, and point the prospecitve spotmeter at it, and immediately do the same with your dSLR...both should yield similar readings even though the coverage angle are different.
I have used the same spotmeter and the same incident meter for over 30 years shooting film; in 135 and mefium format and large format. I find it equally valid in shooting my Canon dSLR, so I fail to understand claims that meter for film is not the same as metering for digital sensor!
I guess it depends. If you are spending time setting up the tripod, focusing carefully, it feels natural to evaluate the exposure using a spot meter.I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?
At that point, just use sunny 16.I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?
I have a related question. How important is a spot meter? Maybe this is naive, but what about using an averaging meter and then estimating (guessing) the what the reading would be for the shadows and highlights? With a bit of experience, and if you are using negative film, wouldn't that get you close enough for practical purposes?
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