Scanners - current status

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swifty

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I was wondering what's the word on the current status of scanners now that we're in 2010.
I know all the R&D are in DSLRs or similar but I was just wondering whether there's much progress in scanners.
I'd love a dedicated film scanner but seemingly flatbeds are the go for the price/performance equation these days and the last I looked, the Epson V700/V750's seem like top dog.
Is that still the case or have there been developments with other manufacturers I'm not aware of.
I'm mainly interested in scanning film, including medium format.
Cheers
Dave
 

F80p

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Mee too looking at buying a scanner. Hope they keep the R&D going on in the film department.
 

Rudeofus

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I've played the "looking for a good film scanner" game a few months ago. At the moment I see only Nikon and Epson making anything worthwile, with Nikon gradually retreating from the scene (Coolscan V ED and 5000 gone) and Epson further expanding in the entry level area (new V600). Popular alternative seems to be photographing slides with a DSLR, but AFAIK no professional solution for this exists in this field, only ebay adapters and the like.

Note that there are still high end and drum scanners out there, but at prices which make owning them pointless for amateurs. Most common practice seems to be to scan in slides/negs with a medium end flat bed scanner and have only the very best shots scanned by a professional scanning service.
 

mrred

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I have a 4490 which the v500 replaced. I use it for mf and it does a good job. I am glad that I don't have to use it for 35mm, as those limits are too stretched. My guess that even the cheapest dedicated film scanners do a much better job than flat beds.
 

Worker 11811

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Most common practice seems to be to scan in slides/negs with a medium end flat bed scanner and have only the very best shots scanned by a professional scanning service.

This is what I'm doing.

I know it's not the very best thing to use but the Canon "Canoscan 8800F" is serving me well for the level I use it at. I wanted to be able scan photos and printed material as well as negatives and slides. I thought about buying a film scanner but then I would have to make two purchases and, at most, I'd use any given one of them half the time. Therefore, I'd be spending twice the money and throwing half of it away.

The Canoscan 8800F lets me scan film, slides, photos and documents, almost interchangeably. I just have to take off the cover from the lid and put the scanning frame in place then I'm off to the races. The thing can scan 9600 dpi. which is more than I can ever imagine needing, even if I'm cropping down to a small part of a negative. The light source is a white LED array so there is no warm up time and no change in color temperature as the lamp ages. (i.e. From scan to scan, it stays reasonably consistent.) Any changes or inaccuracies in color can easily be adjusted for, either in the scanner profile or directly in Photoshop.

The Canoscan has digital (infrared) scratch removal similar to Epson's ICE. It does a good job. (Canon's trademark is "FARE" vs. Epson's "ICE".) Personally I don't use FARE/ICE very much. I prefer to retouch the spots myself.

Canon's software is pretty good if you want a quick, easy way to scan images but I prefer to use VueScan from Hamrick Software. It gives me good control of exposure, contrast and color but isn't as expensive as SilverFast.

The Canoscan 8800F lists for $199.00 (US$) but it can be had for approx. $150.00

Again, I know the Canoscan is not "top notch" equipment but I don't need it to be just yet. Maybe some day, I'll upgrade to better equipment but this is serving me well for the foreseeable future.
 

Rudeofus

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That's right, Worker 11811, I totally forgot about the Canon, which is also said to be a nice scanner. Just don't be too sure about 9600 dpi the scanner claims, other users have guestimated the effective dpi to be around 1600. For MF frames that's still not bad.

@rnwhalley: renting a scanner makes sense if you have rare occasions where you need to scan a lot of material.
 

Worker 11811

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How do you mean that? The scanner does produce output at 9600 dpi. I have done so, just to prove to myself that it works. Are you saying that it only scans actual resolution up to 1200/1600 dpi then interpolates up to 9600, thereby giving you the illusion of a hi-rez scan?

The specs that I read on the device say that its hardware sampling will produce 4800 X 9600 dpi. I assume that means that it has 4800 pixels per inch across the scanning bar and the stepping motor can produce 9600 steps per inch. To get 9600 X 9600 dpi it simply subsamples the horizontal pixels to double the output. So, I guess I should only expect 4800 X 4800 true resolution. Correct?

Now, Canon's specs say that the scanner can produce a software-interpolated resolution of 19,200 X 19,200 dpi. Of this, I AM skeptical.
That would mean that the software is quadrupling the horizontal bits and (at least) doubling the vertical bits. I have yet to even find a way to get the scanner to do this, let alone to see what quality of output this would produce.

90% of my work would be output to one of the following destinations:
1) HP Photosmart inkjet printer.
2) Sent to a magazine or newspaper for advertising purposes. (Part of my job.)
3) Sent to a TV station for broadcast. (Also part of my job.)
4) Use on the internet. (Both for work and pleasure.)

Most commercial printing destinations won't need anything better than 300 dpi and very few of them will even use better than 1200 dpi. Broadcast and internet would hardly ever need more than 7200 dpi.
The only time I would need to have higher than that would be if I was going to print out larger than what my consumer grade inkjet printer can print. (Max size 8-1/2' X 14' Legal)

If I ever need any printouts bigger than that I would have to take my files to the local photography shop and have them print it out on the large format printer or a dye-sub printer. (The largest size a dye-sub can print is about 12" wide and most only go as wide as 8" or 10". Correct?)

So, the highest resolution I would ever really "need" to scan at would be 2400 or 4800. Right? The only time I would ever "need" to go higher than that would be if I was zooming in on a small part of a negative or slide.

Given that, the Canoscan 8800F is all the scanner I need 99% of the time. If I ever need more than that I would have the material professionally scanned.
 

Loris Medici

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Worker11811, to my knowing, the best consumer flatbed scanner around (which is Epson V700/V750, undoubtly) will give you a "real/actual" resolution of only 2300ppi. (Tested with a resolution target - from a very reliable source...) Which is (kinda) OK for MF (7-8x magnification) but pretty non-impressive for 35mm format. (Roughly 7Mp files from 35mm film...)

Regards,
Loris.
 

Rudeofus

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As far as required dpi go: the human eye at close range sees something like 300 dpi. If you scan at effective n*300dpi, you can create perfectly sharp (to the eye) prints at n times slide/neg frame size. Obviously, if the final print is viewed from further apart, necessary resolution goes down and as a result you can enlarge even more.

The line sensor chip in your scanner may produce any resolution, possibly 9600 dpi, but the lens in front of that line sensor isn't up to that resolution. Just think of it: 9600 dpi is roughly 400 dots per mm, which is 100-200 lpmm. Obviously a lens in a 200$ scanner won't resolve that, even if your neg/slide ever had such a level of detail. So you get 9600 very blurry dpi which boil down to an effective res of 1600dpi in your case, as has been measured by folks. Needless to say that digitally upscaled 19200 dpi also provide no additional image information.
 

Jeff L

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I have a Nikon 8000 that I picked up used and really like it. I ended up getting the MF glass carrier for it. The scanner has been repaired once (power supply) and there are not many parts left, I fear. The next time it breaks that may be the end. New 9000 are quite expensive. I have wondered if it would be worth it for Kodak to offer a decent dedicated film scanner just to support film sales- but friends have told me that what I don't know business and marketing is shocking..
 

Worker 11811

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The way I have always done things is to decide what my destination format is going to be and figure out what resolution that needs to be. Then I scan/capture at double that resolution and scale down to the final resolution at the end.

A 2400 dpi. or a 4800 dpi. scan is probably more than I would ever need. That gives me 8 times or 16 times overhead for scaling the image to the final size. Right?

Yes, I would like to get a really good film scanner but, at this point, I think what I'm using now will do everything I need. Next time around I can think about getting a dedicated scanner for film.
 

Rudeofus

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Next time around I can think about getting a dedicated scanner for film.
I just went the other direction and traded my Coolscan V ED for a V700+cash, partly because of my recent addition of an RZ67, but also because I just never used all this resolution the V ED gave me. Once I really have an image where I need to enlarge every detail there is in the film I can still go to a pro lab and get better results than any Coolscan could offer me. And I can have many high res scans done professionally for the price difference of a Coolscan 9000 to a V700 ...
 

pellicle

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Hi Folks

well of course scanners are dropping into specialist roles. Our organisation still uses these things for bulk scanning of 35mm "microfilm" used in bulk digitization and archival projects, there are still makers out there for this sort of gear.


Of course there remains the Nikon LS-5000 (for now) and the flatbeds such as have been mentioned work well enough for many tasks.

I'm currently using Epson 4990 and LS-4000
 

Loris Medici

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Bob Carnie

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Currently we are using Epson 10000xl flat bed, Fuji 2500 workstation for roll scans good for rolls and small prints, Imocan Flextight for large scans, and are using offsite a ICG360 for wet drum scans.
We are considering the purchase of the ICG , cash and the availability of parts , service, software improvements are are main concern.

If any one is aware of Drum Scanners that meet ICG360 level of scans, and are sure they are being manufactured now and in the future , I would love to hear about them.
I have seen lots of Tango, and Aztec scans and wondering if there are other devices of equal quality.
My friend Ted Harris came to my shop and did some amazing scans on a Creo Flatbed , his passing away came a week after he visited with my family and I never continued on with scanner as it was on loan due to Ted's word . But I have to say his scans were really good compared to Imocan, Tango and Aztec.
 

Worker 11811

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Some of the smallest detail - not pixels! - correspond to 10 mikron on film...

So, then, I assume you are saying that it would be virtually useless to scan 35mm film at any higher resolution than 2400 or maybe 4800 dpi.?

I can see where that would be true.
Honestly, I don't think I would ever have need to scan higher than that unless I was cropping down to a small part of the negative.

By your demonstration, does this show that one can scan at a high resolution if he wants: 9600... 19,200 or even 1,000,000 dpi but this would not show any better quality image... it would only make bigger and bigger files?
 

erikhatt

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Currently we are using Epson 10000xl flat bed, Fuji 2500 workstation for roll scans good for rolls and small prints, Imocan Flextight for large scans, and are using offsite a ICG360 for wet drum scans.
We are considering the purchase of the ICG , cash and the availability of parts , service, software improvements are are main concern.

If any one is aware of Drum Scanners that meet ICG360 level of scans, and are sure they are being manufactured now and in the future , I would love to hear about them.
I have seen lots of Tango, and Aztec scans and wondering if there are other devices of equal quality.
My friend Ted Harris came to my shop and did some amazing scans on a Creo Flatbed , his passing away came a week after he visited with my family and I never continued on with scanner as it was on loan due to Ted's word . But I have to say his scans were really good compared to Imocan, Tango and Aztec.

ICG is still in buisness. I have their 365 drumscanner. Just check their website.
 

Loris Medici

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Worker11811, you're constantly missing the point. Re-read the thread please. Also, see if you can reproduce similar quality/detail (to the sample I provided) with your own scanner. I feel that only then you're going to understand it's not all about dpi/ppi whatever... And again, "the best consumer grade flatbed film scanner will be giving you only 2300ppi equivalent real resolution, nothing more". (BTW, maybe you're getting close -> after reading again your last sentence...)
 

pellicle

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Hi

So, then, I assume you are saying that it would be virtually useless to scan 35mm film at any higher resolution than 2400 or maybe 4800 dpi.?

I can see where that would be true.


well that's about my experience too ... of course if your films size goes up from 35mm then even 2000dpi is a large file. I did some comparisons based on 35mm here. I picked 35mm because the lenses are quite sharp per square cm of exposed film. If my 90mm LF lenses were as sharp as my 35mm one's (and gave the coverage needed) I'd be stoked.

At some point your print size goes up to a place where you need to stand back further to even see it, thus you can print at lower DPI and go even bigger ...
 

Worker 11811

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Loris,

Your patience with me is very much appreciated. Having Attention Deficit Disorder but not being diagnosed until I was over 40 can sometimes create frustrating situations for me and other people. It might take two or three times repetition for me to understand but, rest assured, once I have learned I have a mind like a steel trap. :wink:

It is my understanding, here, that we are not necessarily talking about a particular "DPI" resolution to scan at but we are talking about some resolution to scan at which does not violate the Law of Diminishing Returns. In other words, we ask the question: "What is the point where my scanner will reveal no more detail in my image but will only produce larger and larger files.

Overall, we are asking what is the "State of the Art" in scanners which will produce a good image at a particular resolution.

In specific, I am asking, "How well should I expect my scanner to perform, given a frame of 35mm film under average conditions?"

I am a cinema technician by trade. I work with 35mm cinema film on a daily basis. Although the dimensions of the two versions of film are virtually identical, the emulsions might not be. However, the late John Pytlak, former Senior Technical Specialist for Eastman Kodak has said that a frame of 35mm cinema film can produce the equivalent of approximately 4000 lines of resolution per frame. A image frame on cinema film has different dimensions than photography film. Cinema film's image is .980 inches tall. It can produce the equivalent of 4096 pixels, vertically. That equals 4179 ppi. (4096 / .980 = 4179.59)

Number one: I know that cinema film emulsions and photography film emulsions are not necessarily the same. It is possible to use the same emulsions and they are sometimes used interchangeably but they are not always the same.

Number two: Developing of cinema film and photo film may differ. Again, they do not have to be different but they are not always the same.

Number three: Conditions under which the film is handled, exposed, processed and put to end-use may differ greatly.

Given those constraints, it is easy to see that it is not very likely that an average photographer will be able to achieve 4000 dots resolution from film. If we were talking about Mr. Pytlak, working in a proper laboratory with the full force of Eastman Kodak's resources behind him, I would expect this to be true but the "Average Joe" would be lucky to get that kind of performance. I, myself would feel lucky if I got half that resolution from film.

Now, with this premise in mind, I would expect 2400 dpi to be the maximum resolution that I could scan with my scanner before coming face-to-face with the Law of Diminishing Returns. I could scan at progressively higher resolutions... 300, 600, 1200 or more... and each time I would be able to reveal more and more detail in my image until, I hit that point at which no more detail would be revealed. At this point, I would be spinning my proverbial wheels in the sand.

It is your supposition that film produces detail of 10 m at the smallest level. I believe that to be true. It is also your supposition that the highest resolution that one can scan at which will reveal better detail, up to the limit of film's ability to produce detail, is approximately 2400 dpi. If I also understand you correctly, you are saying that, even if film was able to easily produce infinitely small detail, an average flatbed scanner could not produce a true representation of more than 1,200 or 2,400 pixels per inch.

I can see that to be true from your photos of the boat. The enlarged image, I can see where the pixel noise starts to blend with the grain noise in the film to produce a "speckled" effect in areas that should either show detail or should be continuous tone. (For example, the freeboard area of the boat, just below the outer gunwale.)

We haven't even covered the issue of "Zones of Confusion" whereby the resolving power of the lens may or may not produce sharp detail on the film, regardless of its resolution expressed in dpi. That even begs the question that the zones of confusion produced within my cheap, $200.00 scanner can even resolve the detail that is produced on film.

Now, I also propose that scanners, being producers of raster images in the Cartesian system can not truly reproduce a random-grain image as is produced on a piece of film. This is similar to what happens when we try to send our Photoshop images to a printer who will screen them for halftone: One pixel, or any number of pixels, do not necessarily correspond to one rosette in a halftone image. Neither will any number of pixels in an image correspond to a grain of silver (or halo of dye) in a film image.

What is the typical (although not necessarily correct) way to deal with images you know will be halftoned? Produce your image at double the screen resolution, edit then scale down to the final resolution for output. Correct? If this is true, why should we not do the same for scanning film but in reverse? Could we not scan at double what we think we need then scale down to the final output?

Yes, we would be going above the ideal resolution of film and we would be producing large files which do not contain 100% faithful reproductions of the original image, as it is laid out on the film but we have to mash film grains into a Cartesian pixel space or vice-versa. This task is going to take extra work.

I do not do this all the time. I believe you when you say the practical resolution at which one can scan is approximately 1,200 or 2,400 dpi, depending on the scanner. I follow your guidelines most of the time. But, when I come upon an "extra special" image that needs my full attention, I am not afraid to go as high as 2,400 or even 4,800. Yes, I know I am in that gray area when I am pushing the Law of Diminishing Returns to its limit but I have a fast computer with lots and lots of hard drive space and the latest operating system and the latest software.

I use a Mac Pro, 8-core computer which runs OS X 10.6 and Photoshop CS 4 and I have to 1.0 TB hard drives installed in addition to the boot drive. The scanner (Canoscan 8800F) will produce a full-frame scan of an Ektachrome slide at 2400 dpi in just a little more than a minute. The file size is approximately 22 MB. Raising the resolution to 4800 dpi produces an 85 MB image in two and a half minutes. These are limits I can live with. In fact, I would be comfortable with going to double that resolution but I know that would be silly. I truly would be spinning my wheels to do that.

I am not trying to be a pariah, here, but I feel it is important to explain myself in detail so that you understand me well. With my Attention Deficit, this is a difficult thing to do so I am trying to be as clear and detailed as I can. Then, once I have made myself understood, you can tell me where I have gone wrong. You are likely to have much more experience with photography than I have. I am only a technician for a movie theater.

The bottom line is that I do often follow your guidelines. I usually scan film at 1,200 or 2,400 dpi and leave it at that. However, on occasion, if I need to, I am not afraid to go as high as 4,800 dpi and I am confident that I am doing productive work even if I am treading the razor's edge of the line between productivity and diminishing returns.
 
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Loris Medici

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10 mikron is about where you become diffraction limited in 35mm. (An image shot with an F16 aperture, a viewer with a 20/20 visual acuity, a viewing distance equal to the diagonal length of the print.) It isn't even close to the limit of a quality 35mm system (lens/camera/film/chemistry), therefore you still need something considerably better than "real/actual" 2300dpi resolution to get all detail the film was able to record, especially if you intend to print big and/or want to crop. There's the question of grain aliasing too; a scanner with high "real/actual" resolution capability will be less prone to show grain aliasing phenomenon...

You still don't need to scan at higher dpi's with your Canon scanner since the inferior lens - if any, let's better say "optical system" - will already act like a low pass filter and give you all the "benefits" you've listed above, w/o loosing speed and storage when scanning at high dpi figures. Just interpolate later if you're going to print big, you won't loose anything over scanning at high dpi. (Please note that this comment is limited to your your scanner/workflow only!) As an added bonus, you'll have more control over the interpolation process (where there are many different methods/software and working parameters), to better suit the particular image...

Do as however you feel comfortable...

Regards,
Loris.
 
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