Your screwdriver primer should include what are the advantages and characteristics of JIS, versus Philips versus Posidrive cross-point drivers and when and why it matters.
Repairs: Do it yourself or have it done?
-
A
- Thread starter Andreas Thaler
- Start date
Recent Classifieds
-
For Sale Huge filter collection for sale!
- Started by Early Riser
-
For Sale FS: Yamasaki Tele-Congo 240mm f/6.3 Lens
- Started by B.S.Kumar
-
For Sale E6 and Color Chemicals, Stainless Steel Tanks Reels and film storage sleeves.
- Started by orbitaldebris
-
For Sale SILVESTRI RING N 1
- Started by Philippe-Georges
-
For Sale LINHOF AERO TECHNIKA 45 LENS COVER
- Started by Philippe-Georges
Forum statistics
Your screwdriver primer should include what are the advantages and characteristics of JIS, versus Philips versus Posidrive cross-point drivers and when and why it matters.
"Learn Camera Repair" is a good site and has lots of material like manuals, articles, diagrams, etc that can guide and teach those that learn well this way, IMO.
A good explanation JIS - Phillips can be found here:
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). Does your Phillips screwdriver \"cam-out\" and damage screws? If so, it may NOT be a US Phillips® screw - it may be a Read more
I haven't seen Pozidriv screws in the Japanese cameras yet.
The difference between Pozidriv and Phillips is well explained here:
What Is Pozidriv? How Does It Differ From A Phillips Drive?
What is Pozidriv? There are an seemingly overwhelming amount of drive styles in the industry. Here's what you need to know about the Pozidriv.
www.albanycountyfasteners.com
If the lens surface affected by the fungus is accessible, the fungus can be removed with hydrogen peroxide and then cleaning the remaining streaks.
If the fungus has already etched the glass, the only thing you can do after removing is have the lens polished. But this is only an option for expensive lenses where it is worth it.
This process worked for me on a Minolta 135/3.5 (II) with Fungus:
Hydrogen peroxide 3 % …
… wound spirit on lens cleaning paper …
… clean
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
I got a set of the JIS screwdrivers about 18 months ago, plus a lockring spanner from China, and was able to remove the lens modules and clean a sticking iris on a Minolta 85mm f/1.7 . There was some very useful Youtube info on the 85mm ( was it you, Andreas ? ) . It was a very satisfying job.
Great, congratulations!
I would only approach an 85/1.7 with hesitation. That's quite a chunk of glass, front and back.
No, I don't shoot videos, everything always has to be right, the reality here at home at the table is quite different ...
The 85/1.7 is relatively simple, the front & rear lens groups are intact and unscrew easily. The 58/1.2 is more difficult.
A good explanation JIS - Phillips can be found here:
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). Does your Phillips screwdriver \"cam-out\" and damage screws? If so, it may NOT be a US Phillips® screw - it may be a Read morewww.vesseltools.com
I haven't seen Pozidriv screws in the Japanese cameras yet.
The difference between Pozidriv and Phillips is well explained here:
What Is Pozidriv? How Does It Differ From A Phillips Drive?
What is Pozidriv? There are an seemingly overwhelming amount of drive styles in the industry. Here's what you need to know about the Pozidriv.www.albanycountyfasteners.com
I'd expect European cameras, kit would have either.
One comment, rife with pride is a German casting shade on JIS users, by saying in effect, ' '...our workers know how to not to strip a screw...'
LOL
Sorry, I didn't forget that, information about that will come tomorrow (CET).
There used to be a very active and useful internet forum where it was possible to search by camera make/model, type of fault, repair technique, etc.. That forum died some 10 - 12 years ago because of technical problems with the service provision. The information is (I believe) still up there but cannot be added to. If it could be linked to from a forum here it would be a very useful resource. Unfortunately I can't remember its name, so that's not much help! Thomas Tomosy's two books dealing with camera repairs in both general terms and with some model-specific details are worth reading and contain much useful information and advice. Also, Rick Oleson's website is worth a look and his CD-ROM here: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-27.html is a great resource.
Steve
Steve
We have to find this buried gold mine! Was this an English language forum?
Would this be it?
Home camera repairers are like incompetent surgeons, you only hear about their successes, they bury their failures.
I personally consider the cost of camera repairs when necessary as part of the expense of my photography, and over the the last forty years have spent comparatively little on them, however I don't believe that cameras, unlike cars require regular servicing.
I personally consider the cost of camera repairs when necessary as part of the expense of my photography, and over the the last forty years have spent comparatively little on them, however I don't believe that cameras, unlike cars require regular servicing.
On the other hand, if I had not intervened with the screwdriver, the camera and lenses graveyard here would be much larger.
That's right, cameras last a surprisingly long time and are not demanding. But it's the smaller, easy-to-repair problems that often occur. Here a switch no longer works reliably, there the measuring needle jumps around, or there an electrolytic capacitor gives up. My repair reports, for example, show what can happen to lenses.
And when a problem like this arises, do you want to pay for expensive repair hours when you can do it yourself, it's fun and you also learn something about the device in the process?
Last edited:
The incompetent surgeons inspire me! I'm starting a thread about failures. You don't always learn how to make repairs painlessly 
I am enjoying the passion I see in this thread 
I recently started getting my hands dirty with this. I definitely lean more on the incompetent part of the spectrum.
It is rewarding. in the past I brought items for repair for issues as banal as "focusing screen falling out", just out of reverential fear. Not going to happen anymore.
The things i did recently with some success are all relatively simple, but I am getting more daring and I have some bigger projects ahead. In short I am enjoying it quite a bit.
The dead bodies count is also not insignificant. Often it's a calculated risk (cheap practice bodies), but some errors are painful - and some are embarassing.
I recently started getting my hands dirty with this. I definitely lean more on the incompetent part of the spectrum.
It is rewarding. in the past I brought items for repair for issues as banal as "focusing screen falling out", just out of reverential fear. Not going to happen anymore.
The things i did recently with some success are all relatively simple, but I am getting more daring and I have some bigger projects ahead. In short I am enjoying it quite a bit.
The dead bodies count is also not insignificant. Often it's a calculated risk (cheap practice bodies), but some errors are painful - and some are embarassing.
The incompetent surgeons inspire me! I'm starting a thread about failures. You don't always learn how to make repairs painlessly
Failed repairs: Why did it go wrong and how to deal with it?
Another thread recently discussed, among other things, failed repair projects that no one hears about. Which is a shame, because you learn from mistakes, even if they hurt, and as a repairman you'd much rather report successes. So let's talk about what we failed to achieve with faulty cameras...
www.photrio.com
I found this reference at Tomosy. The assumption that the pneumatic escape delays processes could perhaps be applied to your problem?
Thomas Tomosy, Nikon Camera Repair Handbook
@koraks
Note: I am only quoting here because the book is out of stock.
As far as I'm concerned, quoting (within reasonable limits) with reference to source should always be OK.
Yes, that's the one! To reply to the OP's question, yes - it had to be an English language forum or I wouldn't have understood a word of it.
To reply to benjiboy's comment regarding home camera repairers and incompetent surgeons, was it Clint Eastwood who said in one of his films "A man should know his limitations." I think that's the secret of home camera repairs. That said, some years ago I sent a Pentax MX to be repaired professionally and it was returned with the fault still present and a wire poking out from under the top plate. Later, my K2 was worked on by a well-known repairer (at considerable expense) who fixed the original fault but introduced another. Those two instances set me thinking. I was a communications engineer by profession, so soldering and dealing with small, fiddly things electronic or mechanical didn't bother me. The main requirements are time, good quality tools and patience - especially the last of those. Though I'm fortunate in having good eyesight, I find a large, illuminated lens (the type that is styled like an Anglepoise lamp) is invaluable.
Getting back to burying bodies, I can honestly say that I've never made any of my "patients" worse, though there are inevitably some whose ailments I've been unable to cure! Unlike some surgeons, I've never sewn up a photographic patient leaving a tool inside!
Steve
This thread got me wondering about a Pentax Spotmatic SP II I have with no rewinder and the film door stuck closed. I had given up on it, but watched a video yesterday which revealed that there are two screws under the leatherette that, when removed, will allow the door to open. Voila! It worked. Of course, there are other problems, but that's a start.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2015
- Messages
- 1,986
- Format
- Plastic Cameras
These aren't matters of personal preference, but rather, of picking drivers which best fit the screw heads. But having said that, no I do not own a full set of each type of tool: Often "pretty good fit" is all that's needed.
Thanks
Last edited by a moderator:
There's an easier way than that. A stiff piece of wire or a small thin nail with the end turned over (think of a small crochet needle) can be inserted down through the rewind crank hole, held to one side and then gently pulled upwards releasing the back catch. Working on 35mm Pentaxes, the rewind crank usually has to be removed before the top plate can be lifted off. If the back cover is closed and the rewind spindle ends up plopping inside the camera, which it often does sooner or later, then the ability to open the back easily is very welcome. Attached is a picture of the tool I made for the job. Apologies for the grimy thumbnail - a leftover from replacing the car gearbox seal yesterday!
Steve
Attachments
I decided the must haves in JIS were the 0, 00, 000, 0000, so far only about 3/4" - 1" shafts, as well as the first 6 mm in both Wera and Wiha, the fractions between and, most importantly, the shaft lengths, as needed.
Most folks buy short shafter "jeweler's screwdrivers, but a number of screws are deeper in the camera, and that short shafted driver is never going to reach them.
Longer shaft JIS drivers have been difficult to find, especially in the "Vessel" tools, so you might as well start looking now.
Wera and Wiha drivers in longer shafts are out there, but again, you'll have to do some hunting if you want to stay within a particular line or tools, so look at all the sales notices you can, as I did/do and get them on sale at reduced prices.
You might think that the flats in the two European drivers would also be the same thickness, but between Wera and Wiha, I found I needed a thinner blade for several cameras.
I do have several brands I look for, but in the end it can be like with cameras, ego brands do exist, when a common maker sells at much lower price, the same quality drivers.
Last edited:
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:  |