Shanghai arrived

[Athiril]

Forgot I had other examples of this.

Crop for anyone interested (I didn't clean it that well).

 

[JW PHOTO]

Forgot I had other examples of this.

Crop for anyone interested (I didn't clean it that well).

Your example shows what I have found also and that's GP3 has a very good grain structure and doesn't seem to clump. At least it doesn't with the developers I have used. I don't have any Xtol developer, but I'm going to mix up some PC-TEA and try that with GP3. I think it might just be a good match for this film. The more I use this GP3 stuff, the more I like it. John W

 

[Athiril]

Mine's in Xtol Replenished at 24 degrees C, for 5m 45s, which is the time I use for the main Kodak films (Tri-X, T-Max 100 & 400), Delta 400, and Pan F+.

 

[JW PHOTO]

Mine's in Xtol Replenished at 24 degrees C, for 5m 45s, which is the time I use for the main Kodak films (Tri-X, T-Max 100 & 400), Delta 400, and Pan F+.

Well, I guess I was right about it being a good match with Xtol. I've only used Xtol at 1:2 or 1:3 and never tried replenished, but I hear Xtol replenished is similar to slightly diluted 1:1 or is it 1:2. Whatever it is your shots show excellent grain structure and darn good sharpness/resolution to boot. I prefer Acros and the two Delta films, but this stuff is cheaper and works very nicely with my type photography. I'll keep some in my older cameras(folders etc.) and Delta or Across in my "Sunday-go-to-meeting" cameras. John W

 

[Athiril]

From limited testing with my equipment I found that FP4+ was limited to a peak of 55lp/mm in Xtol replenished no matter what I did (even with heavy developer modification for speed loss that gets it up to almost 100 in another developer at a slower speed). That was in 35mm with a lens I'm sure is sharper at least in the center than the Mamiya I use here. Shanghai peaked about 70lp/mm at max.

 

[JW PHOTO]

The only resolution test I did on the GP3 was use my very, very good 80mm f2.8 "T" Planar on my old 500C with mirror locked up. I didn't have to count lp/mm as my old eyes could see that the film had some snap to it. Good stuff for the money. Not perfect, but darn good. John W

 

[Athiril]

I was counting mine off a high end scan, not off the film directly, so it's something should be attainable when optically printing without much hassle.

Charts have no depth, so you have to hit focus precisely on the mark, any small error reduces the reading. In real world photography it's easier to get sharpness then it is with a chart test, as your scene has depth to it, so it will have somewhere a perfect point of focus.

 

[Teri-twn]

Hope a quick lab test will help some to you.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26863765@N07/15393526927/

 

[JW PHOTO]

Hope a quick lab test will help some to you.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26863765@N07/15393526927/

That's pretty much the comparison I've found between the old batches of GP3 and the new 2016 expiration dated GP3. I've kept one of my first rolls of the newer 2016 GP3 on the shelf at normal room temps to see if it develops the dreaded DOT/number syndrome from storage. John W

 

[Teri-twn]

I did the oven test today to prove that "heat" is the backing issue of GP3 from -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26863765@N07/15559515776/in/photostream/

 

[JW PHOTO]

I did the oven test today to prove that "heat" is the backing issue of GP3 from -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26863765@N07/15559515776/in/photostream/

Great work and thanks for doing it. Well, that solves the mystery then! Now, to figure out at which temperature the transfer takes place? If it's at, say 90 degrees, that's not good. 135 or 140 degrees I could live with no problem. I guess I'll just keep GP3 as cool as possible, which won't be hard to do in Michigan shortly. John W

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Great work and thanks for doing it. Well, that solves the mystery then! Now, to figure out at which temperature the transfer takes place? If it's at, say 90 degrees, that's not good. 135 or 140 degrees I could live with no problem. I guess I'll just keep GP3 as cool as possible, which won't be hard to do in Michigan shortly. John W

Heat was not the only issue with my GP3, its not 2016 version but I always kept most of it frozen or at worst room temperature. I live in a small city right on San Francisco bay where we rarely gets temps higher than low 70's and usually in mid 60's so our room temps are very mild, few around here even have aircons in their homes. Worked great with no numbers showing up until about a year or so ago. So I believe age has something to do with it too. And I tried removing a roll from the freezer, defrosting for a few hours at room temp, shooting it and developing it immediately. No change.. Numbers galore. :-(

 

[JW PHOTO]

Heat was not the only issue with my GP3, its not 2016 version but I always kept most of it frozen or at worst room temperature. I live in a small city right on San Francisco bay where we rarely gets temps higher than low 70's and usually in mid 60's so our room temps are very mild, few around here even have aircons in their homes. Worked great with no numbers showing up until about a year or so ago. So I believe age has something to do with it too. And I tried removing a roll from the freezer, defrosting for a few hours at room temp, shooting it and developing it immediately. No change.. Numbers galore. :-(

Darn, I was hoping the issue of DOT/numbers transfer was resolved, but I guess it's a "gassing" problem dependent on both time and temperature. Higher temp - faster gassing! Lower temp - longer time to gas! I guess you have to buy smaller lots and use fast. John W