• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Revolutionary Tool for Loading 120 on Jobo Plastic Reels

Valencia

A
Valencia

  • 0
  • 0
  • 14
Tied to the dock

D
Tied to the dock

  • 4
  • 0
  • 77

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
203,086
Messages
2,849,675
Members
101,652
Latest member
Mayorbeez
Recent bookmarks
0

Snip?


  • Total voters
    13

mshchem

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
16,773
Location
Iowa City, Iowa USA
Format
Medium Format
OK, maybe revolutionary is too much. Everyone who's ever loaded 120 film onto a plastic reel has occasionally come upon a stubborn film.
With Jobo especially, "the art of the snips" is of great importance. You need to snip the corners of the leading edge of the 120, (and 35mm) so the film feeds smooth without snagging.
The best snip is a tiny slightly rounded snip. Too big and it makes matters worse.
This leads to old corner rounders for wallet prints for when people actually carried pictures, in their wallets of all places. Pictured below revolutionary tool for snipping tiny round corners. This is the greatest thing since Spenco gel saddles on mountain bikes. Use only the smallest setting makes about a 16th of an inch round snip.
20200425_165844_1587855818593_resized.jpg
 
For some reason, I always had trouble loading reels until I stopped using the advice to snip the corners. But it seems snipping benefits most people.
 
I’ve never snipped and have loaded 120 and 220 film onto JOBO reels for 25 years without issue, one thing to note is that the reels must be perfectly dry. You do realise that the depressions on the side of the reels are to grab the film, they are a bit different to a Patterson reel in the way they load.
 
Anti-snippers! I've never snipped until 7 or 8 years back when I fell into the Jobo craze. I used Paterson reels since they first became available in the US in the early 70's. Love at first use. I could load 35mm and 120 no problem.

I'm 63, I've had some loss of feeling in my hands. So I'm after any help I can get. I loaded 1500 series reels today, one I put 2 rolls of 120 on one reel, the other was 2 reels each with one 120 roll on each reel.
I got lazy and didn't use my little rounder, snipped a tiny bit, per Jobo's recommendation, I fought it a little but I got the first 2 films on a single reel. When I started on the 3rd film, I tried for 3 or 4 minutes. Finally got out my little tool. The film slid right on the reel. Like magic, same with the last film.

The film I was using was Kodak TMY expires May of this year. Sitting for a time may be part of the issue.

The other thing may be my wierd method of always starting with the un-taped end. This maybe the root cause. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the un-taped end is closer to the spool and probably has more of a set, (curvature) of the film.

Maybe threading the taped end in first is the answer???.
 
Maybe threading the taped end in first is the answer???.
I fold the tape over - it stiffens the leading edge, which makes loading easier for me.
 
A dry reel is imperative. In a changing bag, I use disposable gloves, especially when temperatures are high. I store the bag inside out to get rid of any moisture after use. This also helps in avoiding fingerprints on the film.
For 35 mm reels I found that a little graphite (from a soft pencil) does wonders too, especially when the reel is old and has silver residue in the grooves. Just draw the pencil back and forth one or two times in the grooves.
 
I like the graphite lubrication tip, I'm going to give that a try one day.

I'm also in the pro-snipping camp; really made life easier especially with 120, but also 135.
 
I have the luxury of having a permanent room set up as a darkroom. I've never had to use a changing bag. Dry reels are an absolute necessity. The graphite tip is a great idea, it is amazing how effective just a tiny bit of lubrication helps.

My issue is that the leading comes out of groove. The snipping with the little rounder helps me a lot. I'm definitely going to try Matt's suggestion of folding the tape end over, see if the Jobo reels will tolerate it.

I also think my 40 year old habit of always starting with the un-taped end is part of the issue. The taped end has to has a lot less curl, this may be very helpful?

I have really been happy with this little tool.
Best Regards Mike
 
I also think my 40 year old habit of always starting with the un-taped end is part of the issue. The taped end has to has a lot less curl, this may be very helpful?

While it would be difficult for me to have 40 years experience in the darkroom... I also tend to start with the untaped end so will have a go with this as well.
 
I take it that there is no issue with snipping in daylight? I have always been worried that there is danger that the first frame is quite close and light may stray in?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
NO DAYLIGHT SNIPPING :cry:
These little tools have a built in guide. You just push the film in.

Obviously if what you are doing is working, carry on!

The flatness and lack of snagging on the leading edge is the issue.

That and following the instructions :smile:
 
Thanks It was just curiosity on my part. I had assumed that to be in any way accurate you had to snip in daylight, not realising that the snipper has a built in guide. Presumably after a bit of practice you can find the snipper in total darkness and feed the film in OK. Most of the time I use a Durst tank which comes with an attachment that fits on the reel through which you feed the film into the middle of the reel and push under a kind of sprung steel band. Once under the band the rest of the film winds on by turning the reel. Getting the film under the band completely straight requires a bit of concentration and "feel" but once in the rest is simple

I have loaded a Jobo reel as well with 120 and that hasn't been too bad either. A snipper, it seems, could improve things but I imagine that such things are not particularly cheap and until this thread I didn't even know such things existed

pentaxuser
 
I fold the tape over - it stiffens the leading edge, which makes loading easier for me.


Y*E*S!! That is what I do two. Sometimes I have to snip corners in the untapped end.
 
OK FOLKS TEST REPORT (NOT PEER REVIEWED! !)

The way I have been loading plastic reels for the last 40 years is wrong. For some reason I always felt that the tape end should be out. I think as a kid I feared carryover with color chemistry.

1. UNSNIPPED feeding TAPED END FIRST on Jobo. No problem, slid right on, normal occasional snag but it resolved in a second.

2. SNIPPED FEEDING TAPED END FIRST on Jobo reel, WOW the taped end has so much less curl the film stays in the channels. I could hold the reel and simply push the film on. I will no longer fear trying to put two films on a single 1500 series reel. This was the easiest I've ever had a Jobo reel. I could hold the film a rotate the reel, and the film just glided on. Didn't take 20 seconds. I am done complaining about Jobo reels. These are perfect.

3 FOLDING OVER THE TAPE END. I couldn't get the taped, folded end to start or feed on a Jobo reel. HOWEVER on a PATERSON reel it works BRILLIANTLY! I started the film effortlessly onto the Paterson reel, then pulled film past the steel balls. Then the classic Paterson ratcheting, film loaded perfectly. Easiest I've ever loaded 120 onto a Paterson reel!

So thanks to this forum, I re-thought what I was doing. The curl of the taped end is so much less than the spool end that the film stays in the reel channel. It's a dramatic difference. I wasted 2 (May 2020 expir. date) rolls of TMY 2. Best money I've ever spent.
 
Pictures show corner rounder snipping. Pictures show how much more curl there is at the taped end.
Thanks for the help!
Best Regards Mike
 
Just a FYI, I went to JoboUSA website it tells you to remove the film from the taped end, take fingernail clippers and nip 3mm off the corners, load film.

When all else fails READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! :smile::D:happy::laugh::redface:
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom