Shooting film expired in 1975--Would you? And how would you?

[Kirks518]

I have 3 rolls of old film, all expired in 1975, and we'll assume they have not been store in even remotely decent conditions.

Kodak Panatomic-X, 20 exposure, 32 ASA
Kodak Plus-X pan, 20 exp, 125 ASA
Kodak Tri-X Pan, 20 exp, 400 ASA

I'm most curious about the Panatomic 32. How would you shoot this to guesstimate the best results? I'm honestly not expecting much, but it would be fun to experiment. Lowest ASA setting is 25 on everything I own, or has no ASA setting. My immediate body choices are Minolta HiMatic 7sII, Graflex Graphic 35, Zeiss Contaflex, Rollei 35 (and 1 of 3), and a variety of more modern SLRs. I'd like to try it in the Graflex, but wouldn't know how slow below box speed to shoot it. Any ideas?

 

[Dr Croubie]

I've heard HC110 B is good for cutting through fog on old films, but I've never tried it.
Rodinal Stand is always good for times you don't know the correct ei, low contrast and wide range means you'll get at least something, but probably foggier than with HC.
'1 stop per decade' (ie, overexposure) is also apparently a good rule of thumb (but it's a monday morning and I can't remember if that's for c41 or b+w).
I've got a roll of Panatomic from the 70s, and a whole bunch of sheets from the 40s and 50s too, but I haven't shot them yet, so I'm all up for other people's suggestions too.

Meanwhile, I shot a roll of 1979 FP4 (non plus) yesterday, at ei50. If I'd gotten home earlier I could have devved it and shared results, maybe tonight when I get home I can.

 

[DWThomas]

Well, you've got a few more years on yours, but I just shot some Panatomic-X dated December 1988 and got surprisingly good images (I'll be shooting more on Thursday in my C-3 for Argus Day). As far as I know, this Pan-X (from a 100 foot bulk roll) was just laying around in someone's basement or darkroom. I developed it 9 minutes in HC110 1+63, and though I metered at 32 and bracketed exposures slightly, all seemed pretty good. I think it's a safe bet the higher the film speed, the sooner/more deeply the film degrades. About three years back I developed a roll of 120 PX125 that had actually been exposed circa 1981 and got images. There was a lot of base density and some funky grain, but there were recognizable, maybe even printable images (I only sc@nned them). It's worth a try.

 

[Axle]

You'll be just fine! Use Xtol either Stock or 1+1 it really helps.

I shot some Verichrome Pan that expired in 1969 with excellent results in Xtol.

 

[Kirks518]

I have HC-110, and was thinking of doing a stand of 45 mins with dilution H (1:63).

As for shooting it, should I go over by one stop, or should I just use it at 32 ASA straight?

 

[DWThomas]

I was shooting with my 1957 vintage Argus C-3 and I confess to not having measured any shutter speeds on it. So I suppose it could be a bit slow and maybe I gave more exposure than I think I did. It also uses the old 1/25, 1/50, 1/100 (and 1/300) shutter speed sequence which needs a fudge from my normal metering. I would suggest doing what I did, bracket at least a few of the exposures a bit, but based on my sample of one 27 YO roll I'd think a stop would be plenty.

I've never played with stand development, but that roll I shot last week was developed 9 minutes at 68ºF in HC110 Dil H, five fairly quick inversions every minute, constant inversions for the first 30 seconds. I might bump that up to 10 minutes next, but to me 45 minutes sounds like a long time, however as I say, never tried stand. I haven't and may never print them for the last word; I usually just scan and put them on the web unless I'm aiming at a show.

 

[darkosaric]

I have HC-110, and was thinking of doing a stand of 45 mins with dilution H (1:63).

As for shooting it, should I go over by one stop, or should I just use it at 32 ASA straight?

For old films I would avoid long developing - better use dilution B and short developing times. In that way you will reduce the fog.
Fresh films I develop usually in semi stand technique for 45-60 min, but old expired one - better not.

 

[removed account4]

if you have ansco 130 use that
70 -72 degrees
1:6 for about 6 mins as a starting point.

give your film 3 stops over exposure

 

[Rick A]

I would shoot any and all of the film, with my camera just like any other film. By that, I mean you have to do a personal ISO test before shooting anything important to you.

 

[trythis]

I had the best luck so far with some 50 year old film using hc110 dil. a at 55°f. I don't remember the time but I also added 30ml of benzoatriole (spelling?) per liter.

 

[Siompa]

I've shot 3 rolls of tri-x pan 400 this summer that probably are about the same age as yours. Got them back from developmentlast week and they were pushed one stop. Kind of flat but they look okay. You might want to push 2 stops to get pass the fog. I don't think my rolls were stored well either.

 

[newcan1]

I have 600 ft of Ilford film expired in 1964...100 ASA but shoots as good as new as ASA 50.

 

[nosmok]

Pan X from 1975 will work fine at box speed. I shoot it whenever I can, most of my stock is from 1974 - 1989. I shot a roll that expired in 1958 and for that one I exposed it at 16, it also worked great. For Pan X, if it's more than 50 years old, add a stop .

--nosmok

 

[Kirks518]

Looks like I'll be shooting it as if it were new then. May bump a half stop, but will probably forget to. When I do eventually shoot and develop it, I'll lt you all know how it went.

Thanks!

 

[Whiteymorange]

Pan X from 1975 will work fine at box speed. I shoot it whenever I can, most of my stock is from 1974 - 1989. I shot a roll that expired in 1958 and for that one I exposed it at 16, it also worked great. For Pan X, if it's more than 50 years old, add a stop .

--nosmok

+1 on this. My last 100' roll of Pan X is from 1971 and is fine at box speed. Amazing stuff.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

I did some late 1970's Kodak Plus-X Pan PXP in 120 that I got for free (like 50 rolls ha!) and the best I found was DK-50 1:1 but HC-110 Dil B was pretty good. Xtol worked not very well at all, Rodinal was acceptable but not very pleasant; Microdol-X at 1:0 with a full stop overexposure on box speed was very good for extremely bright conditions. I personally think that the older formulas work better for older film.