"Extracting all information" is not a practical goal. I interpreted the OPs results as a confirmation that for 100% of my use cases 5000dpi is the practical ceiling. Everything above is just tech porn and has no practical value.As a side issue, or maybe it's really a central issue, the results in this thread should permanently put to rest the idea that once you get to 4000 ppi you have extracted all of the information the film can give.
As a side issue, or maybe it's really a central issue, the results in this thread should permanently put to rest the idea that once you get to 4000 ppi you have extracted all of the information the film can give.
While 5000ppi is the holy grail for the normies, we still can't easily get it for medium and large formats.
Apropos of which, the attached images are crops from "scans" of a Tri-X negative that I made with, respectively, the Nikon 9000 I used to own, a Fujifilm GFX 100S in single-shot mode (100 MP), and a Fujifilm GFX 100S in pixel-shift multishot mode (400 MP). Lens used with the GFX was the 75mm Apo-Rodagon-D 1:1.
"Extracting all information" is not a practical goal. I interpreted the OPs results as a confirmation that for 100% of my use cases 5000dpi is the practical ceiling. Everything above is just tech porn and has no practical value.
… I still applaud the OP for building his machine. While 5000ppi is the holy grail for the normies, we still can't easily get it for medium and large formats.
there is a copy stand scanning solution from PhaseOne, which sells around 100'000EUR, and it doesn't reach 10'000ppi (to be fair it's designed more for versatility in mind than highest resolution)
the 75mm Apo-Rodagon-D unfortunately is a rather poor lens and will not get you much over 6000ppi no matter what resolution the sensor has
GFX is a good platform for scanning film, but it's undermined by having to adapt last century manual focus lenses. I am waiting for Fujifilm to release a 1:1 autofocus macro for the GF mount.
that's an interesting question. what I've found is that the appearance of the grain in films depends on a lot of factors...
for example, even on fully analog prints, grain will look different on different print sizes, different enlargers (condenser vs diffusor box) and to some extent even on different papers.
or for film scans, it will look different when viewed on an older 96ppi screen or a newer retina screens, or when printed on a lightjet or on a inkjet.
with scans, the tricky bit is to differentiate which details are coming from the film itself, and which are from the scanning method, ie noise, aliasing, synthetic pixel pattern.
as an example:
I scanned with an Epson V850 for a long time, which has quite soft optics, so scanning higher than 2400ppi didn't give me any more detail of the image, but it introduces a small synthetic pixel pattern that could be mistaken for image detail because it looked less soft.
similarly, drum scanners add quite a bit of noise that people often mistake for grain texture.
and the Imacon/Hasselblad scanners are very good at assembling the pixels so that the grain looks sharp and detailed, but it's quite edgy and not really the original shape of the grain.
in the examples of the T-Max 100 and Delta 100 scans above, if you open the images in a software that allows you to view them at 100%, you will see the true grain structure with practically zero noise or synthetic digital pixel pattern at this specific resolution.
there will always be some aliasing in any digitally sampled image (or sound for that matter), but if the frequency is high enough it's not going to be visible (that's the concept of oversampling).
I'll see that I can scan a detail in 20'000 and 40'000ppi next time I've set up the system for that resolution (takes quite a bit of time to adjust). at 40'000ppi the grain in many films (specially grainy color negative) starts to become less defined and more like clouds, so while we could say that is the "true" shape of grain, it's not how we usually perceive it (those who have seen images of films under a microscope will know what I mean).
This is thread is gold! Fantastic setup and results.
It also tell us that getting 8000 dpi is not as difficult as some try to make it sound in this thread.
If a relatively inexpensive microscope lens can do it, it’s possible by other means
it it were easy then an affordable scanner would already exist
a inexpensive microscope lens is usually only sharp in the center, not terribly convenient for a system where corner to corner sharpness is desirable. also, flatness of the film becomes an issue because the depth of field becomes quite small at 8000ppi and tiny if you go over 10'000ppi.
edit:
posted posted some images but need to double check the film emulsion tomorrow to make sure I didn't confuse things.
Have you ever compared it to the Apollon 14k scan service from Silbersalz?
that's unfortunately rather unlikely...
just the bare parts needed to build it cost around 50'000 euros. If I would factor in R&D, assembly, polishing up the software, warranty, training and support and still be able to pay rent, I'd probably have to charge a fortune for it :/
besides, it would turn into a manufacturing/sales business, which I'm not very good at. I enjoy the process of making really nice scans of good images much more.
btw, I just read through your comparison of the X5/IQ3/A7RIV at:
Comparing Imacon X5, Creo iQ3 and Sony A7R IV scans
This thread is derived from this one, where I was comparing the ease of inverting color using camera and Imacon scans. Some of you have asked to see the full-sized crops to evaluate the available resolution. WARNING: I am not a resolution aficionado. Back in my digital days I never felt the...www.photrio.com
shipping over the atlantic is always a hassle, but if you're interested feel welcome to send me your negatives and I'll run it through my dokko scanner.
yes, that's what I'm doing. mainly scanning for exhibitions of photographers and artists.Maybe you can set up a low volume scanning service.
Amazing results you are getting from your scanner! I appreciate you sharing here.yes, that's what I'm doing. mainly scanning for exhibitions of photographers and artists.
I scanned the negative on a Imacon 848 yesterday. I scanned it three times at the same resolution as 3f and exported with identical settings. three passes in order to show the problems with distortions and focus. I also exported as RGB to show problems with color fringing.
I then upscaled and tried to match the images as well as time allowed.
here some gif animations of the results, as always, best to open in a new browser tab to view larger:
I also did a pass on an epson V850 at 2400ppi
if anybody is interested in looking at the original unprocessed 3f scans send me a message and I'll send a link.
To my eyes, the scans from your dokkoscan clearly capture more detail and sharper, but the "graininess" is also much more apparent in featureless parts of the image. Presumably you have either not sharpened the images you have posted here, or have applied the same sharpening to all?
I already know Imacon scanners aren't that impressive.
well, I find drum scanners not that impressive either - I mean, they were 20 years ago, but it's not too surprising that they don't hold up to the possibilities to todays technology since they never got updated.
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