On the Pentax IQ zooms, the DX will set it to 800 and then there is an option to push the EV by 2 stops on the camera? Is that what you mean?
Yeah the flash almost doubles the size and weight. I use flash so a MjuII is far better.
On the XA2 all you control is iso (up to 800 IIRC) and rudimentary zone focus. You may want to read up a little on zone focus if it's new to you. The further the subject is from the film plane the easier it gets! (worst instruction ever but you get the idea). And yes go with the distances in the manual.
What's 'scenic' mode? The mountains/infinity?
If so... Yes.
Has anyone here used the XA3? I haven't.
Essentially the same camera as the XA2 (it seems) but ISO can be set all the way up to 1600.
I'm a bit worried the OP will get camera shake letting the camera shoot for 800 ISO.
On the Pentax IQ zooms, the DX will set it to 800 and then there is an option to push the EV by 2 stops on the camera? Is that what you mean?
You are going to assume that the exposure is 2 stops under exposed and push by 2 stops. Of course it would be good to test, roll of Delta 3200, shot in similar lighting, cut the roll into 3, one develop at box speed, one push and third at two push. I dont have any experience with T800 so dont how well it will push. Other film option is Fuji 1600 if you can a find roll, just one push to 3200 or 2 to 6400. Unless you are printing R44 analog the color can be corrected during printing.
Who are you asking?
OP = Opening Poster.
I have a question about "pushing" and "EV" on film. So, on digital, you set the EV to +1 or -2 or whatever stops you need to force the camera to adjust your exposure. But on a film camera, is there a similar function, or is all pushing and pulling done in the lab/development stage? I guess I'm a little confused about that.
I depends on the camera.
The best type of camera to learn with is just a manual SLR like your Mamiya. You don't need exposure compensation if your setting it yourself.
Oh ok! Haha! So you are concerned there will be shake on the XA2 because the ISO is set to 800? Why would that be?
I see. So let me ask you this: Is there a pro vs con reasoning as to pushing or pulling in camera vs having the lab do it? I mean, does it look different in the end?
Pushing is always done at processing stage (strictly speaking). All you are doing in camera is exposing.
You can underexpose X stops and push Y stops at processing. X and Y don't have to be equal.
Hope that makes sense.
Because there may not be enough light to keep shutter speed above a decent speed.
If your auto camera could set a higher ISO, you could push your film and you'd have a better chance.
TOTALLY! lol! I greatly appreciate your help!! (And everyone else too!)We're really covering some ground in this thread!
We're really covering some ground in this thread!
There aren't many cheap compact cameras I'm familiar with that allow manual ISO settings. The XA3 would be the obvious choice.
Hey, happy to help. I find it quite a useful/healthy to pass on my (limited) learning.
Those two are good cameras. I had a play with some Yashicas. I particularly liked the CCN. Read up before you buy. There are (easily overcome) battery issues. I hear the Canon has a documented mechanical failure point too. I prefer the manual and completely mechanical Olympus LC personally because whilst all of these have really good lenses, the issue is keeping them going – they were 'consumer' grade cameras.
By page 5 you'll have bought a Leica.
:-D
Do you have press credentials? If not, they may not let you in with an interchangeable lens camera. You really need to check.
What are the cons for those in your opinion?
I have a question about "pushing" and "EV" on film. So, on digital, you set the EV to +1 or -2 or whatever stops you need to force the camera to adjust your exposure. But on a film camera, is there a similar function, or is all pushing and pulling done in the lab/development stage? I guess I'm a little confused about that.
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