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Reconditioning old leather camera straps

Wilhelmine

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Wilhelmine

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Apologise me for repeating my self (continuously) but I would like to suggest Ballistol (yes again)...
This (gun-) oil was invented in 1905 (for the Imperial army) at the time that leather, wood and iron (and horses) where in common use and needing intense maintenance to preserve these.
Soldiers used it to keep themselves and their animals in good shape and their gear working, in the most precaire situations.

But, it wouldn't repair nor recondition that old camera strap, it's too late now, but, it might have preserved and protected it against becoming brittle.

It's good for rubber, leatherette (vinyl) and vulcanite too, not to mention (fine-) mechanics...

Apply Ballistol sparingly, rub it in, wipe the eventual excess off and let it dry.
 
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Apologise me for repeating my self (continuously) but I would like to suggest Ballistol (yes again)...
This (gun-) oil was invented in 1905 (for the Imperial army) at the time that leather, wood and iron (and horses) where in common use and needing intense maintenance to preserve these.
Soldiers used it to keep themselves and their animals in good shape and their gear working, in the most precaire situations.

But, it wouldn't repair nor recondition that old camera strap, it's too late now, but, it might have preserved and protected it against becoming brittle.

It's good for rubber, leatherette (vinyl) and vulcanite too, not to mention (fine-) mechanics...

There are a lot of uses for it aside from what you’d normally think to use it for. I’ve even heard it’s safe to drink.

I dilute it to make “mouse milk” and put it in a pump spray bottle. I also keep some full strength in a needle bottle.

I use it on my cameras, too. Inside and out. After cleaning the sticky parts on my N80’s with alcohol, I applied a light coat of Ballistol. Worked great.
 
There are a lot of uses for it aside from what you’d normally think to use it for. I’ve even heard it’s safe to drink.

I dilute it to make “mouse milk” and put it in a pump spray bottle. I also keep some full strength in a needle bottle.

I use it on my cameras, too. Inside and out. After cleaning the sticky parts on my N80’s with alcohol, I applied a light coat of Ballistol. Worked great.

It deters insects too (and mitigates their bites too), protects against frostbite (not fully) and burning sun...
 
Hmm I have Ballistol
Apologise me for repeating my self (continuously) but I would like to suggest Ballistol (yes again)...
This (gun-) oil was invented in 1905 (for the Imperial army) at the time that leather, wood and iron (and horses) where in common use and needing intense maintenance to preserve these.
Soldiers used it to keep themselves and their animals in good shape and their gear working, in the most precaire situations.

But, it wouldn't repair nor recondition that old camera strap, it's too late now, but, it might have preserved and protected it against becoming brittle.

It's good for rubber, leatherette (vinyl) and vulcanite too, not to mention (fine-) mechanics...

Apply Ballistol sparingly, rub it in, wipe the eventual excess off and let it dry.

The German Imperial that is. According to the German Wikipedia page, Ballistol is indeed food-safe in accordance with German food safety legislation.
 
Never heard of that Ballistol before. Interesting.

Years ago I had some dry leather golf grips from probably the 50s and wanted to recondition them. Someone suggested Cod Liver Oil. Slathered it on and let it soak in for days. Worked great. Just throwing that out there. Won't help worn out straps though.

I've found for straps Buffalo leather makes the best ones. Nice and supple and really strong.
 
I've found for straps Buffalo leather makes the best ones. Nice and supple and really strong.
If you can get your hands on Kangaroo hide, it's even tougher as it's used mainly for making whips.

But for dried leather that's a bit too far gone, the only thing to do if you want to keep it is run a stitch along the sides. If the leather lets go, you at least have the thread left to prevent the camera from smashing to the ground.
 
If you can get your hands on Kangaroo hide, it's even tougher as it's used mainly for making whips.

But for dried leather that's a bit too far gone, the only thing to do if you want to keep it is run a stitch along the sides. If the leather lets go, you at least have the thread left to prevent the camera from smashing to the ground.

Harry Benz makes great straps from waterbuffalo hide. The rough side grips very well and doesn't get slick like calf or cowhide.
Kangaroo is beautiful stuff. Relatively thin but strong. But it is expensive and hard to come by outside Oz. I got some from Jo Brooks ( little satchel on Facebook) in Victoria Aus. I've made straps for a Leica CL, M4 and a Rolleiflex. beautiful stuff.
IMG_5045.jpg
 
If you can get your hands on Kangaroo hide, it's even tougher as it's used mainly for making whips.

But for dried leather that's a bit too far gone, the only thing to do if you want to keep it is run a stitch along the sides. If the leather lets go, you at least have the thread left to prevent the camera from smashing to the ground.

It’s also possible to glue a thin strap of nylon to the back of the leather (off white looks good in the case of vintage straps).
 
Quite a few of my older cameras with cases have straps that are very dry and flakey in places. Is there anything you can do to recondition these/ensure they'll be less likely to snap?

Thanks!

To me this just looks a bit flaky ie the surface dye has worn away. This is likely due to the leather drying out and not being conditioned regularly combined with a low quality leather. A good quality vegetable tanned leather will last decades if looked after properly!

Its probably too late now but, without properly inspecting the leather, I would say this leather can be restored. It would need re-conditioning and the surface would need dyeing again.

Either way, make sure to condition your leather straps a few times per year!
 
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