Seeking Counsel--Nikon FE vs F with Photomic Finder

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PCC

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The 1.8 is a much better lens than the 1.4. (see Ken Rockwell)
I used to read what he says and believe it like it was gospel. Since then I've drawn my own conclusions and see that a lot of his reviews are less than perfect. Case in point: the old 35mm f/2, pre-AI, is a fantastic lens. KR discounts it due to flare problems. I've only seen one photo with flare in it from my version of this lens and I've taken hundreds of photos with it, some directly into the sun and some with the sun just outside of the image. The pre-AI 50mm f1.4 single coated lens is a really nice lens as well. Compared to an AI version 50mm f/1.4 it holds its own but I haven't tried pointing it at the sun or other bright light source, yet.

Comparing the pre-AI and the AI 50mm f/1.4 to the 50mm f/1.8D AF lens (I have all three) the 1.8 is lightweight and plastic but makes great images at all apertures. The 1.4s work best at f/2 and up so you only get to use f/1.4 for soft photos if you like that effect. The pre-AI is physically larger than either of the other two lenses, easily doubling the weight of the plastic 1.8D. The 50mm f/2, from what I've seen and heard, is a great lens but hype has driven its value up to the point where you can get a 1.4 for about the same price.

I've owned an F Photomic FTN and I currently own an FE2 (the FE2 was the first camera that I ever owned and the F was given to me shortly afterwards in a bag in about a hundred pieces because someone took it apart to try to repair a broken winding mechanism that I had Nikon repair). The FE2 has better ergonomics and is faster handling. The F is a mechanical beast and feels like it'll last forever. I'll never sell the FE2 but the old F was sold many years ago and I don't regret it. I've owned a Nikkormat and it's somewhere in between the FE2 and the F (not as heavy as the F but almost completely mechanical and the ergonomics are better). The only other film Nikon I'd consider buying today would be an F2 or FM2. I'm not looking for either at this point.

As as for the OP, keep the FE or sell it to get an FM/FM2. FMs are purely mechanical as the batteries only power the meter, and have better ergonomics than the F or Nikkormat. The FE only has B and 1/90 seconds mechanical speeds and won't work without batteries at any other speeds but the batteries seem to last forever in them. Nikon has made millions of lenses before the AF era and even some of the newer AF lenses work great with older film cameras like the FE/FM series. They made some really bad lenses but they also made a lot of really good ones, too. Avoid the bad ones and you will be fine. The real beauty of the Nikon system is that I can use a brand new lens on my old FE2 that I bought brand new in 1983 and I'm using lenses that were made in 1973 on my new D610. Try that with Canon!
 

Chan Tran

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I think the 50mm f/1.4 that come with the F is pre AI and if so it won't work well on the FE.
 

PCC

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The Pre-AI lens can be used with the FE in stopped down metering mode by flipping the aperture feeler lever out of the way. Alternatively, he can have someone machine the aperture ring to make it work as an AI lens (see (there was a url link here which no longer exists)).
 
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Thanks, I didn't even think of that. I reckon I'll go in to the buy the F and said lens as soon as I can afford too. Any suggestions regarding the starting price for auctioning a fully functional, clean looking F? I'll update with the pics, for you to give a more accurate judgment, or should I close this thread and open another one for that question?
 

John Koehrer

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There are three versions of the Photomic head.
The earliest has the cell above and to the left of the lens viewed from the front. It's not ttl.
Second version is the Photomic T, meters through the lens and the ASA has to be set to the maximum
f stop of the lens.
Third version and last version is the Photomic Ftn There's no indexing to the maximum aperture
like the T. It's easy to tell the difference from the front because it has a plastic tipped lever
on the left side of the head.
If the one you're looking at isn't an Ftn I'd pass on it.
Because you're looking for a mechanical camera I'd sell the FE and go with an FM or FM2. Fully manual
the battery is only for the meter and it's work with Non AI all the way up to the NON-G AF lenses.
The metering will be stop down with the oldest and the new lenses do not have an aperture ring.
 

leicarfcam

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I think the 50mm f/1.4 that come with the F is pre AI and if so it won't work well on the FE.

I've Ai'd a number of non-Ai lens with just a screwdriver and file. I can easily file straight and even but if you can't a machinist is needed.

These non-modified lens can be used on newer camera if they have the flip-up tab..
 

frank

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Nikkormats are tanks. Maybe check them out too. Do a bit of reading on the differences between the Ftn, Ft2, and Ft3.
 

leicarfcam

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Nikkormats are tanks. Maybe check them out too. Do a bit of reading on the differences between the Ftn, Ft2, and Ft3.

I have a FT-2 that looks as though it has been used as a hammer but is fully working including an accurate meter and a 50mm f/2 that is every bit as good as my Summicron..
 

frank

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Ftn: beautiful with its hot shoe-less pentaprism

Ft2: takes modern battery, open aperture metering with both pre-Ai and Ai lenses

Ft3: svelt without an external Ai lever/arm

all gorgeous in black paint!
 

Xmas

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The 1.8 is a much better lens than the 1.4. (see Ken Rockwell)

Not if you shoot in available darkness.

All the pros used the /1.4 I only had the now cult /2.

The screen is brighter and getting the focus easier and you can go closer than the /1.8s.

280gm v 155gm
 

trythis

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There is always the 50mm pancake 1.8 that was made for Japan only if you want to make things even more difficult on yourself. They focus to ~14 inches, but no index prong.
 
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Ftn: beautiful with its hot shoe-less pentaprism

Ft2: takes modern battery, open aperture metering with both pre-Ai and Ai lenses

Ft3: svelt without an external Ai lever/arm

all gorgeous in black paint!

Frank
The FT2 doesn't do open aperture metering with AI lenses, only stop-down.

Could you explain "without an external AI lever", please?
I think you are confusion some terms there.
The FT3 is the manual version of the Nikon EL2. They both have an AI ring on the mount with a small AI tab that can swing out of the way.
On your sentence I thing you meant "without an external Pre-Ai lever".
 

frank

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Frank
The FT2 doesn't do open aperture metering with AI lenses, only stop-down.

Could you explain "without an external AI lever", please?
I think you are confusion some terms there.
The FT3 is the manual version of the Nikon EL2. They both have an AI ring on the mount with a small AI tab that can swing out of the way.
On your sentence I thing you meant "without an external Pre-Ai lever".

You are correct, sir. Thank you!
 

leicarfcam

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Frank
The FT2 doesn't do open aperture metering with AI lenses, only stop-down..

Interesting...
I have a FT-2 that does open aperture metering with both non-Ai and Ai lens. It does not however do it with series E and autofocus lens. As long as the lens has the metering rabbit ears it will couple to the meter for open aperture metering...

image5.jpg
 

fotch

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It depends. Are you a old camera collector or do you want to take photos? The FE weighs a lot less, is smaller, maybe quicker in use. The F is a classic, heavy, and well made, however, older. I have both and would choose the FE for most shooting. JMHO
 

frank

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corrected:

Ftn: beautiful with its hot shoe-less pentaprism, open aperture metering with both pre-Ai and Ai lenses with rabbit ears, old 1.35 battery

Ft2: takes modern battery, open aperture metering with both pre-Ai and Ai lenses with rabbit ears

Ft3: takes modern battery, svelt without an external pre-Ai lever/arm, stop down metering with pre-Ai lenses

all gorgeous in black paint!
 

Sirius Glass

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I like the look of the Nikon F but I use the Nikon F100 and Nikon N-75. The F100 is the best 35mm slr Nikon built.
 

flavio81

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Hi,

I owned a Fe and owned two F's (currently only one).

The FE is one of the best nikons and can mount pre-AI lenses without modifications. It is lighter than the F and more capable (for example you can do double exposures, has the auto mode, shows f-stop in finder.)

But the F is a better built, smoother machine. If you like sturdy and smooth mechanics, and classic looks, you'll stay with the F. But make sure you buy a plain prism for it, because the camera is better balanced this way. That being said, most photomics allow you to see the shutter speed and f/stop from the back of the camera, which is really nice.

The Pre-AI 50/1.4 is a good lens, ignore any babble about coatings, this lens is contrasty and good, a classic.

Weak points or common failures of the Nikon F? Absolutely NONE. now, the Photomic prisms are commonly not working due to aged CdS cells that go out of specs, or faulty resistor rings.
 
OP
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Thank you for your rough summary of the 3 available version, I'll settle for a nikkormat ftn if I can find one, I used to love the OM1, I'd never use the hotshoe so I always remove them.
 
OP
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* I used to love the OM1 without the hotshoe on the pentaprism, I can sit and stare at it for hours. I put it through many hours of use and it got severely beaten up along the way, now I moved countries and I only brought my 645 but I feel like I need something versatile again just to carry around the city.
 
OP
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Hi,

I owned a Fe and owned two F's (currently only one).

The FE is one of the best nikons and can mount pre-AI lenses without modifications. It is lighter than the F and more capable (for example you can do double exposures, has the auto mode, shows f-stop in finder.)

But the F is a better built, smoother machine. If you like sturdy and smooth mechanics, and classic looks, you'll stay with the F. But make sure you buy a plain prism for it, because the camera is better balanced this way. That being said, most photomics allow you to see the shutter speed and f/stop from the back of the camera, which is really nice.

The Pre-AI 50/1.4 is a good lens, ignore any babble about coatings, this lens is contrasty and good, a classic.

Weak points or common failures of the Nikon F? Absolutely NONE. now, the Photomic prisms are commonly not working due to aged CdS cells that go out of specs, or faulty resistor rings.

Thank you for your well written and useful post, it's very much appreciated and I think you understand what I look for in a camera.
 

frank

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If you loved the OM1, a Nikkormat would be perfect for you, because its shutter speed ring is also around the lens mount.
 
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Interesting...
I have a FT-2 that does open aperture metering with both non-Ai and Ai lens. It does not however do it with series E and autofocus lens. As long as the lens has the metering rabbit ears it will couple to the meter for open aperture metering...

attachment.php

That is correct.
Many AI lens came with the rabbit ears.
Many working photographers when transitioning to the F3 removed the rabbit ears as they weren't needed any more.
One has to be careful when buying AI lenses for a Pre-AI camera. I only have one AI lens that still has the rabbit ears.
 

Xmas

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You can still get new old stock ears and salve damaged screw holes. But they will be the new fangled AIs pattern.

You can upgrade some lenses with micro drill and thread tap, but some don't have enough plastic on the aperture ring to make an easy job.
 
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