Your screwdriver primer should include what are the advantages and characteristics of JIS, versus Philips versus Posidrive cross-point drivers and when and why it matters.
And then we choose a project and implement it here together. The simpler, the better.
A good start might be for us to look at how to use a screwdriver well, how to solder, how to memorize the order in which parts are assembled, etc.
The more people participate, the more questions there are, the more productive for all. Everyone trains everyone else because everyone knows and can do something that the other doesn't yet know or can do.
The inhibition threshold must be lowered. That is the biggest obstacle to do own repairs.
Your screwdriver primer should include what are the advantages and characteristics of JIS, versus Philips versus Posidrive cross-point drivers and when and why it matters.
as well as someone who would be willing to work on glass, stop the little of fungus that's there. Clean as best as possible and maybe recement separating elements, I know it won't be perfect....
I got a set of the JIS screwdrivers about 18 months ago, plus a lockring spanner from China, and was able to remove the lens modules and clean a sticking iris on a Minolta 85mm f/1.7 . There was some very useful Youtube info on the 85mm ( was it you, Andreas ? ) . It was a very satisfying job.
A good explanation JIS - Phillips can be found here:
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). Does your Phillips screwdriver \"cam-out\" and damage screws? If so, it may NOT be a US Phillips® screw - it may be a Read morewww.vesseltools.com
I haven't seen Pozidriv screws in the Japanese cameras yet.
The difference between Pozidriv and Phillips is well explained here:
What Is Pozidriv? How Does It Differ From A Phillips Drive?
What is Pozidriv? There are an seemingly overwhelming amount of drive styles in the industry. Here's what you need to know about the Pozidriv.www.albanycountyfasteners.com
I'll look in Thomas Tomosy's Nikon Repair Book, maybe I'll find a hint and you can estimate whether DIY makes sense here.
There used to be a very active and useful internet forum where it was possible to search by camera make/model, type of fault, repair technique, etc.. That forum died some 10 - 12 years ago because of technical problems with the service provision. The information is (I believe) still up there but cannot be added to. If it could be linked to from a forum here it would be a very useful resource. Unfortunately I can't remember its name, so that's not much help!
On the other hand, if I had not intervened with the screwdriver, the camera and lenses graveyard here would be much larger.Home camera repairers are like incompetent surgeons, you only hear about their successes, they bury their failures.
I personally consider the cost of camera repairs when necessary as part of the expense of my photography, and over the the last forty years have spent comparatively little on them, however I don't believe that cameras, unlike cars require regular servicing.
The incompetent surgeons inspire me! I'm starting a thread about failures. You don't always learn how to make repairs painlessly
I have a nikon fm2 with a shutter that locks up(or sticks) if I switch it to B it releases, then I use the multiple exposure to not lose the frame. If it sits overnight it will lock like this, once freed it's good for the day. So I have a way around it, but I would like it to work.(I got it from KEH, and when I talked to them they don't do repairs...)
It seems like something under the bottom cover? But what I don't know.
Do you think I should attempt the repair myself, or is that an indicator of a total CLA?
The mirror mechanism has a few features that were new or unusual at the time the FM was produced, such as the pneumatic escape ment that slows down the mirror movement.
The second curtain brake is found at the bottom of the mirror box rather than in the shutter. If this brake is too tight or dry, even though the shutter runs off, the mirror may not reset and the wind lock may not clear.
To test this condition, lift the shutter curtain carefully with the tip of your tweezers, then let it go suddenly. If the mirror now resets, then the problem is as described. In this case, use black moly grease to lubricate the brake as well as the mirror latch claw.
The shutter is a mechanical Copal unit. I's mounted in the body casting— as in many other Nikon models-by three screws: two up top inside the body and one at the bottom from behind in the film chamber. It comes out clean.
As far as I'm concerned, quoting (within reasonable limits) with reference to source should always be OK.
Would this be it?
These aren't matters of personal preference, but rather, of picking drivers which best fit the screw heads. But having said that, no I do not own a full set of each type of tool: Often "pretty good fit" is all that's needed.Your screwdriver primer should include what are the advantages and characteristics of JIS, versus Philips versus Posidrive cross-point drivers and when and why it matters.
I found this reference at Tomosy. The assumption that the pneumatic escape delays processes could perhaps be applied to your problem?
<snip>
This thread got me wondering about a Pentax Spotmatic SP II I have with no rewinder and the film door stuck closed. I had given up on it, but watched a video yesterday which revealed that there are two screws under the leatherette that, when removed, will allow the door to open. Voila! It worked. Of course, there are other problems, but that's a start.
These aren't matters of personal preference, but rather, of picking drivers which best fit the screw heads. But having said that, no I do not own a full set of each type of tool: Often "pretty good fit" is all that's needed.
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