Selenium Toners - Brand Differences?

[wiggywag]

Anybody tried the Adox Selenium Toner.

I'm after the subtle effect with the increase of Dmax. Is that possible with all brands or is KRST the best for this?

 

[clayne]

clayne, the simple procedure to remember is; after fix wash for 5 min, hypo clear for 5 minutes, wash for 5 minutes, tone, then quick rinse, hypo clear for 5 min, then final wash (time depends, use the residual fixer test). This is the archival procedure for FB papers.

Brian, this was just with RC paper. Before I had been washing for a short period, then tone, then wash. But then I had tried skipping the first wash and it resulted in staining. Was just throwing it out there so others could see how it might not work well with a standard rapid fixer.

I have to ask though, what's the point of hypo-clear before toning when one is going right back into similar chemicals? I believe my staining was caused by stop-bath carry-over and not fixer.

 

[brian steinberger]

clayne, I'm not a photo chemist and I know others here could explain in depth, but a hypo clear bath helps residual fixer in the paper dissolve in the wash. Without using a hypo clear bath, you would have to wash for much longer. So using a hypo clear before toning is essential. Also, a hypo clear bath only needs to be used with fiber base paper. It is not needed with RC. Your staining was caused from no wash before toning. I don't believe stop bath carry-over will cause staining. Certain toners are pickier than others with inadequate fixing. Brown toners I know are more critical than selenium toners. With RC papers, a 5 minute wash after fixing is plenty, then toning can carry out as normal.

 

[Martin Aislabie]

Anybody tried the Adox Selenium Toner.

I'm after the subtle effect with the increase of Dmax. Is that possible with all brands or is KRST the best for this?

All the Se Toners will give an increase in DMax.

Its all the other "add ons" that differentiate one Se Toner from another.

Toning is much a complex thing that one persons results may well be completely different from anothers - yet both are equally valid.

Your Paper/Dev/Stop/Fixer/Tap Water all have an influence on the results

Its worth trying a few Se Toners - to find which one suits your style and personal preferences - but it does require you to be consistent through the ENTIRE process.

That means you need to be equally as careful about timing for your Stop & Fix baths as you are in the Dev

It can be extremely challenging trying to get consistency - but a well toned print is a thing of beauty

Martin

 

[nlc]

Is it possible (or better) to use alcalic fixer before Se toning?

 

[dancqu]

Is it possible (or better) to use alcalic fixer
before Se toning?

That's what Ansel Adams did. After a rapid acid fix
prints were moved to a 1/2 strength acid stop. There
they were held as prints accumulated. From there
they were transfered to a plain alkaline fix. His
plain fix: sodium thiosulfate sweetened with
sodium sulfite. Then to the toner. Dan

 

[nlc]

Thank you for the answer. However, I woud like to use alkaline fixer only (Moersch ATS or TF-2). Is it possible? Are there any difficulties?

 

[dancqu]

Thank you for the answer. However, I woud like to use
alkaline fixer only (Moersch ATS or TF-2). Is it possible?
Are there any difficulties?

No problem. Many use alkaline fixer only. TF-2 is a Home
Brew very similar to Adams' Plain Fixer. Both use sodium
thiosulfate + some sodium sulfite. TF-2 has added sodium
metaborate making it a little more alkaline.

A fixer based upon sodium thiosulfate, even though
alkaline, will give off no odor. Use a water rinse
for a fumeless odorless darkroom. Dan

 

[L Gebhardt]

I have been trying C41 fixer for the last few weeks. Today I decided to tone some FB prints in selenium after a 15 minute wash. This used to be plenty with TF-4. However I got some nasty staining happening tonight. So I guess a longer wash is needed, or I should just go back to TF-4.

Last week I toned some prints, also processed in C41 fix, that had been washed for 60 minutes and dried. No staining was evident then.