clayne, the simple procedure to remember is; after fix wash for 5 min, hypo clear for 5 minutes, wash for 5 minutes, tone, then quick rinse, hypo clear for 5 min, then final wash (time depends, use the residual fixer test). This is the archival procedure for FB papers.
Brian, this was just with RC paper. Before I had been washing for a short period, then tone, then wash. But then I had tried skipping the first wash and it resulted in staining. Was just throwing it out there so others could see how it might not work well with a standard rapid fixer.
I have to ask though, what's the point of hypo-clear before toning when one is going right back into similar chemicals? I believe my staining was caused by stop-bath carry-over and not fixer.
clayne, I'm not a photo chemist and I know others here could explain in depth, but a hypo clear bath helps residual fixer in the paper dissolve in the wash. Without using a hypo clear bath, you would have to wash for much longer. So using a hypo clear before toning is essential. Also, a hypo clear bath only needs to be used with fiber base paper. It is not needed with RC. Your staining was caused from no wash before toning. I don't believe stop bath carry-over will cause staining. Certain toners are pickier than others with inadequate fixing. Brown toners I know are more critical than selenium toners. With RC papers, a 5 minute wash after fixing is plenty, then toning can carry out as normal.
Its all the other "add ons" that differentiate one Se Toner from another.
Toning is much a complex thing that one persons results may well be completely different from anothers - yet both are equally valid.
Your Paper/Dev/Stop/Fixer/Tap Water all have an influence on the results
Its worth trying a few Se Toners - to find which one suits your style and personal preferences - but it does require you to be consistent through the ENTIRE process.
That means you need to be equally as careful about timing for your Stop & Fix baths as you are in the Dev
It can be extremely challenging trying to get consistency - but a well toned print is a thing of beauty
That's what Ansel Adams did. After a rapid acid fix
prints were moved to a 1/2 strength acid stop. There
they were held as prints accumulated. From there
they were transfered to a plain alkaline fix. His
plain fix: sodium thiosulfate sweetened with
sodium sulfite. Then to the toner. Dan
No problem. Many use alkaline fixer only. TF-2 is a Home
Brew very similar to Adams' Plain Fixer. Both use sodium
thiosulfate + some sodium sulfite. TF-2 has added sodium
metaborate making it a little more alkaline.
A fixer based upon sodium thiosulfate, even though
alkaline, will give off no odor. Use a water rinse
for a fumeless odorless darkroom. Dan
I have been trying C41 fixer for the last few weeks. Today I decided to tone some FB prints in selenium after a 15 minute wash. This used to be plenty with TF-4. However I got some nasty staining happening tonight. So I guess a longer wash is needed, or I should just go back to TF-4.
Last week I toned some prints, also processed in C41 fix, that had been washed for 60 minutes and dried. No staining was evident then.